Barrel Blocks & Receiver Wrench

Bob in AZ · 06-07-2002, 12:42 PM

I would like to make up a set of Luger barrel blocks and a receiver wrench. While at GT yesterday we were discussing what it would take to change a barrel on a Luger. I'm NOT looking to go in the business of changing barrels, just for my own guns. Well maybe a close friend in need.
Being a Toolmaker for some 20+ years I know I can make the tools to do this. The problem is I have never seen a actual set of barrel blocks and receiver wrench for a Luger. I realize most of these tools are hand made and probable vary somewhat.
I have a basic idea and would really appreciate hearing from those who have a set of these tools. (scan pics, dimentions, etc). I'm also very interested in how you protect the barrel in your blocks. If you feel like you are giving away your trade secrets please e-mail me. Again these tools are for my own use. I'm not looking to cut in on someone livelihood. I just like to do my own work and enjoy the challenge. We machinist type aren't happen unless we are making something....
Thanks Bob [img]confused.gif[/img]

John Sabato · 06-07-2002, 02:29 PM

hey Bob,

so a search on the old board for "wrench" since I know a discussion about this has already taken place and much advice was posted...'

Hugh Clark, Art Buchanan and Tom Heller are the only folks that I personally know that can change barrels without marring the receiver or new barrel... maybe one of them would be kind enough to post a photo of what the wrenches look like.

Thor might have that capability but I am not sure...

Hugh · 06-16-2002, 11:13 PM

I have found that before trying to remove a Luger bbl, it is best to give the threads a good soaking with a penetrating oil (Kroil works best for me) for 24 hrs, then put in the freezer overnight. The cold makes the steel contract and helps to break the seal between the bbl threads and the reciever threads. <img src="graemlins/r.gif" border="0" alt="[king]" />

ViggoG · 07-01-2002, 01:48 AM

Rick W,
<img src="graemlins/soapbox.gif" border="0" alt="[soapbox]" />
I thought that some of the readers might not know that 7076-T6 Aluminum Alloy is one of the few Aluminum Alloys that when fully hardned will dent almost all of the low carbon steels.
And that it is classed as a Precipitation Hardening Alloys. That is to say to anneal these alloys you heat them to a predetermined temprature and quench them in water.
The distributes the hardening elements of the alloy evenly ansd results in the softest state.
Hardening is a condition of precipitation of these elements into crystals in the molecular structure and in essence keys these molecules togather.
This process of hardening is automatic and takes place over time without interuption.
Gripping Blocks are best made of annealed 6061 alloy which is much more ductile and less apt to damage a precision surface. <img src="graemlins/soapbox.gif" border="0" alt="[soapbox]" />
Sorry for the long winded dissertation.
now i'll jus git ofn my sopebox n'n hid <img src="graemlins/icon107.gif" border="0" alt="[icon107]" />
ViggoG

wterrell · 07-01-2002, 06:49 PM

Rick,
I prefer yellow brass.

ViggoG · 07-02-2002, 03:27 PM

Wes,
You are correct, Brass is the preferred material.
However Babbit was and still is the best when the surface cannot be easily fitted by other means.
Also as pointed out by Rick "The price makes the difference"
>>>
Rick,
You have the right idea, Blocks can be bored using the barrel as a template.
The barrel must be mounted opposite the operator ,fastened ridgedly to the lathe bed,
and the lathe tool cuts upside down on the opposite side from the operator , while following the curve on the opposite side of the barrel with a dial indicator. Manually keeping the indicator on "O" as close as possible.
With practice, One soon becomes quite adept at this method of contour cutting.
ViggoG

