Which linseed oil for grips?

[don95sml]

In a 9/19/02 posted reply to alex, saxman says "Oil the stocks with raw (not boiled) linseed oil." The FAQs (under General Information) on this forum say "Apply a very thin coating of BOILED LINSEED OIL (Not plain, it MUST be BOILED) to the grips. . ." Now I'm confused. Which is correct and why?

[Johnny Peppers]

Personally I prefer the boiled as it dries better for me. In fact, when restoring a dried out military rifle stock I mix boiled linseed oil and turpentine 50/50. It still smells like BLO, but dries much faster.

[ViggoG]

Don,
If I remember correctly, the proper linseed oil is the "boiled"(*) variety.
Raw linseed oil is just that ,raw-Untreated!
Drys very slow if at all and may remain tacky for months)
So called "boiled" linseed oil has a hardener or drying agent added to promote drying and hardening.
The drying agent may be "Japonica (drying agent and hardner) or one of the other drying agents.
(*) Not actually boiled but treated with a hardner or drying agent or both.
ViggoG

[Hugh]

I have read numerous books and articles on gunstock making and finishing, and have even made a few gunstocks and grips. Everything that I have read recommends boiled, not raw, linseed oil. As Viggo stated, it is not actually "boiled" but treated with a drying agent to make it dry.

Once years ago I used raw linseed oil on a gunstock that I refinished, a month later it was still "tacky". I finally flushed it with solvent and a heat lamp to remove as much of the oil as I could, then treated it with the boiled variety. A few days later it was ready to hunt with.

[Alain]

I once saw (and used at a friend's place)a bottle labeled "gun stock oil".
Would that be boiled linseed oil?

It gave a darker finish to blank grips and dried in a day or two.
Results were great on these blank P06 grips.

The label seemed generic, could it have been a brand ?

Alain

[saxman]

A good question that I hoped would be asked. Basically, boiled linseed oil is a surface finish for wood which can result in a lustrous to glossy finish. Think of it almost as a varnish which dries after application. This or tung oil would be good to use if you desire a glossy finish.
Raw linseed oil is applied to military gun stocks to season and protect the wood without leaving a glossy finish, which would obviously be detrimental to any military application. Since the Luger is a military weapon, I personally prefer to use raw linseed oil to treat the stocks. Raw linseed oil is not meant to be painted on like varnish - it is rubbed on with a cloth in a light coat and allowed to penetrate the wood. When wood stocks were on G.I. weapons, this was the procedure as the last step in cleaning and oiling the weapon. Boiled linseed oil and tung oil are recommended by those who prefer glossy grips. Even raw linseed oil will give a sheen over time as the wood is handled and rubbed. U.S. G.I. stocks had to be periodically cleaned, sanded, stained and re-oiled to be returned to their correct appearance. This was usually done when the weapon came in for Depot maintenace. Anytime you see a Carbine or Garand with a glossy stock, you know that stock is not in original configuration.
So, bottom line, if you want glossy stocks use boiled linseed oil. If you want the flat military look, use raw.
Important note: Any linseed oil is capable of spontaneous combustion, particularly on paper or cloth. This material must be disposed of properly to prevent fires. One method is to keep rags, cloth, etc. in an airtight steel container until disposal. Ask your local Fire Dep't. for more particulars.