Welcome Home Luger...

Bart · 10-23-2001, 06:08 PM

Looking for more advice as I am a day or so away from welcoming home my first Luger. Please tell me how to care for this new prize. Do I clean it as I would clean my 9mm Ruger that I just brought back from the range? Or, do I use simply give it a coat of some top shelf rust preventative (i.e. BreakFree, as listed in the FAQ's forum)? I've never used this product, but will get whatever is recommended.

My guess is that there are several trains of thought in this regard, and I would appreciate any and all of them.

Thanks,

Bart

(let's see...baby blanket, check...baby bottle, check...formula, check....diapers, check....getting close to being ready...)

Chuck Shoun · 10-23-2001, 07:56 PM

If you shoot it, know what ammo you are using -- corrosive or non corrosive. Disassemble, clean parts with patches soaked in bore cleaner, wipe dry, oil where you see oil is needed, make sure the bore is cleaned with ammonia at the range if shooting corrosive ammo. Clean the bore with a good bore cleaner. I just might add that I have found that TetraGun grease and lubricant make a firearm work a lot better than oil alone. For example, I had lead buildup in my P239, but after a good cleaning, and swabbing with TetraGun Lubricant, no lead buildup at all in the bore.

Dok · 10-23-2001, 08:01 PM

cuz you'll wanna be up all night admiring it!

Dok

Dok · 10-23-2001, 08:07 PM

(including me) use a product called Clenzoil (see link below), a really great lubricant and anti rust. IHTH

Dok

Clenzoil Gun Oil

Bart · 10-23-2001, 09:28 PM

Dok...thanks for the reminder about the no-doze. I just visited that website you recommended in regard to Clenzoil. It says you can use it on wood also. Do you use it on your grips?

Bart

10-23-2001, 11:58 PM

Although I use Clenzoil, I have tested it on wood and it, not surprisingly, leaves a oily discoloration. Maybe this will disappear in time, but I am a little reluctant to put Clenzoil on wooden grips. Also, although the Clenzoil advertising hype says how wonderful it is for metal, wood, and leather, it is strangely silent on whether or not it can be used on plastic or bakelite. Since it appears to have a petroleum base, I could see it eventually softening Black Widow or other plastic grips if the grips are exposed to the Clenzoil for a while. I wrote Clenzoil once asking about this potential problem, but they never responded.

Thor · 10-24-2001, 01:07 AM

I sugguest not using Clenzoil on grips but it is excellent ++ on bluing and does protect strawing from fading through my own tests! I dont like to use a lot of it in the safety area due to the paint in that location, but a very light coat is okay I think. Marvin tested this product with others and it and another one called Breakfree were the two best as rust preventatives. I use it exclusively and have never been dissapointed! I have never liked putting ANY oil on grips, it makes them look dark and nasty IMO! ~Thor~

Marvin · 10-24-2001, 07:43 AM

I think Mr. Thor said it all. I did a semi-scientific rust test and the Clenzoil was one of the best. The Breakfree was right there with the Clenzoil. Clenzoil does smell a lot better too.

Although I think Clenzoil is the best stuff going, I don't use it on my wood grips. On the frame under the grips, I apply a light coat of Clenzoil and let the carrier dissepate before putting the grips back on the frame. As to a lube on the slide rails, I use a military high pressure artillery grease. This is a lithium based product and has worked well on my shooting Luger. With most Lugers, most any type high qauality grease, applied sparingly, will work on the sliding areas.

Marvin

10-24-2001, 08:23 AM

In the Army we of course used Breakfree and I always thought it was amazing stuff.

However, not only does it keep everything working smooth, it does leave a kind of oily film and a little goes a long way.

As you leave it on and then several days later you happen to go and wipe off the barrel or swab the bore, you will see that it appears to gather / push out / take out, more grime and lead. Breakfree appears to work later and keep on working. The 1st couple of years (maybe 10 years!) of using it in the military, an NCO would reinspect one of our .45's and want to know why our weapon was dirty! Didn't we ever clean that %^&%! pistol!

Funny stuff.

I like it and still use Breakfree on my own weapons at home.

Ed

Hugh · 10-24-2001, 10:25 AM

The best product to preserve grips is a good grade Carnuba wax applied sparingly, allowed to dry and then hand rubbed lightly. For checkered grips a soft brush will remove it from the checkering.

HÃ?Â¥kan Spuhr · 10-24-2001, 03:36 PM

When it comes to break free there is several differnt products made and all are break free.

The smell of the differnet produckts is very varying some smells good and some smells terrible.

I am very satisfied with break free and don't intend to change to something else.

When the Swedish army switshed over to Break free some years ago they got rust problems on some artillery pieces that was long times stored.

It turned out that break free is great alone but they had not cleaned off the old grease and the mix was not good.

All mineral oils are bad for wood, so regardless of what oil you are using for the gun that oil should not be used for the wood.

Regards HÃ?Â¥kan

10-23-2001, 06:08 PM	#1
Bart User Join Date: Jun 2002 Posts: 85 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Welcome Home Luger... Looking for more advice as I am a day or so away from welcoming home my first Luger. Please tell me how to care for this new prize. Do I clean it as I would clean my 9mm Ruger that I just brought back from the range? Or, do I use simply give it a coat of some top shelf rust preventative (i.e. BreakFree, as listed in the FAQ's forum)? I've never used this product, but will get whatever is recommended. My guess is that there are several trains of thought in this regard, and I would appreciate any and all of them. Thanks, Bart (let's see...baby blanket, check...baby bottle, check...formula, check....diapers, check....getting close to being ready...)