06-07-2002, 12:42 PM	#1
Bob in AZ User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Arizona Posts: 66 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Barrel Blocks & Receiver Wrench I would like to make up a set of Luger barrel blocks and a receiver wrench. While at GT yesterday we were discussing what it would take to change a barrel on a Luger. I'm NOT looking to go in the business of changing barrels, just for my own guns. Well maybe a close friend in need. Being a Toolmaker for some 20+ years I know I can make the tools to do this. The problem is I have never seen a actual set of barrel blocks and receiver wrench for a Luger. I realize most of these tools are hand made and probable vary somewhat. I have a basic idea and would really appreciate hearing from those who have a set of these tools. (scan pics, dimentions, etc). I'm also very interested in how you protect the barrel in your blocks. If you feel like you are giving away your trade secrets please e-mail me. Again these tools are for my own use. I'm not looking to cut in on someone livelihood. I just like to do my own work and enjoy the challenge. We machinist type aren't happen unless we are making something.... Thanks Bob [img]confused.gif[/img]

06-07-2002, 02:29 PM	#2
John Sabato Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: The Capital of the Free World Posts: 10,150 Thanks: 3,003 Thanked 2,304 Times in 1,096 Posts	hey Bob, so a search on the old board for "wrench" since I know a discussion about this has already taken place and much advice was posted...' Hugh Clark, Art Buchanan and Tom Heller are the only folks that I personally know that can change barrels without marring the receiver or new barrel... maybe one of them would be kind enough to post a photo of what the wrenches look like. Thor might have that capability but I am not sure... __________________ regards, -John S "...We hold these truths to be self-evident that ALL men are created EQUAL *and are endowed by their Creator* with certain UNALIENABLE* rights, and among these are life, LIBERTY, and the pursuit of happiness..."*

06-16-2002, 11:13 PM	#3
Hugh RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Southeast Texas Swamp Posts: 2,460 Thanks: 2 Thanked 165 Times in 64 Posts	I have found that before trying to remove a Luger bbl, it is best to give the threads a good soaking with a penetrating oil (Kroil works best for me) for 24 hrs, then put in the freezer overnight. The cold makes the steel contract and helps to break the seal between the bbl threads and the reciever threads. <img src="graemlins/r.gif" border="0" alt="[king]" /> __________________ *TRUMP FOR PREZ IN '20!*

07-01-2002, 06:49 PM	#5
wterrell User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Colorado Posts: 1,096 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Rick, I prefer yellow brass. __________________ Noli me vocare, ego te vocabo, wes --------------------

07-01-2002, 01:48 AM	#4
ViggoG RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: South Side Virginia Posts: 534 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Rick W, <img src="graemlins/soapbox.gif" border="0" alt="[soapbox]" /> I thought that some of the readers might not know that 7076-T6 Aluminum Alloy is one of the few Aluminum Alloys that when fully hardned will dent almost all of the low carbon steels. And that it is classed as a Precipitation Hardening Alloys. That is to say to anneal these alloys you heat them to a predetermined temprature and quench them in water. The distributes the hardening elements of the alloy evenly ansd results in the softest state. Hardening is a condition of precipitation of these elements into crystals in the molecular structure and in essence keys these molecules togather. This process of hardening is automatic and takes place over time without interuption. Gripping Blocks are best made of annealed 6061 alloy which is much more ductile and less apt to damage a precision surface. <img src="graemlins/soapbox.gif" border="0" alt="[soapbox]" /> Sorry for the long winded dissertation. now i'll jus git ofn my sopebox n'n hid <img src="graemlins/icon107.gif" border="0" alt="[icon107]" /> ViggoG

07-02-2002, 03:27 PM	#6
ViggoG RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: South Side Virginia Posts: 534 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Wes, You are correct, Brass is the preferred material. However Babbit was and still is the best when the surface cannot be easily fitted by other means. Also as pointed out by Rick "The price makes the difference" >>> Rick, You have the right idea, Blocks can be bored using the barrel as a template. The barrel must be mounted opposite the operator ,fastened ridgedly to the lathe bed, and the lathe tool cuts upside down on the opposite side from the operator , while following the curve on the opposite side of the barrel with a dial indicator. Manually keeping the indicator on "O" as close as possible. With practice, One soon becomes quite adept at this method of contour cutting. ViggoG