22 conversion kits

[Curss]

Excellent, hopefully the parts won't get any air time!

[Edward Tinker]

Well Rich, I like it

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by Edward Tinker

Well Rich, I like it

Just make sure there's a basket in front of the bench...Maybe put a second target in the basket...Score a 'two-fer'...

[Edward Tinker]

Originally Posted by sheepherder

Just make sure there's a basket in front of the bench...Maybe put a second target in the basket...Score a 'two-fer'...

gorilla glue?

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by Edward Tinker

gorilla glue?

Or drill it for a little wire lanyard...

[Edward Tinker]

Originally Posted by sheepherder

Or drill it for a little wire lanyard...

whatever and thats not the kids saying of whatever but whatever works

[sheepherder]

A question for any Erma conversion kit owners - The ejector does not have the 'hooks' that the 7.65/9mm Luger ejector has. There is nothing to hold the ejector in the receiver. When assembling it, I have to hold it in until the frame ears press against it.

The receiver I am using has an ejector slot just a bit smaller than the Erma ejector. I don't want to do any filing or machining, at least not quite yet.

The ejector doesn't seem to do anything. Pumping fired case through it, the extractor pulls the case out and when it clears the chamber, the firing pin flings it out. It doesn't even get back to the ejector.

I've been cycling it without the ejector and everything seems to work just fine. But because the ejector is wider than the receiver slot, it drags on the frame ears. It doesn't return to battery. It doesn't slide easily with the ejector in place. It's not fully seating.

Picture of Erma parts below.

Any users have any comments???

[ithacaartist]

Originally Posted by sheepherder

A question for any Erma conversion kit owners - The ejector does not have the 'hooks' that the 7.65/9mm Luger ejector has. There is nothing to hold the ejector in the receiver. When assembling it, I have to hold it in until the frame ears press against it.

The receiver I am using has an ejector slot just a bit smaller than the Erma ejector. I don't want to do any filing or machining, at least not quite yet.

The ejector doesn't seem to do anything. Pumping fired case through it, the extractor pulls the case out and when it clears the chamber, the firing pin flings it out. It doesn't even get back to the ejector.

I've been cycling it without the ejector and everything seems to work just fine. But because the ejector is wider than the receiver slot, it drags on the frame ears. It doesn't return to battery. It doesn't slide easily with the ejector in place. It's not fully seating.

Picture of Erma parts below.

Any users have any comments???

Rich, my SE 08 set does not have an ejector, it uses an extended right rear feed lip of its mag. I think the mag for yours will have no such protrusion. Anyway, my kit fits fine in my 29/70 Mauser, but it will not install on my 1917 DWM because the sear and the lug on the kit's firing pin do not line up correctly, and the fit of the liner in the barrel is simply too tight. I'm wondering if your setup might not be more at home in a 70s' Mauser.

Also, the extractor appears to be the same as would be found in the KGP 68A Erma pistols--the .380 and .32 autos. Though there's one for sale on eBay right now, they're normally scarce as hens' teeth.

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by ithacaartist

I'm wondering if your setup might not be more at home in a 70s' Mauser...

Excellent thought; one that had not occurred to me.

The box does look brand-new; the individual parts all look new & unworn. The only 'wear' now is where I took a stone to the barrel liner/chamber edge area, to get a measurement for my chamber plug. (There was still a sharp edge, with a burr). The printed instructions are also new-looking; no fading or discoloration, no creases or dog-ears.

No protrusion on the magazine.

I noticed that my reamer pilot would not enter the Ermal barrel liner, although it did/does enter the 7 1/2" barrel. The Erma bore is just slightly smaller than the 7 1/2" barrel bore. I suppose the Erma is not manufactured to SAAMI standards as any US barrel would be.

Did or does Erma still make these conversion units? Did they make conversions for the 70's Mauser Lugers?

Is Erma still in business?

[alanint]

Erma is no longer in business. Any kits or parts need to be scrounged from existing stocks.

[sheepherder]

Took it to the range this morning. Pic below. If you look real close at the target, in the 10-ring, you'll see...Nothing. I missed the paper completely.

Crappy cell phone pic. Usually takes good pics (3.2Mpixel).

Action wouldn't move/shoot with ejector in place. Taking it out, I could shoot single-shot. Had other problems; re-thinking my original idea.

The bear definitely ate me today...

[kurusu]

Originally Posted by sheepherder

Took it to the range this morning. Pic below. If you look real close at the target, in the 10-ring, you'll see...Nothing. I missed the paper completely.

Any ideia where they hit, high; low; left; right?
If they're consistent you're in business.

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by alanint

Erma is no longer in business. Any kits or parts need to be scrounged from existing stocks.

I'm not going to try modifying any Erma parts. The complete 'kit' is too valuable.

