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Unread 12-11-2016, 03:20 PM   #1
DocSkunk
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Default Picked this up the other night

I dont think i paid to much for it. My Second Luger. some rust issues these are pics from before i cleaned it. looks abit better now. Still want to get the rust off, not sure if i should though. still new. I know not to redo the pistol but this is neglect from the previous owner. Ill post of picture from after i cleaned it later on. Just warning it looks kinda bad. I am going to take it up to a local smith later on and see what he/she can do. I think there is some rust in the barrel but im not to sure. If i cant take it out so be it, but i do like shooting my 08. I think it has a repo case and stock not sure, stock dosnt lock to it.











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Unread 12-11-2016, 03:48 PM   #2
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Could you post some pics to see what it looks like now? I'm really curious!
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Unread 12-11-2016, 03:51 PM   #3
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Well, they all can't be minty. Use TLC on the clean up, kill the rust and it'll look much better. You've joined the "Rescued Luger Club".

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Unread 12-11-2016, 04:00 PM   #4
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Not much of a difference but feels better cleaned, and lubed up.



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Unread 12-11-2016, 04:50 PM   #5
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Hi, welcome to the forum and congratulations on your new Artillery LP08 Luger.

It would be wise to do what you can to stabilize the active rust and pitting areas.

Start with a good long oil soak. Take the grip panels off. First pics were of a very dry and oxidizing gun. The active brown oxide (rust) areas will continue to deteriorate the gun and do pitting damage. Do your best to remove it where it occurs without doing additional damage.

You can use well oiled 0000 grade steel wool to carefully remove the red oxide. Do it gently, take your time and do it by hand.

Someone has replaced your left grip screw with a non-standard screw. This screw uses a very unique thread called a Whitworth profile thread. It's possible that they stripped out the frame when they put the non-standard screw in. Take a good look at it if you can remove it and the grips. See if the other screw will fit into the hole and hold the grip properly. If so, get with someone like LugerDoc and get a proper replacement grip screw.
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Unread 12-11-2016, 04:52 PM   #6
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i would not normally advise it, - but you need to get a little more aggressive in dealing with the rust.

Remove the grips and soak the metal in penetrating oil for a start.
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Unread 12-11-2016, 04:58 PM   #7
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What kind of oil would you recommend to soak it in? ill pick up some 0000 steal wool.
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Unread 12-11-2016, 05:32 PM   #8
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Marc more than anyone knows his luger stuff. Where else can you find friends with great advice!!!Thank You My Friend!!!
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Unread 12-11-2016, 05:38 PM   #9
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i would be better if you paid for that wool....
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Unread 12-11-2016, 06:19 PM   #10
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Welcome, Doc. A low-viscosity petroleum product of any kind will do the job. PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, CRC all penetrate fine. Even plain old kerosene is just about as good. Don't get anything water-based near it, which risks actually harming the remaining blue. I'd go so far as to use an oiled toothbrush to get down into the pits, but change the solvent often, to avoid finish damage. Iron oxide is abrasive, and you don't want to rub the surface with it if it can be at all helped. You'll know when you're finished cleaning because all the red will be gone. That's the rust that is still active.

I seem to recall that 1916 DWM-made Artilleries are nowhere near as common as, say, the 1917s. Depending on what you have invested, it might be a case for restoration! Let's see what others say...
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Unread 12-11-2016, 06:43 PM   #11
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i know this isnt the smithing section and i can take this to that section if i have to no biggy. but anybody give me a tutorial on how i soak it, what do i take off(aside from the grips) should i not take this to a gunsmith to do? i really dont want to much it up. i paid $1100 for this and 800 for the 37 model.
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Unread 12-11-2016, 07:27 PM   #12
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I'm glad to see that artillery found a new home where it will find some love and care.
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Unread 12-11-2016, 09:16 PM   #13
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Be very wary of local gunsmiths because they may be great with Glocks but the vast majority don't know beans about Lugers. Any alterations from original, including refinishing, is a big decision not to be taken lightly. Personally I'd take both the '37 and the artillery apart and soak them, then go over each piece with a soft toothbrush with solvent and oil. Be cautious with steel wool. I know other members who know more suggest it, but go easy on the elbow grease. You do not want to fade the bluing.
Read up on how to safely remove the left grip panel. If you are not competent to disassemble/reassemble, check YouTube.
Anyway, welcome aboard. Guns like yours make great hands-on projects.
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Unread 12-11-2016, 10:20 PM   #14
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I have used steel wool numerous times, but always be careful. You can use balistol (SP) or other oils to help loosen up the rust. Even better than steel is bronze wool, its softer - but never use steel wool less than 0000 go easy and use oil.

If you feel that you are in over your head, then re-think about doing anything. You can go see your local gunsmith but be very specific what you want cleaned and how much.
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Unread 12-12-2016, 12:47 PM   #15
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DocS, Good luck removing those rusted in grip screws. You may want to have a competent gunsmith do that job for you, because if the top break off, he will have to "easy out" the threaded portion. I do have a couple of original grips screws in stock @$10 each or correct size, new repros @$5 each. On a rusty luger such as yours, I'd probably remove the grips, then soak it in paint thinner (cheap) completely disassembled. clean off rust with a steel brush (won't hurt the orig rust-blued finish) and do the finer removal with the steel wool. Once the rust is removed, the white bare metal will show thru and will need to be covered with either cold blue, grease or oil. It would take a talented restorer to properly weld up the deep pitting and rerust blue. at a cost of a $1,000 or more. I don't do refinishing, but if you just wanted it as a shooter, perhaps your local gunsmith can do a beadblast and hot dip blue for a lot less. This would be the quick & easy way to remove the active rust and prevent futher rusting. Good luck, Lugerdoc
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Unread 12-16-2016, 04:15 PM   #16
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to restore or not to restore. that is the question. I take it a 1916 isnt that rare so i may just make it a shooter. Reblue it and put some gold inlay on it and make a nice show piece/shooter. advice?
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Unread 12-16-2016, 07:24 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DocSkunk View Post
to restore or not to restore. that is the question. I take it a 1916 isnt that rare so i may just make it a shooter. Reblue it and put some gold inlay on it and make a nice show piece/shooter. advice?
I think I would leave it alone; why spend money on it ?

It will still be pitted, and bluing won't really improve it as a shooter; nor make it more valuable, IMO.

RE-bluing would kind of be like putting lipstick on a pig; enjoy it for what it is- it really does not look that bad.

Kill the rust and let her go.

The 1916 is the year with the third fewest production L P08 pistols; so while not scarce it is a "better" year!
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Unread 12-17-2016, 12:19 PM   #18
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Looks like a great pistol to restore - this is more of a project gun than a collectable, so enjoy it while you are cleaning it up. I would plan to have it refinished, as well.

I saw one like yours freshly blued, but heavily buffed, where the sharp edges were rubbed off and while it looked new, it was sad to see so much detail removed or damaged. Do, do it with care. It's worth the time.

Nice find !
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Unread 12-17-2016, 03:05 PM   #19
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I don't believe that I, personally, could leave that Luger as it is. I would do my best for a complete cleanup and then evaluate it at that time, but most likely would send it off for a quality refinish. After a refinish, it will still be a shooter, but one you can take pride of ownership in. This is a good project Luger that is not all that common.
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Unread 12-17-2016, 04:21 PM   #20
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I should have said "leave it alone" after cleaning and removing the rust; or just "it is not worth re-bluing in comparison of the cost to the benefit". Again JMO.

"Leave it alone" would include touch up of any bright areas with cold blue; I just can't see spending $250 to $500 to have it refinished.
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