G Luger re-straw ? - Page 2

Bill Sipple · 01-23-2015, 11:21 AM

OK I've successfully re-strawed the pieces that were originally done this way. Ready to re-assemble, but I can find no indication on assembly lubricants. I have an old Luger manual reprint which doesn't even mention oils. I know that too much, in the wrong place, is a disaster.
So what is the consensus from the experts ? Type of oil, and where to use ?
Thanks

DavidJayUden · 01-23-2015, 12:41 PM

You're never going to get a consensus from the experts on oil, whether discussing Gran Prix cars, sport bikes or Lugers. But just to get you going I'd recommend wiping all the metal with an oily rag and putting a drop or 3 on the actual metal-on-metal friction points. Don't oil soak the grips.
We used to joke that if you had gun oil dripping from your glasses after shooting your 1911, that was just about right. But we may have been taking it too far.
dju

Sergio Natali · 01-23-2015, 01:32 PM

I've never shot my C96s at the range, so when I occasionally get them out of the safe I just wipe them with oil and I put one drop of Ballistol on friction points.

With CZ, GLOCK, and the 1911 that I use at the range I dab a bit of Tetra Gun Grease on the main friction points and outside the barrel.

Sergio

lugerholsterrepair · 01-23-2015, 01:37 PM

I put a dozen drops of 3&1 sewing machine oil on a shaving brush to generally oil parts. On the underside friction parts, rails and such I smear on a little white lithium grease if I intend to shoot it. I don't think it takes a miracle oil..just a good oil often. Once the weapon is assembled I wipe it down lightly with a rag.

rhuff · 01-23-2015, 03:45 PM

I use a light grease(TW25b) on the bbl. extension and toggle train where they interface, and then a good gun oil to the other friction points where steel meets steel. A wipe-down with a silicone oil lambs wool pad to the exterior......works for me and all of my guns.

01-23-2015, 01:32 PM	#23
Sergio Natali User Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Somewhere in Northern Italy Posts: 2,646 Thanks: 1,082 Thanked 1,783 Times in 1,007 Posts	I've never shot my C96s at the range, so when I occasionally get them out of the safe I just wipe them with oil and I put one drop of Ballistol on friction points. With CZ, GLOCK, and the 1911 that I use at the range I dab a bit of Tetra Gun Grease on the main friction points and outside the barrel. Sergio __________________ "Originality can't be restored and should be at the top of any collector's priority list.

01-23-2015, 01:37 PM	#24
lugerholsterrepair Moderator Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Arizona/Colorado Posts: 7,761 Thanks: 4,863 Thanked 3,101 Times in 1,427 Posts	I put a dozen drops of 3&1 sewing machine oil on a shaving brush to generally oil parts. On the underside friction parts, rails and such I smear on a little white lithium grease if I intend to shoot it. I don't think it takes a miracle oil..just a good oil often. Once the weapon is assembled I wipe it down lightly with a rag. __________________ Jerry Burney 11491 S. Guadalupe Drive Yuma AZ 85367-6182 lugerholsterrepair@earthlink.net 928 342-7583 (CO & AZ) Year Round 719 207-3331 (cell) "For those who Fight For It, Life has a flavor the protected will never know."

01-23-2015, 11:21 AM	#21
Bill Sipple User Join Date: Jan 2015 Posts: 11 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	OK I've successfully re-strawed the pieces that were originally done this way. Ready to re-assemble, but I can find no indication on assembly lubricants. I have an old Luger manual reprint which doesn't even mention oils. I know that too much, in the wrong place, is a disaster. So what is the consensus from the experts ? Type of oil, and where to use ? Thanks

01-23-2015, 12:41 PM	#22
DavidJayUden Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 4,047 Thanks: 578 Thanked 1,414 Times in 887 Posts	You're never going to get a consensus from the experts on oil, whether discussing Gran Prix cars, sport bikes or Lugers. But just to get you going I'd recommend wiping all the metal with an oily rag and putting a drop or 3 on the actual metal-on-metal friction points. Don't oil soak the grips. We used to joke that if you had gun oil dripping from your glasses after shooting your 1911, that was just about right. But we may have been taking it too far. dju

01-23-2015, 03:45 PM	#25
rhuff Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Az. Posts: 2,272 Thanks: 2,692 Thanked 959 Times in 705 Posts	I use a light grease(TW25b) on the bbl. extension and toggle train where they interface, and then a good gun oil to the other friction points where steel meets steel. A wipe-down with a silicone oil lambs wool pad to the exterior......works for me and all of my guns.