my profile |
register |
faq |
search upload photo | donate | calendar |
12-11-2016, 04:20 PM | #1 |
User
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Northern Indiana
Posts: 25
Thanks: 5
Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
|
Picked this up the other night
I dont think i paid to much for it. My Second Luger. some rust issues these are pics from before i cleaned it. looks abit better now. Still want to get the rust off, not sure if i should though. still new. I know not to redo the pistol but this is neglect from the previous owner. Ill post of picture from after i cleaned it later on. Just warning it looks kinda bad. I am going to take it up to a local smith later on and see what he/she can do. I think there is some rust in the barrel but im not to sure. If i cant take it out so be it, but i do like shooting my 08. I think it has a repo case and stock not sure, stock dosnt lock to it.
|
12-11-2016, 04:48 PM | #2 |
User
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Venlo, the Netherlands
Posts: 350
Thanks: 160
Thanked 170 Times in 90 Posts
|
Could you post some pics to see what it looks like now? I'm really curious!
|
12-11-2016, 04:51 PM | #3 |
User
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Nampa, Idaho
Posts: 623
Thanks: 823
Thanked 930 Times in 363 Posts
|
Well, they all can't be minty. Use TLC on the clean up, kill the rust and it'll look much better. You've joined the "Rescued Luger Club".
G2 |
12-11-2016, 05:00 PM | #4 |
User
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Northern Indiana
Posts: 25
Thanks: 5
Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
|
|
12-11-2016, 05:50 PM | #5 |
Super Moderator - Patron
LugerForum Life Patron Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Eastern North Carolina, USA
Posts: 3,909
Thanks: 1,374
Thanked 3,110 Times in 1,510 Posts
|
Hi, welcome to the forum and congratulations on your new Artillery LP08 Luger.
It would be wise to do what you can to stabilize the active rust and pitting areas. Start with a good long oil soak. Take the grip panels off. First pics were of a very dry and oxidizing gun. The active brown oxide (rust) areas will continue to deteriorate the gun and do pitting damage. Do your best to remove it where it occurs without doing additional damage. You can use well oiled 0000 grade steel wool to carefully remove the red oxide. Do it gently, take your time and do it by hand. Someone has replaced your left grip screw with a non-standard screw. This screw uses a very unique thread called a Whitworth profile thread. It's possible that they stripped out the frame when they put the non-standard screw in. Take a good look at it if you can remove it and the grips. See if the other screw will fit into the hole and hold the grip properly. If so, get with someone like LugerDoc and get a proper replacement grip screw.
__________________
Igitur si vis pacem, para bellum - - Therefore if you want peace, prepare for war. |
12-11-2016, 05:52 PM | #6 |
User
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: near Charlotte NC
Posts: 4,681
Thanks: 1,441
Thanked 4,350 Times in 2,040 Posts
|
i would not normally advise it, - but you need to get a little more aggressive in dealing with the rust.
Remove the grips and soak the metal in penetrating oil for a start.
__________________
03man(Don Voigt); Luger student and collector. Looking for DWM side plate: 69 ; Dreyse 1907 pistol K.S. Gendarmerie |
The following 2 members says Thank You to DonVoigt for your post: |
12-11-2016, 05:58 PM | #7 |
User
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Northern Indiana
Posts: 25
Thanks: 5
Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
|
What kind of oil would you recommend to soak it in? ill pick up some 0000 steal wool.
|
12-11-2016, 06:32 PM | #8 |
Lifer
Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: PORT ST LUCIE, FLORIDA
Posts: 12,216
Thanks: 6,209
Thanked 4,133 Times in 2,173 Posts
|
Marc more than anyone knows his luger stuff. Where else can you find friends with great advice!!!Thank You My Friend!!!
|
The following member says Thank You to cirelaw for your post: |
12-11-2016, 06:38 PM | #9 |
Lifer X5
Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: texas
Posts: 708
Thanks: 87
Thanked 522 Times in 201 Posts
|
i would be better if you paid for that wool....
|
The following member says Thank You to tomaustin for your post: |
12-11-2016, 07:19 PM | #10 |
Twice a Lifer
Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Atop the highest hill in Schuyler County NY
Posts: 3,343
Thanks: 7,264
Thanked 2,576 Times in 1,364 Posts
|
Welcome, Doc. A low-viscosity petroleum product of any kind will do the job. PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, CRC all penetrate fine. Even plain old kerosene is just about as good. Don't get anything water-based near it, which risks actually harming the remaining blue. I'd go so far as to use an oiled toothbrush to get down into the pits, but change the solvent often, to avoid finish damage. Iron oxide is abrasive, and you don't want to rub the surface with it if it can be at all helped. You'll know when you're finished cleaning because all the red will be gone. That's the rust that is still active.
I seem to recall that 1916 DWM-made Artilleries are nowhere near as common as, say, the 1917s. Depending on what you have invested, it might be a case for restoration! Let's see what others say...
__________________
"... Liberty is the seed and soil, the air and light, the dew and rain of progress, love and joy."-- Robert Greene Ingersoll 1894 |
12-11-2016, 07:43 PM | #11 |
User
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Northern Indiana
Posts: 25
Thanks: 5
Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
|
i know this isnt the smithing section and i can take this to that section if i have to no biggy. but anybody give me a tutorial on how i soak it, what do i take off(aside from the grips) should i not take this to a gunsmith to do? i really dont want to much it up. i paid $1100 for this and 800 for the 37 model.
|
12-11-2016, 08:27 PM | #12 |
User
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Newburgh,IN
Posts: 790
Thanks: 393
Thanked 631 Times in 334 Posts
|
I'm glad to see that artillery found a new home where it will find some love and care.
