1900 AE - Opinions/Help... - Page 2

Ron Wood · 12-19-2003, 02:09 AM

It would be highly unlikely that there was any mark there originally. If there was anything written in that area, it would have had to been in Cyrillic. The only safety marked 1900 was the Bulgarian, and the serial number is too low for that. I have to admit, if you use your imagination it looks like you can make out a couple of script letters, maybe Ã¢?Âgeo...Ã¢?Â <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />

Vlim · 12-19-2003, 09:05 AM

haha,

Yes, he must have used ordinary ink before he had his 'GL' stamp made

But seriously, if one would mark a blued gun using ink or a marker, would it affect the blueing?

John Sabato · 12-19-2003, 09:50 AM

Yes and No... it depends on the chemicals in the ink and how they react to steel and the blue surface. Personally I wouldn't write anything on the surface of a gun... You never know what will affect the finish.

Most folks don't realize that a nickled gun exposed to Hoppes #9 for an extended time will cause the nickle to dissolve! I know a friend that had a S&W Nickle Model 29 that once wiped his gun down heavily with Hoppes before he put it away for longer than a year. When it came out of the wool-lined pistol case a year later, it had to be returned to Smith&Wesson to be restored...

Hugh · 12-19-2003, 07:50 PM

Hoppes #9 dissolves copper. When a gun is nickel plated, it is first plated with a thin coat of copper and the nickel plate is applied over the copper plate. That is why Hoppes #9 as well as other copper solvents, should not be applied to nickel plated guns.

12-19-2003, 02:09 AM	#21
Ron Wood Moderator 2010 LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Santa Teresa New Mexico just outside of the West Texas town of El Paso Posts: 6,986 Thanks: 1,065 Thanked 5,088 Times in 1,674 Posts	It would be highly unlikely that there was any mark there originally. If there was anything written in that area, it would have had to been in Cyrillic. The only safety marked 1900 was the Bulgarian, and the serial number is too low for that. I have to admit, if you use your imagination it looks like you can make out a couple of script letters, maybe Ã¢?Âgeo...Ã¢?Â <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" /> __________________ If it's made after 1918...it's a reproduction

12-19-2003, 09:50 AM	#23
John Sabato Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: The Capital of the Free World Posts: 10,150 Thanks: 3,003 Thanked 2,304 Times in 1,096 Posts	Yes and No... it depends on the chemicals in the ink and how they react to steel and the blue surface. Personally I wouldn't write anything on the surface of a gun... You never know what will affect the finish. Most folks don't realize that a nickled gun exposed to Hoppes #9 for an extended time will cause the nickle to dissolve! I know a friend that had a S&W Nickle Model 29 that once wiped his gun down heavily with Hoppes before he put it away for longer than a year. When it came out of the wool-lined pistol case a year later, it had to be returned to Smith&Wesson to be restored... __________________ regards, -John S "...We hold these truths to be self-evident that ALL men are created EQUAL *and are endowed by their Creator* with certain UNALIENABLE* rights, and among these are life, LIBERTY, and the pursuit of happiness..."*

12-19-2003, 07:50 PM	#24
Hugh RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Southeast Texas Swamp Posts: 2,460 Thanks: 2 Thanked 165 Times in 64 Posts	Hoppes #9 dissolves copper. When a gun is nickel plated, it is first plated with a thin coat of copper and the nickel plate is applied over the copper plate. That is why Hoppes #9 as well as other copper solvents, should not be applied to nickel plated guns. __________________ *TRUMP FOR PREZ IN '20!*

12-19-2003, 09:05 AM	#22
Vlim Moderator Lifetime LugerForum Patron Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Europe Posts: 5,032 Thanks: 1,018 Thanked 3,873 Times in 1,184 Posts	haha, Yes, he must have used ordinary ink before he had his 'GL' stamp made But seriously, if one would mark a blued gun using ink or a marker, would it affect the blueing?