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#5 |
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Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 33
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if you're worried about damaging the blade , try using an aluminum drift punch when drifting it out . and be sure to only applying the pressure on the blades base (inside the barrels dovetail) , as it could get bent otherwise . a simple way to pad it "MIGHT" be to use a short piece of copper tubing ( be sure to de-burr it as well ) that is slit length wise to allow for contraction (when being held by the vise) and ALSO lined with leather to protect the barrel's finish .
It is also a good idea to have a proper size round pin the is a close fit to slide inside the barrel , to keep from accidentally "crushing" the barrel ; it should be able to side in only by finger pressure . A suitable size pin can be turned down from mild steel ( and polished ) by any machinist , or easily home made by using a power drill to turn it and carefully filling it to the proper diameter ( check with micrometer or calipers for uniformity ) ; polishing to get the final fit . --- this is a common practice when changing any pistol / revolver barrel as they are often very thin walled and it really doesn't take as much pressure as one would think to distort the inside bore size a little . --- an once of prevention is worth a pound of cure .... |
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front sight, luger, removal |
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