Not sure what I have here

[Vic103]

Ok guys I think I got a problem. I read that the minimum headspace from a SAAMI chart for a 9mm luger is .754 and the maximum is .776

So I made a plug (gage) the is exactly .776 when I put it in the chamber toggle will close you can feel a tiny tiny bit of resistance, but it difinitely does close. If this is no good I'm screwed because there is no way I can take .050 off the barrel sholder (one complete revolution) the shoulder would be gone.

Man I am bumming out. I guess what I am asking can sombody measure their nogo gage and post the size for me....Thanks!!

Sooner the better it's like ruining my day. Thanks again!

[alanint]

Can you deepen the chamber throat by the amount needed?

[Vic103]

I think my chamber is already too deep. Well at least just a couple thousands less than the maximum (.776) it's probely something like .773

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by Vic103

I think my chamber is already too deep. Well at least just a couple thousands less than the maximum (.776) it's probely something like .773

By my [marginal] math skills, that gives you .019" of head space...IMHO, that's not bad for a military pistol...

By comparison, both my P38's have much more...One is right at .036"...And functions fine...

And, FWIW, you can make your own 'headspace gauges' out of plastic shim stock, cut out with a hole punch, and stacked on top of a dummy cartridge (or empty case)...

And if you want to deepen or cut a new chamber, 9mm Parabellum/Luger reamers are available for rent...(Do a Search here; there's two places that rent them quite reasonably)...

And if you reload, a too-deep chamber is still not a problem...Longer brass is available...Which can be sized to fit a too-long chamber...(A quick check shows 38 ACP/38 Super brass can be trimmed down & fire-formed to 9mm)...

Don't worry...be happy!!!

[sheepherder]

BTW, excellent looking barrel vise...How did you bore (or ream?) the taper???

[Vic103]

Thank you postino for helping me get my balls out of my purse...haha. After reading your post, it made me say" just go shoot the dam thing". Quit freaking out and shoot it.

I went to the range and put 50 rounds through it without one single FTF or FTE. Man.........am I happy!!! My accuracy wasn't too bad, but then again I suck shooting pistols. Give me my AR15 whth my Eotech and bi-pod and I'm a lot better...heh. All in all though not too bad.

I picked up some of my brass to see if there was any bulging, splittiing, or anything wierd looking. Also I measured them for stretch. All looked good.

Fireing pin strikes:



Spent brass:



All checked and cleaned:

BTW, excellent looking barrel vise...How did you bore (or ream?) the taper???

I took the barrel and put a 1 inch peice of tape on it and measured the diameter on each side of the tape. Did the trig and figured the barrel was on about a 1.14 degree angle, a 2.3 degree included angle. All I had was a 2 degree end mill in my tool box so I plunged it through the block then split the block and used my had grinder to spot it in. Oh yeah.....before I split the block I tapped and reamed two holes so I could use sholder bolts to locate and lock the block together once split.

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by Vic103

Fireing pin strikes:

Nice deep indents. No spring problems there.

I took the barrel and put a 1 inch peice of tape on it and measured the diameter on each side of the tape. Did the trig and figured the barrel was on about a 1.14 degree angle, a 2.3 degree included angle. All I had was a 2 degree end mill in my tool box so I plunged it through the block then split the block and used my had grinder to spot it in. Oh yeah.....before I split the block I tapped and reamed two holes so I could use sholder bolts to locate and lock the block together once split.

Outstanding!

I need to order either a tapered reamer or tapered end mill for future use. I have been using my barrel vise inserts in my lathe to hold barrel blanks while I chamber them...I need something better...