22 conversion kits

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by ithacaartist

I've noticed the same thing you've noted, and will consider swiping the front of the extractor across the grinding wheel a couple of times so it doesn't jump up like that when the breech block is fully in battery. I'm not sure it influences the flying out deal, though.

The Erma extractor we're discussing is mounted most precariously. What retains it is the tension from the spring and plunger behind, pressing it into the front top edge of the vertical hole into which the extractor's "tail" drops. The swelling below where the plunger's tip rests would, combined with the forward tension from the spring, tend to keep it in place. The guy that produced a round of home made CNC replacements said he deepened the little dimple there. When the extractor rocks up while hopping over the round's rim, it seems to me that this method of retention of the part gets a little dicey. A deeper dimple might actually help.

I've given this a bit of thought, and think what happens is like you say: When the beveled front of the extractor hits the slanted cut in the barrel insert, it is levered up and back at the same time. As you point out, only the tail of the plunger keeps it in the breech cut. The back of the breech cut is a drilled hole, and the cut is a few thousandths less than the diameter of the hole. The extractor has that button on the back/bottom that should be greater dia than the cut, but isn't quite.

I think that John was right about that first shot being too powerful [Remington Viper 22, no FPS or pressure rating on the box] that when the extractor rebounded and hit the insert slant, it jarred the extractor button up far enough to disengage from the bottom of the drilled hole [the dimple], and it sailed forward...

The basic design seems OK; it's just sloppy German workmanship!

[ithacaartist]

If all else fails, there's always the mini-lanyard!

[sheepherder]

For posterity, here's the parts schematic...

And an "Instruction Manual" for what must be an early SE08/2...

[ithacaartist]

Here is a German source http://www.germanguns.de/export/guns...ngen/ews08.jpg for parts for these kits. Their pricing is in USD, so I think they export without a problem. Whoever bought that incomplete kit may find his missing components here. Maybe not, as plenty of parts pages are not updated very well, if at all. I think I will look into what they may have.

BTW, I just bought a raft of Erma internals and other stuff for many models. I won't know exactly what until they arrive this week sometime. I'll start a thread about this enterprise as soon as I know what I have, but I will definitely be looking to sell any and all of it.

[ithacaartist]

Originally Posted by sheepherder

I need to find something between 'Standard Velocity' (the CCI 'Target') and the 'Hyper-Velocity' (Remington Viper). Logic would have me think that 'High Velocity' should be somewhere in-between but none of the boxes [except CCI] have velocity figures on the box...

... Oh, yeah - I cut paper 7 times out of the 20!

CCI MiniMags 40 gr. RN = 1235 fps at muzzle. Remington Targer, 1200 fps. Or maybe lose a couple of coils of the action spring!

I had to search around in the data provided by various sellers, etc. online to compile a list of muzzle velocities for the various .22lr 40 gr. rounds one might be able to buy. Sorry, I can't find that list at the moment, but one could reconstruct it with a half hour's work.

[Edward Tinker]

Rich, what velocity are you looking for?

I have a range I could / would send you?

But I need dog food too if you go out....

[Diver6106]

I bid on the kit with the rear block-site missing and no 22LR mag, figuring I could find a part, but it went over my price. I previously bought an Erma Erfurt kit for $400 missing the cardboard box, but complete with toggle group, magazine and two barrel cover/ spacers for the 7" 22LR barrel insert, one for a 4" and one for a 6" 9mm barrel. I've seen other kits for $400 complete, so if it is missing the mag, as this one was (a mecgar 9mm mag won't do), it isn't worth it. A 22LR mag to fit a standard P-08 runs $300-400. I also bought a frame with barrel for my 22LR kit, see 2787 in unit ID for pictures.

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by Diver6106

I also bought a frame with barrel for my 22LR kit, see 2787 in unit ID for pictures.

See what/where???

You can post links; we don't mind...But attaching a pic to your post would be much better...

[sheepherder]

Here's an alert to you guys with the SE 08/2 Erma kits - This pin came out and plonked on the bench after shooting nine rounds single-shot...

I put it back in but I no longer trust the kit. Things keep coming apart...

[Ron Wood]

All of these neat posts about .22 conversions finally prodded me to rummage around in my unfinished projects box. Quite a number of years ago I acquired an American Eagle barrel/receiver in which someone had permanently installed a .22 conversion liner. As you can see from the photo, there wasn't a lot of original barrel remaining after it was bored out to accept the liner. I also found an interesting Erma .22 conversion toggle. It is the only one I have seen that has an adjustable rear sight. I have a couple of .22 conversion magazines but I have never put them all together on a frame to check it out. Maybe one of these days....

[lugerholsterrepair]

Ron, Camon..give it a try...you're almost there! How can you sleep at night not knowing...

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by Ron Wood

I have a couple of .22 conversion magazines but I have never put them all together on a frame to check it out. Maybe one of these days....

Tomorrow is a good day...

***************************************************

There's a "Nazi" Erma conversion unit on GB, it almost looks like an adjustable rear sight (but I guess it's not!)...Quite different from the kit I looked at...

[Diver6106]

When you put the 7" 22 barrel in, DO NOT cut it down (as done above). A complete kit should come with two barrel covers for the extension out the front of the barrel. One for a 4" barrel, the cover being 3", and a second for Lugers with 6" barrels, the cover being 1". Each will leave a short section of threads for the two locking nuts.

[Also if you look at my entry under "Unit Markings" you can see pics of my frame #2787, unit 7.D.18.]
http://forum.lugerforum.com/showthread.php?t=33245

Addendum: As Sheepherder's pin came out above, mine was also loose. I peened it in on both sides and it has a vertical locking pin on the left side that also secures it. I hammered this locking pin in tight with a VERY small punch. Georg seemed to like these little locking pins. He also used one to secure the take down lever and a larger one on the safety lever. My first Luger was missing these last two pins, but worked fine. I have since put some pins in to tighten up these levers.

[sheepherder]

I found a parts breakdown for the Erma unit...

[bigbuck]

Dear all, great forum!!

I just got the Erma Wechselsystem SE08/2 für 08 Pistolen, Kaliber 22lfB, for my 1917 P08.

Is there any vital part missing in the box? Or are all essential items in the box for safe shooting?

I assume it is a post war Wechselsystem but will fit to my model of 1917.

Any of your hints/experience on using this system are very welcome

Greetings from sunny Bavaria

bigbuck

[hayhugh]

From 9-11-2014: [QUOTE Will post photos when I get back to Fl. next month. ][/QUOTE]

kina forgot about this post -Will check out what I have next time I get over to my safe and report back.....sorry, Hugh

[wlyon]

bigbuck
Can't really tell from the photo but you should have an ejector and a rear joint bolt. Bill

[bigbuck]

Hello,

ejector and rear pin was hidden but included, lucky i am.

System works and now i have to find the best ammo therefore.

bigbuck

[DonVoigt]

Modern "hi-speed" .22 lr will be needed for most sub-caliber kits. Standard velocity ammo is not quite "hot" enough to function the toggle. At least that has been my experience.

The Germans elected to go with the longer barrel in the .22 kit to get just a little more velocity and better function from the kit. I believe this is explained in the Goertz and Sturgess book.