1916 DWM Lp08

vroyce · 04-26-2006, 06:59 PM

Hi,

Just picked this 1916 DWM up from a friend/fellow collector a couple of days ago. It is only my second luger (have a byf 42) and have always wanted an artillery. I paid $2400 for it and wanted to ask the knowledgeable collectors here if that is about right for this one.

It is all matching (including grips and internals) except for the mag. It grades around 97-98%. No refinishing or touch ups.

Thanks!

vroyce

vroyce · 04-26-2006, 07:01 PM

1

vroyce · 04-26-2006, 07:08 PM

2

vroyce · 04-26-2006, 07:09 PM

3

vroyce · 04-26-2006, 07:10 PM

4

hqbmw · 04-26-2006, 07:43 PM

Vroyce,

Looks like a great find! The only thing I find better than looking at my Arty is shooting it at lonnnng range.

Now like me and my first Arty, you need to find a stock and holster rig. Take your time and keep looking and you will complete it and then you won't stop looking or shooting!

Enjoy it!

Jack Hiles
Mesa AZ

John Sabato · 04-26-2006, 09:50 PM

Looks like a REEEAAAALLLLY Nice one... Congrats!

grapppa · 04-27-2006, 03:34 PM

A very nice looking piece for sure. I was wondering though about the striations (straight lines) in the recessed area frame ears. Usually you see round milling marks.

vroyce · 04-27-2006, 03:41 PM

I see what you mean about the striations...at least some of it is gun oil after I wiped it down. Anyone else have an idea about this?

Thanks!

vroyce

George Anderson · 04-27-2006, 04:10 PM

Those striations are to be expected on all DWMs 1914-1917. The only examples that I have that lack them are reworks.

vroyce · 04-27-2006, 04:17 PM

Thanks for clarifying that George....after looking at a few more LP08 pics, I had begun to wonder that myself.

vroyce

grapppa · 04-27-2006, 08:55 PM

Thanks for the info George. Darn, I passed up a nice DWM artillery AND a Navy because I thought the striations were evidence of refinish. BUT - since I own a pristine 1916 DWM with them also I am a happy camper

Especially since I own another nice 1917 Erfurt that has miliing marks in that area -so my extensive WWI collection of two checks out. Still looking for the Arty and Navy for the old collection...

Big Norm · 04-28-2006, 02:13 AM

Vroyce,
nice artillery. The locking bolt looks nice and flat with chamfered edges and that tells me that there hasn't had any restrawing. Does your front sight have a serial number on it? I couldn't make out the serial number on the rear sights slider. I am still a little in shock at the prices of artilleries so I can't say anything about your price. But the guns a keeper. Nice going.
Big Norm

vroyce · 04-28-2006, 08:08 AM

Big Norm,

Thanks much for the positive comments. Here is the s.n. on the slider - 59, so it matches. I'll have to check the front site tonight when I get home. I am a novice on this so can you tell me again how to detect if a luger has been restrawed or is original. What are chamfered edges?

Thanks,

vroyce

vroyce · 04-28-2006, 08:36 PM

Big Norm,

Front site marked 59.

vroyce

Ron Smith · 04-28-2006, 08:43 PM

A very nice 1916. Congratulations!

Ron

Big Norm · 04-30-2006, 07:58 AM

Vroyce,
before a part is restrawed, there is a light surface of oxidized metal on that part that should be removed before applying the heat treatment required for the restrawing. This is called prepping. Real good restorers will have a way of removing this oxidized surface without resorting to sandpaper or a buffing wheel. An amateur will remove it by maybe using a wet/dry sandpaper or buffing wheel. But the Locking Bolt is small and difficult to hold steady. So the amatuer will customarily roll his wrist or the part while prepping it and round the small flat surface of this part and thus remove the beveled edges and flatness of surface that you see on your gun.

Very, very experienced Luger people tell me that they can look at the color of a strawed part and sometimes tell if the part has been restrawed. This must be done physically and can not be done by looking at a photograph. Personally, I can't do it consistently either way, so I resort to looking at the general condition of the part as well as the coloring.
Big Norm

04-26-2006, 06:59 PM	#1
vroyce User Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 51 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	1916 DWM Lp08 Hi, Just picked this 1916 DWM up from a friend/fellow collector a couple of days ago. It is only my second luger (have a byf 42) and have always wanted an artillery. I paid $2400 for it and wanted to ask the knowledgeable collectors here if that is about right for this one. It is all matching (including grips and internals) except for the mag. It grades around 97-98%. No refinishing or touch ups. Thanks! vroyce