10-23-2001, 07:56 PM	#2
Chuck Shoun User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Brigham City, UT Posts: 30 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Welcome Home Luger... If you shoot it, know what ammo you are using -- corrosive or non corrosive. Disassemble, clean parts with patches soaked in bore cleaner, wipe dry, oil where you see oil is needed, make sure the bore is cleaned with ammonia at the range if shooting corrosive ammo. Clean the bore with a good bore cleaner. I just might add that I have found that TetraGun grease and lubricant make a firearm work a lot better than oil alone. For example, I had lead buildup in my P239, but after a good cleaning, and swabbing with TetraGun Lubricant, no lead buildup at all in the bore.

10-23-2001, 08:01 PM	#3
Dok RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Bermuda (Eat Your Heart Out) Posts: 1,626 Thanks: 0 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	Don't forget the NO-DOZE... cuz you'll wanna be up all night admiring it! Dok

10-23-2001, 08:07 PM	#4
Dok RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Bermuda (Eat Your Heart Out) Posts: 1,626 Thanks: 0 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	A number of Luger Forum members... (including me) use a product called Clenzoil (see link below), a really great lubricant and anti rust. IHTH Dok Clenzoil Gun Oil

10-23-2001, 09:28 PM	#5
Bart User Join Date: Jun 2002 Posts: 85 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: A number of Luger Forum members... Dok...thanks for the reminder about the no-doze. I just visited that website you recommended in regard to Clenzoil. It says you can use it on wood also. Do you use it on your grips? Bart

10-23-2001, 11:58 PM	#6
Mike T. Guest Posts: n/a	Re: A number of Luger Forum members... Although I use Clenzoil, I have tested it on wood and it, not surprisingly, leaves a oily discoloration. Maybe this will disappear in time, but I am a little reluctant to put Clenzoil on wooden grips. Also, although the Clenzoil advertising hype says how wonderful it is for metal, wood, and leather, it is strangely silent on whether or not it can be used on plastic or bakelite. Since it appears to have a petroleum base, I could see it eventually softening Black Widow or other plastic grips if the grips are exposed to the Clenzoil for a while. I wrote Clenzoil once asking about this potential problem, but they never responded.

10-24-2001, 01:07 AM	#7
Thor User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico Posts: 4,583 Thanks: 958 Thanked 970 Times in 276 Posts	Re: A number of Luger Forum members... I sugguest not using Clenzoil on grips but it is excellent ++ on bluing and does protect strawing from fading through my own tests! I dont like to use a lot of it in the safety area due to the paint in that location, but a very light coat is okay I think. Marvin tested this product with others and it and another one called Breakfree were the two best as rust preventatives. I use it exclusively and have never been dissapointed! I have never liked putting ANY oil on grips, it makes them look dark and nasty IMO! ~Thor~

10-24-2001, 07:43 AM	#8
Marvin User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Upstate S.C. Posts: 1,132 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: A number of Luger Forum members... I think Mr. Thor said it all. I did a semi-scientific rust test and the Clenzoil was one of the best. The Breakfree was right there with the Clenzoil. Clenzoil does smell a lot better too. Although I think Clenzoil is the best stuff going, I don't use it on my wood grips. On the frame under the grips, I apply a light coat of Clenzoil and let the carrier dissepate before putting the grips back on the frame. As to a lube on the slide rails, I use a military high pressure artillery grease. This is a lithium based product and has worked well on my shooting Luger. With most Lugers, most any type high qauality grease, applied sparingly, will work on the sliding areas. Marvin

10-24-2001, 08:23 AM	#9
66mustang Guest Posts: n/a	Re: A number of Luger Forum members... In the Army we of course used Breakfree and I always thought it was amazing stuff. However, not only does it keep everything working smooth, it does leave a kind of oily film and a little goes a long way. As you leave it on and then several days later you happen to go and wipe off the barrel or swab the bore, you will see that it appears to gather / push out / take out, more grime and lead. Breakfree appears to work later and keep on working. The 1st couple of years (maybe 10 years!) of using it in the military, an NCO would reinspect one of our .45's and want to know why our weapon was dirty! Didn't we ever clean that %^&%! pistol! Funny stuff. I like it and still use Breakfree on my own weapons at home. Ed

10-24-2001, 10:25 AM	#10
Hugh RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Southeast Texas Swamp Posts: 2,460 Thanks: 2 Thanked 165 Times in 64 Posts	Re: A number of Luger Forum members... The best product to preserve grips is a good grade Carnuba wax applied sparingly, allowed to dry and then hand rubbed lightly. For checkered grips a soft brush will remove it from the checkering.

10-24-2001, 03:36 PM	#11
HÃ?Â¥kan Spuhr User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Sweden Posts: 282 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: A number of Luger Forum members... When it comes to break free there is several differnt products made and all are break free. The smell of the differnet produckts is very varying some smells good and some smells terrible. I am very satisfied with break free and don't intend to change to something else. When the Swedish army switshed over to Break free some years ago they got rust problems on some artillery pieces that was long times stored. It turned out that break free is great alone but they had not cleaned off the old grease and the mix was not good. All mineral oils are bad for wood, so regardless of what oil you are using for the gun that oil should not be used for the wood. Regards HÃ?Â¥kan