Did Erma make a specific 'kit' for the 70's Mauser Lugers???

[kurusu]

Originally Posted by sheepherder

Did Erma make a specific 'kit' for the 70's Mauser Lugers???

I don't think so. Erma was already half dead when Mauser gave a second life to Lugers.
I think Vlim should be the best source for accurate information about that.

[ithacaartist]

Originally Posted by sheepherder

I'm not going to try modifying any Erma parts. The complete 'kit' is too valuable.

Did Erma make a specific 'kit' for the 70's Mauser Lugers???

Rich, what would you charge to reproduce the rearmost piece for this kit--the one with the sight notch, buffer bolt & spring, thru which the replacement rear toggle axle goes? There's a kit on GB I'm interested in, and it is missing that part, no mag for it, but a MecGar included.

My take on what these best fit is that the examples available to Erma at that time were the 70s' Mauser production. If likely used as a basis for dimensions of a kit, then those would be the best guns for fit.

I could send you up one of my mags for the SE 08 kit to try out. As I said, one of the ears shows up in the right place to act as their ejector. You could remove the original ejector and use the mag for this earlier system in your setup. If this solves the ejection problem, it sounds like you'd be all set for shooting, if everything else continues to behave properly. Sarco has new springs for the SE 08/2, and some other misc. parts.

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by ithacaartist

Rich, what would you charge...

Hundreds of dinars...

PM sent!

[ithacaartist]

I'll get to the PM in a moment, didn't notice it at the top. The reason I came back to the thread this time is to comment further about your kit's extractor. And a dinar is still $0.001, I hope!

It has the same system of staying in place as it does in the KGP series by Erma. Several of mine have thrown their extractors during use--or simply arrived without them. The latest was replaced upon the pistol's arrival and was gone at the end of the first test mag. I've been puzzling over just what, mechanically, is going on to cause this. It's not 100% the design because some throw the extractors and many do not. One difference I can see is for the potential for tolerances to add up with bad results in the way the breech block, with the extractor's tip leading the way on the journey to battery, might go awry. The extractor's tip must clear the notch in the receiver, and I'm wondering if there is enough play of 1)the breech block within the upper and 2) the extractor within its slot in the breech block, for the extractor to be offset enough in relation to the extractor cut to jam into it when the action is slamming back home. My plan is to relieve--very slightly--the sharp corners on the front of the extractor on the worst offender I have, then test, test, test, to become confident one way or the other as to the results of the "adjustment". To be on the safe side, I might shoot from within a big cardboard box to keep the flying parts around where I can find them. A backyard range with grass is anathema to finding spent brass, let alone a tiny piece of blued steel.

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by ithacaartist

One difference I can see is for the potential for tolerances to add up with bad results in the way the breech block...

The extractor is a sloppy fit. The bottom of the extractor has a round button that fits in a round recess at the bottom of the extractor cut. The button is bigger in diameter than the slot...Or appears to be...The slot is actually wide enough for the extractor to slip out the front, instead of straight up, as it appears it was designed to.

It does hit the slot in the chamber face when closed. If the slot was deepened, it would either cut into the chamber or into the barrel insert. It might be a solution to trim back the snout of the extractor so it doesn't hit the slope in the insert.

[Edward Tinker]

hey, if I can pay in dinars I am set. Heck, I brought home a couple hundred from Iraq

single shot is a lot better than it was

[ithacaartist]

Originally Posted by sheepherder

The extractor is a sloppy fit. The bottom of the extractor has a round button that fits in a round recess at the bottom of the extractor cut. The button is bigger in diameter than the slot...Or appears to be...The slot is actually wide enough for the extractor to slip out the front, instead of straight up, as it appears it was designed to.

It does hit the slot in the chamber face when closed. If the slot was deepened, it would either cut into the chamber or into the barrel insert. It might be a solution to trim back the snout of the extractor so it doesn't hit the slope in the insert.

I was referring more to hitting the sides on the way in. I've noticed the same thing you've noted, and will consider swiping the front of the extractor across the grinding wheel a couple of times so it doesn't jump up like that when the breech block is fully in battery. I'm not sure it influences the flying out deal, though.

The cheap-o zinc Ermas had an arrangement very similar to the P.08, with a vertical spring under the tail, and a pin that holds the danged thing in--although the extractor itself has a very different profile.

The Erma extractor we're discussing is mounted most precariously. What retains it is the tension from the spring and plunger behind, pressing it into the front top edge of the vertical hole into which the extractor's "tail" drops. The swelling below where the plunger's tip rests would, combined with the forward tension from the spring, tend to keep it in place. The guy that produced a round of home made CNC replacements said he deepened the little dimple there. When the extractor rocks up while hopping over the round's rim, it seems to me that this method of retention of the part gets a little dicey. A deeper dimple might actually help.