Luger Lubrication

azlaw · 03-22-2007, 02:27 PM

What is the guidance on lubrication for the Luger? I have been trained to use grease on automatic guns, is this also true of the Luger? The fit of the Luger seems quite a bit tighter than other guns I have used, and I wonder if they were designed for use with oil instead.

My usual grease is Lubriplate 130A, a lithium grease, and I use it on pretty much everything automatic.

H

Sieger · 03-22-2007, 10:17 PM

Hi Again:

Though I'll admit that I am a traditionalist, here is how I clean and lube my Lugers:

Initial cleaning after purchase and after heavy fowling from extended shooting, WD-40 to remove most of the heavy crud.

Hoppies No. 9 for the bore.

Hoppies Gun Oil for the lubrication of the moving parts and a clean barrel.

Lugers were built to very high (tight) tolerances. This is one reason they are so accurate. Thick grease to lubricate the tightly fitting parts is not in the make for me.

Some suggest that you not lube the firing pin and its channel, though it hasn't seemed to make any difference to me one way or the other.

Sieger

Edward Tinker · 03-22-2007, 10:30 PM

as Sieger said, Hoppes 9 reminds me of being a kid. I use it and then breakfree.

ed

Sieger · 03-24-2007, 02:16 AM

Ed:

I like the fact that Breakfree is an outstanding lube and preservative, but the smell, for some reason, is slightly irritating to me.

Oh well, who goes around smelling old Lugers anyway, I guess! Ha!!

The Hoppies gun oil isn't as an advanced a formula as the Breakfree, but it still works for me.

By the way, a few years ago, in one of the gun rags, they tried all of the commercially available lube/preservatives and Breakfree (CLP) scored the best in all tests.

Sieger

Tom Nowling · 03-24-2007, 12:15 PM

I have been using Breakfree for over 20 years with no rust problems.I used to be much more active with hunting in all kinds of weather and always cleaned and lubed with Breakfree.
Have always lived in Fla,(high humidity) and now live on a salt water canal in SW Fla. I keep my guns in a safe and usually check for rust pretty often but it does not seem to be an issue.Oh the old formulation of Breakfree used to smell better...LOL
I have used Tetra Teflon grease on my autos bearing surfaces with great results also.
Tom Nowling

rightwire · 04-09-2007, 01:10 AM

Does anyone here use Kroil?

Sieger · 04-09-2007, 02:35 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by rightwire
Does anyone here use Kroil?

Hi:

Kroil is a penetrating oil, not a lubricating oil.

I've tried it on some of my Mauser rifle bores, as the bench resters do, and haven't found it any better than using regular bore cleaner, if that.

Perhaps someone else has a different experience with it.

Sieger

rightwire · 04-09-2007, 12:14 PM

That is where I picked up using it... benchrest shooting.

Most of the guys I shot with used 2 parts Shooters Choice with 1 part Kroil. It really does make an amazing bore cleaner. I found that in my rifles with non-stainless or moly barrels it leaves a nice protective 'sheen' in the bore.

I used 100% Kroil as a lube on my new Luger, it shot a lot better than when I lubed it with Sinclair bolt grease.

rightwire · 04-09-2007, 12:14 PM

That is where I picked up using it... benchrest shooting.

Most of the guys I shot with used 2 parts Shooters Choice with 1 part Kroil. It really does make an amazing bore cleaner. I found that in my rifles with non-stainless or moly barrels it leaves a nice protective 'sheen' in the bore.

I used 100% Kroil as a lube on my new Luger, it shot a lot better than when I lubed it with Sinclair bolt grease.

Fishpaw1 · 04-09-2007, 03:25 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Sieger
Ed:

I like the fact that Breakfree is an outstanding lube and preservative, but the smell, for some reason, is slightly irritating to me.

Sieger

Im glad to hear im not the only one who doesnt like the smell of Breakfree. I dont mind Hoppes, or Remoil or even Gunscrubber for that matter. But for some reason, Breakfree smells really bad to me.

Augsburger · 04-10-2007, 04:35 PM

Slide Glide #1 for the top end...Lugers love the stuff

Luke · 04-12-2007, 05:05 PM

I have used Break Free CLP for rust prevention since I first started with Lugers, and I have never experienced any surface rust . . . even though I don't clean and reoil very frequently.

