LugerForum Discussion Forums my profile | register | faq | search
upload photo | donate | calendar

Go Back   LugerForum Discussion Forums > Luger Discussion Forums > Commercial Lugers

Reply
Thread Tools Display Modes
Unread 06-27-2011, 12:47 PM   #1
mayagrafix
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Pistol barrel rifling

I have a DWM commercial #6714 with the original numbered barrel which has no rifling, at least none visible to the eye. Is this normal for Lugers?
  Reply With Quote
Unread 06-27-2011, 01:05 PM   #2
alanint
User
 
alanint's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Marco Island, Florida
Posts: 4,867
Thanks: 1,685
Thanked 1,916 Times in 1,192 Posts
Default

It may be worn but if the balance of the pistol is in decent shape, then more likely the gun has been fired extensively with lead bullets, which have gummed up the barrel. A good lead removal product might fix this up.
alanint is offline   Reply With Quote
The following member says Thank You to alanint for your post:
Unread 06-27-2011, 05:23 PM   #3
rhuff
Patron
LugerForum
Patron
 
rhuff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Az.
Posts: 2,291
Thanks: 2,709
Thanked 972 Times in 717 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by alanint View Post
It may be worn but if the balance of the pistol is in decent shape, then more likely the gun has been fired extensively with lead bullets, which have gummed up the barrel. A good lead removal product might fix this up.


What he said. I have seen this occur many time, when shooting the incorrect lead bullet, or too much velocity for the hardness of the lead.
rhuff is offline   Reply With Quote
The following member says Thank You to rhuff for your post:
Unread 06-27-2011, 09:50 PM   #4
regul
Patron
LugerForum
Patron
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: VA
Posts: 96
Thanks: 19
Thanked 57 Times in 20 Posts
Default

I have been using the Outers Foul Out Electronic System for years with excellent results for both copper and lead, if you follow the directions.
regul is offline   Reply With Quote
The following member says Thank You to regul for your post:
Unread 06-28-2011, 04:54 AM   #5
Ice
User
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 552
Thanks: 13
Thanked 69 Times in 57 Posts
Default

All copper Chore Boy pads - not copper plated - work great for removing leading from barrels. Just wrap some copper strands around a worn out bore brush and start cleaning. This method is best used dry and won't hurt the bore because copper is much softer than steel.

Charlie
Ice is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-28-2011, 08:27 AM   #6
sheepherder
Lifer
Lifetime Forum
Patron
 
sheepherder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: ...on the 'ol Erie Canal...
Posts: 8,183
Thanks: 1,400
Thanked 4,442 Times in 2,330 Posts
Default

I will throw this out here for S&G...and flame if you like...

One of my Colt Gold Cup 45's had lead fouling when I bought it [used]...Not a lot; just a little...I asked an old shooter how to get it out...he said to just shoot a FMJ slug through it...It sounded like a fairly drastic remedy, but since I shoot FMJ's anyway, I tried it...he was right...It cleaned the lead residue out...

Now, I'm not recommending it for this particular case...or for any case, for that matter...Just passing along an old pistol shooters ramblings...YMMV...
__________________
I like my coffee the
way I like my women...
...Cold and bitter...
sheepherder is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-28-2011, 09:04 AM   #7
alanint
User
 
alanint's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Marco Island, Florida
Posts: 4,867
Thanks: 1,685
Thanked 1,916 Times in 1,192 Posts
Default

I've done this and it works as long as there is not too much lead fouling in the barrel, in which case, you will have an overpressured round. Not ideal in a Luger.