__________________
“God created war so that Americans would learn geography.” ― Mark Twain |
12-11-2016, 10:16 PM | #13 |
Patron
LugerForum Patron Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 4,047
Thanks: 578
Thanked 1,414 Times in 887 Posts
|
Be very wary of local gunsmiths because they may be great with Glocks but the vast majority don't know beans about Lugers. Any alterations from original, including refinishing, is a big decision not to be taken lightly. Personally I'd take both the '37 and the artillery apart and soak them, then go over each piece with a soft toothbrush with solvent and oil. Be cautious with steel wool. I know other members who know more suggest it, but go easy on the elbow grease. You do not want to fade the bluing.
Read up on how to safely remove the left grip panel. If you are not competent to disassemble/reassemble, check YouTube. Anyway, welcome aboard. Guns like yours make great hands-on projects. dju |
12-11-2016, 11:20 PM | #14 |
Super Moderator
Eternal Lifer LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: North of Spokane, WA
Posts: 15,931
Thanks: 2,031
Thanked 4,527 Times in 2,090 Posts
|
I have used steel wool numerous times, but always be careful. You can use balistol (SP) or other oils to help loosen up the rust. Even better than steel is bronze wool, its softer - but never use steel wool less than 0000 go easy and use oil.
If you feel that you are in over your head, then re-think about doing anything. You can go see your local gunsmith but be very specific what you want cleaned and how much.
__________________
Edward Tinker ************ Co-Author of Police Lugers - Co-Author of Simson Lugers Author of Veteran Bring Backs Vol I, Vol II, Vol III and Vol IV |
12-12-2016, 01:47 PM | #15 |
Patron
LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: POB 398 St.Charles,MO. 63302
Posts: 5,089
Thanks: 6
Thanked 736 Times in 483 Posts
|
DocS, Good luck removing those rusted in grip screws. You may want to have a competent gunsmith do that job for you, because if the top break off, he will have to "easy out" the threaded portion. I do have a couple of original grips screws in stock @$10 each or correct size, new repros @$5 each. On a rusty luger such as yours, I'd probably remove the grips, then soak it in paint thinner (cheap) completely disassembled. clean off rust with a steel brush (won't hurt the orig rust-blued finish) and do the finer removal with the steel wool. Once the rust is removed, the white bare metal will show thru and will need to be covered with either cold blue, grease or oil. It would take a talented restorer to properly weld up the deep pitting and rerust blue. at a cost of a $1,000 or more. I don't do refinishing, but if you just wanted it as a shooter, perhaps your local gunsmith can do a beadblast and hot dip blue for a lot less. This would be the quick & easy way to remove the active rust and prevent futher rusting. Good luck, Lugerdoc
|
The following member says Thank You to Lugerdoc for your post: |
12-16-2016, 05:15 PM | #16 |
User
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Northern Indiana
Posts: 25
Thanks: 5
Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
|
to restore or not to restore. that is the question. I take it a 1916 isnt that rare so i may just make it a shooter. Reblue it and put some gold inlay on it and make a nice show piece/shooter. advice?
__________________
Just like a skunk, I spray and pray...with abit of aim. Hail Odin the All Father and Hail Tyr may they bless my weapons of war and keep my aim true. Looking for mag: SN 7887 SN 6728 Have: SN 1207 wood bottom. SN 6024 |
12-16-2016, 08:24 PM | #17 | |
User
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: near Charlotte NC
Posts: 4,681
Thanks: 1,441
Thanked 4,350 Times in 2,040 Posts
|
Quote:
It will still be pitted, and bluing won't really improve it as a shooter; nor make it more valuable, IMO. RE-bluing would kind of be like putting lipstick on a pig; enjoy it for what it is- it really does not look that bad. Kill the rust and let her go. The 1916 is the year with the third fewest production L P08 pistols; so while not scarce it is a "better" year!
__________________
03man(Don Voigt); Luger student and collector. Looking for DWM side plate: 69 ; Dreyse 1907 pistol K.S. Gendarmerie |
|
12-17-2016, 01:19 PM | #18 |
Lifer
Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 725
Thanks: 2,090
Thanked 606 Times in 327 Posts
|
Looks like a great pistol to restore - this is more of a project gun than a collectable, so enjoy it while you are cleaning it up. I would plan to have it refinished, as well.
I saw one like yours freshly blued, but heavily buffed, where the sharp edges were rubbed off and while it looked new, it was sad to see so much detail removed or damaged. Do, do it with care. It's worth the time. Nice find ! |
12-17-2016, 04:05 PM | #19 |
Patron
LugerForum Patron Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Az.
Posts: 2,291
Thanks: 2,709
Thanked 972 Times in 717 Posts
|
I don't believe that I, personally, could leave that Luger as it is. I would do my best for a complete cleanup and then evaluate it at that time, but most likely would send it off for a quality refinish. After a refinish, it will still be a shooter, but one you can take pride of ownership in. This is a good project Luger that is not all that common.
|
The following member says Thank You to rhuff for your post: |
12-17-2016, 05:21 PM | #20 |
User
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: near Charlotte NC
Posts: 4,681
Thanks: 1,441
Thanked 4,350 Times in 2,040 Posts
|
I should have said "leave it alone" after cleaning and removing the rust; or just "it is not worth re-bluing in comparison of the cost to the benefit". Again JMO.
"Leave it alone" would include touch up of any bright areas with cold blue; I just can't see spending $250 to $500 to have it refinished.
__________________
03man(Don Voigt); Luger student and collector. Looking for DWM side plate: 69 ; Dreyse 1907 pistol K.S. Gendarmerie |
|
|