What have I got

[honesttjohn]

My late best friend's widow just dropped these off and said to do something with them. I have no idea if it's worth pursuing any further or just sticking them in the back of the cabinet. Is there a connection between the Mauser and Luger? All ideas and suggestions are appreciated.

[honesttjohn]

This was by the trigger guard

[gunbugs]

You have a fairly good looking Mauser made (BYF) 1942 Luger P08. No real connection between that and the Mauser pistol. Can't really tell if the small parts are serial number matching. A Neutral background, (not white or black) will help the photos. Outside in natural shaded light is best, with closer photos of the small parts.

[reiver]

The second pistol is a Model 1914 Mauser 3rd edition with a build date of 1919. It is in 7.65 cal (.32 ACP).

[honesttjohn]

All the exterior parts (except the mag) are all stamped with 66. I'm afraid to take it down - might not get it back together again. Thanx for the reply.

[Mac Cat]

The 1942 P.08 Mauser Luger (5966d) looks like it's a keeper (i.e. collectible condition)

It's not that hard to field strip it.
The takedown lever can be a little hard to move, at first.
I prefer to push the muzzle end on to a computer mouse pad, to push the receiver back 1/2".
Then move the takedown liver with your other hand.
If it's really tight, use a piece of wood (I use a wooden a clothes pin) to rotate it 90 degrees.

The grips look like they are in great shape.
Be very careful removing them.
I like to take out the magazine and push out the right grip first with my finger
Then do the left one, being very careful not to chip it up near the safety lever.
Grips may or may not be stamped inside.

The smaller parts inside will also be numbered.
And, then it needs to be oiled.

Full photos would include the top, sides, front and muzzle, but they need to be higher resolution and with a lot more lighting. Take it outside and photograph it in indirect sunlight or under a white sheet on a solid dark background (red, gray, black). Enjoy - taking photographs is challenging, but you already learned how to UPLOAD them !!!

Love to see more of both pistols.

[reiver]

You should dis assemble the pistols to clean and lube them...there are Youtube vids that will show you how to do so and it isn't dif.

[honesttjohn]

Thanx Mac Cat. Sounds challenging - a little more complicated than cleaning my hunting rifle or AR 15. Don't have a clue what I'm going to do with it yet.

[ithacaartist]

Welcome, John,

Field stripping for cleaning is a basic skill you should have, although not shooting a collectible Luger in such great condition is something ordinarily to be considered in order to avoid risk of damaging the pistol, and thus its collectible value.

YouTube videos will demonstrate how easy the process really is, so I agree that watching a few will sufficiently inform you how to do it safely and effectively. For a Luger tha--such as yours--has a hold-open, I use a different technique to relieve the pressure on the takedown lever, allowing it to turn. Insert an empty mag and lock the action back. Then remove the mag, turn the lever, and draw the toggle knobs back and release in a controlled way to unlock the action to continue the disassembly. I've always found the concept of shoving the muzzle against something a little sketchy. Earlier Lugers' muzzles are "in the white," but ones made and salt blued after 1936 have blued muzzles, and shoving them against anything risks finish loss, although admittedly not a lot.

The left grip is another tricky area due to the potential for chipping off the portion on its upper right, behind the thumb safety lever. After raising the grip scale just enough to do so, gently rotate it around the lever's shaft until it clears. Others suspect that incautious removal of the grip causes the "million dollar chip," but I think that shooting a Luger with loose grips is just as likely a cause, if not more so. I think there's room for confusion as to the source of the damage, and that in may cases, the chip/loose piece is discovered when removing the grip, after it's been cracked off while shooting.

A grip that has shrunk with age can allow some of the force of the recoil impulse to find its way to the vulnerable area of the grip, and the safety lever's shaft will be driven back against the tiny bit of wood that sticks up behind it while shooting if the shrinkage is enough to allow it. Therefore, make sure at the very least that the left grip is rock solid, and that there is a tiny bit of clearance between the safety lever's shaft and the wood behind it.