A friend of mine blew up an M16 by extensively firing lead .22 rimfire through it full auto with a conversion unit then swapping back to .223 without scrubbing out the barrel. After I saw that, I built a dedicated .22 rimfire upper for my M16 and use that, and only that, with .22 rimfire.
alanint is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-28-2011, 10:41 AM   #8
DavidJayUden
Patron
LugerForum
Patron
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 4,047
Thanks: 578
Thanked 1,414 Times in 887 Posts
Default

HAs it yet been determined if the bore is either A. smooth and oversized or B. Full of lead and undersized?
dju
DavidJayUden is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-28-2011, 11:25 AM   #9
Olle
User
 
Olle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 1,149
Thanks: 159
Thanked 663 Times in 318 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by alanint View Post
A friend of mine blew up an M16 by extensively firing lead .22 rimfire through it full auto with a conversion unit then swapping back to .223 without scrubbing out the barrel. After I saw that, I built a dedicated .22 rimfire upper for my M16 and use that, and only that, with .22 rimfire.
Word on the street is that you just have to shoot some .223 to get the fouling out, so thats good info. I shoot quite a bit of .22 through my Bushmaster, so I will definitely be cleaning it after each session.
Olle is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-28-2011, 04:21 PM   #10
Michael Zeleny
Patron
LugerForum
Patron
 
Michael Zeleny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 525
Thanks: 129
Thanked 139 Times in 76 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ice View Post
All copper Chore Boy pads - not copper plated - work great for removing leading from barrels. Just wrap some copper strands around a worn out bore brush and start cleaning. This method is best used dry and won't hurt the bore because copper is much softer than steel.
And flesh is much softer than bronze, which doesn't stop the former from wearing the latter:
__________________
Michael Zeleny@post.harvard.edu -- http://larvatus.livejournal.com/ -- 7576 Willow Glen Road, Los Angeles, CA 90046 -- 323.363.1860
All of old. Nothing else ever. Ever tried. Ever failed. No matter. Try again. Fail again. Fail better. -- Samuel Beckett
Michael Zeleny is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-28-2011, 05:07 PM   #11
ithacaartist
Twice a Lifer
Lifetime Forum
Patron
 
ithacaartist's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Atop the highest hill in Schuyler County NY
Posts: 3,347
Thanks: 7,294
Thanked 2,579 Times in 1,366 Posts
Default

This pic doesn't help, Michael. the flesh /fabric wear has taken off the more powdery green sulfate patina to reveal the harder, brown patina. One is not looking at raw bronze in this photo.

I guess the point is that where there's contact, there's wear. The devil is in the proportions of wear shared by the two rubbing elements, the number of repetitions per unit time, both of which would determine how long it would take for significant wear to Proportions are based on hardness, but difficult to get a handle on in cases such as the Grand Canyon, or rubbing a penny on the carpet about half a million times to polish it. Bronze still trumps flesh, overall in the proportions, but I'll bet Victor's nub is actually worn down from its original, but we'd need a "before" shot to confirm this. But just think of how many, um, pieces of flesh have rubbed on this spot; or how much time it would have taken for one to do it!

So, as we've observed recently, please use a bore guide for any rod during scrubbing, at least!

Ben Franklin is supposed to have said that the shiniest key is the one that is used the most...
ithacaartist is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-28-2011, 06:03 PM   #12
alanint
User
 
alanint's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Marco Island, Florida
Posts: 4,867
Thanks: 1,685
Thanked 1,916 Times in 1,192 Posts
Default

Well, remember that my friend was shooting full auto with lead bullets at about 1,200 RPM. In a 14.5" barrel this leads up very quickly. Shooting semiauto should present a much lesser risk.

In any event, I went to a 7.5" barrel "Kitty Kat" upper, removed and plugged the gas tube and polished the entire insides. I also try to shoot only CCI minimags, which are plated, in the upper. With all these tweeks the upper runs 99% with a Ciener F/A kit. A blast to shoot all day very cheaply!!
alanint is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-05-2011, 03:01 PM   #13
mayagrafix
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Back to the original topic:
I found this on you tube:
http://youtu.be/xaY2-Gff6qY
about movie prop guns having threads added to the muzzle of the barrel in order to produce more pressure for the cycling action to work. Wouldn't you know it that this Luger precisely has this feature? I asked about it before in the new collectors forum and Vlim thought likewise about it being a movie prop. I thought that it was a silencer (or suppressor) hook up.

Maybe this is why the rifling is kaput.
  Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
barrel, dwm, rifling

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:07 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright © 1998 - 2024, Lugerforum.com