04-26-2006, 07:43 PM	#6
hqbmw User Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Mesa AZ Posts: 228 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Vroyce, Looks like a great find! The only thing I find better than looking at my Arty is shooting it at lonnnng range. Now like me and my first Arty, you need to find a stock and holster rig. Take your time and keep looking and you will complete it and then you won't stop looking or shooting! Enjoy it! Jack Hiles Mesa AZ __________________ Jack Hiles Mesa AZ

04-26-2006, 09:50 PM	#7
John Sabato Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: The Capital of the Free World Posts: 10,150 Thanks: 3,003 Thanked 2,304 Times in 1,096 Posts	Looks like a REEEAAAALLLLY Nice one... Congrats! __________________ regards, -John S "...We hold these truths to be self-evident that ALL men are created EQUAL *and are endowed by their Creator* with certain UNALIENABLE* rights, and among these are life, LIBERTY, and the pursuit of happiness..."*

04-28-2006, 08:43 PM	#16
Ron Smith User Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Orygun Posts: 4,243 Thanks: 118 Thanked 245 Times in 150 Posts	A very nice 1916. Congratulations! Ron __________________ I Still Need DWM side plate #49... if anyone runs across a nice one. What ~Rudyard Kipling~ said...

04-26-2006, 07:01 PM	#2
vroyce User Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 51 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	1

04-26-2006, 07:08 PM	#3
vroyce User Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 51 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	2

04-26-2006, 07:09 PM	#4
vroyce User Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 51 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	3

04-26-2006, 07:10 PM	#5
vroyce User Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 51 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	4

04-27-2006, 03:34 PM	#8
grapppa User Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Hillsborough, NJ Posts: 147 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	A very nice looking piece for sure. I was wondering though about the striations (straight lines) in the recessed area frame ears. Usually you see round milling marks.

04-27-2006, 03:41 PM	#9
vroyce User Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 51 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	I see what you mean about the striations...at least some of it is gun oil after I wiped it down. Anyone else have an idea about this? Thanks! vroyce

04-27-2006, 04:10 PM	#10
George Anderson Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: VA Posts: 3,592 Thanks: 1,772 Thanked 2,527 Times in 786 Posts	Those striations are to be expected on all DWMs 1914-1917. The only examples that I have that lack them are reworks.

04-27-2006, 04:17 PM	#11
vroyce User Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 51 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Thanks for clarifying that George....after looking at a few more LP08 pics, I had begun to wonder that myself. vroyce

04-27-2006, 08:55 PM	#12
grapppa User Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Hillsborough, NJ Posts: 147 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Thanks for the info George. Darn, I passed up a nice DWM artillery AND a Navy because I thought the striations were evidence of refinish. BUT - since I own a pristine 1916 DWM with them also I am a happy camper Especially since I own another nice 1917 Erfurt that has miliing marks in that area -so my extensive WWI collection of two checks out. Still looking for the Arty and Navy for the old collection...

04-28-2006, 02:13 AM	#13
Big Norm RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: SE Michigan Posts: 1,864 Thanks: 1 Thanked 6 Times in 5 Posts	Vroyce, nice artillery. The locking bolt looks nice and flat with chamfered edges and that tells me that there hasn't had any restrawing. Does your front sight have a serial number on it? I couldn't make out the serial number on the rear sights slider. I am still a little in shock at the prices of artilleries so I can't say anything about your price. But the guns a keeper. Nice going. Big Norm

04-28-2006, 08:08 AM	#14
vroyce User Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 51 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Big Norm, Thanks much for the positive comments. Here is the s.n. on the slider - 59, so it matches. I'll have to check the front site tonight when I get home. I am a novice on this so can you tell me again how to detect if a luger has been restrawed or is original. What are chamfered edges? Thanks, vroyce

04-28-2006, 08:36 PM	#15
vroyce User Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 51 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Big Norm, Front site marked 59. vroyce

04-30-2006, 07:58 AM	#17
Big Norm RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: SE Michigan Posts: 1,864 Thanks: 1 Thanked 6 Times in 5 Posts	Vroyce, before a part is restrawed, there is a light surface of oxidized metal on that part that should be removed before applying the heat treatment required for the restrawing. This is called prepping. Real good restorers will have a way of removing this oxidized surface without resorting to sandpaper or a buffing wheel. An amateur will remove it by maybe using a wet/dry sandpaper or buffing wheel. But the Locking Bolt is small and difficult to hold steady. So the amatuer will customarily roll his wrist or the part while prepping it and round the small flat surface of this part and thus remove the beveled edges and flatness of surface that you see on your gun. Very, very experienced Luger people tell me that they can look at the color of a strawed part and sometimes tell if the part has been restrawed. This must be done physically and can not be done by looking at a photograph. Personally, I can't do it consistently either way, so I resort to looking at the general condition of the part as well as the coloring. Big Norm