That's where the good news ends for me. Last week I bought another Winchester 63 rifle, took it out and ran 100 rounds through it. Worked perfectly. Then . . . I brought it home, cleaned it thoroughly with BreakFree Powder Blast, reoiled with CLP both outside and inside. The moving parts have a good coat of CLP and nothing else. Today I took it out and ran another 100 rounds of the same ammo through it and experienced at least 6 or 8 jams, because the gun just didn't cycle properly.

Yeah, I know, maybe some guns just like to be dirty.

Of course, it could be that I had a bad box of ammo today (CCI LR Solid Point MiniMags), but
I am wondering if CLP is simply a bad choice for the moving parts.
Has anyone else had this kind of experience?

Luke

Sieger · 04-13-2007, 12:10 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Luke
I have used Break Free CLP for rust prevention since I first started with Lugers, and I have never experienced any surface rust . . . even though I don't clean and reoil very frequently.

I am wondering if CLP is simply a bad choice for the moving parts.
Has anyone else had this kind of experience?

Luke

Dear Luke:

Break Free CLP is a bit thick, but remember, this is what the US Army is using in all normal climatic zones. Surely, they would have eliminated it years ago had there been any real problems.

Sieger

Ron Wood · 04-13-2007, 01:04 AM

Quote:

Break Free CLP is a bit thick, but remember, this is what the US Army is using in all normal climatic zones. Surely, they would have eliminated it years ago had there been any real problems.

But remember there is one heck of a lot of difference between a modern military high power action and an antique .22 auto rifle. Break Free CLP is a great lubricant, but it may not be the ideal solution for the weak recoil action of a .22 rifle. I think a light oil or silicon spray would be much more likely to facilitate reliable operation on the '63 Winchester.

CROLUGER · 05-23-2007, 03:43 PM

I use WD-40 for my Lugers, and other weapons.

Edward Tinker · 05-23-2007, 04:05 PM

WD-40 is not one of the best "oils" to use. WD stands for Water Displacement, so it is not a true gun oil, and although it works, it does not have the same properties as a gun oil would....

Ed

Hugh · 05-24-2007, 01:10 AM

I have been using Clenzoil for a couple of years now and seems to work fine, it smelled kinda funny at first but I'm beginning to like it, but not as well as Hoppes #9, that smell brings back so many pleasant memories.

Luke · 05-24-2007, 07:27 AM

Since my last posting on this subject I took note of Ron's comments about antique 22 rifles. Seemed like a reasonable hypothesis.

So, I thoroughly cleaned the rifle with BreakFree "Powder Blast" and immediately upon drying re-lubricated all the internal moving parts with Remoil (with teflon). I then applied a light coat of BreakFree CLP to the EXTERIOR metal only.

Since going to this process I have not experienced a single jam with this 60 year old 22 rifle. This has held true through about 700 rounds of CCI MiniMags and CCI Stingers. Conclusion: I think Ron's theory is correct; BreakFree CLP is a bit too thick or gummy for old 22 blowback-action rifles.

Luke

Vlim · 05-24-2007, 09:48 AM

Just want to add that recently an interesting study was done to the rust proofing properties of some of our favorite (and less favorit) gun oils, by our member Steinar.

One of the trials is still going, I believe.

tudorbug · 05-24-2007, 11:39 AM

I think that WD-40 is not only not an oil, but, if allowed to remain on a metal part for a vew months, it will turn into an adhesive paste. When that happens, it is not easy to remove.

I do clock repair as a hobby. The owner sprays the movement of a stopped clock with WD-40. After a few months the clock stops again because what seemed initially like a helpful lubricant has turned into a retarding paste. The clock then comes to me for repair and I have to clean the paste off as well as the other dried oil and dust that was covered by the spray of WD-40. I can then rebuild the movement by putting in bushings and polishing pivots and so forth.

I would avoid WD-40 like the plaque, except possibly for initial an cleaning followed quickly by its compete removal in favor of a lubricant that protects the metal underneath from corrosion.

Will WD-40 prevent rust? Because of the past it turns into, I believe it will. The problem arises when it is used on metal surfaces that are intended to slide over one another. There, it does not act like a lubricant.

David

03-22-2007, 10:17 PM	#2
Sieger User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: New York, NY Posts: 1,575 Thanks: 2,124 Thanked 400 Times in 249 Posts	Luger Lub Hi Again: Though I'll admit that I am a traditionalist, here is how I clean and lube my Lugers: Initial cleaning after purchase and after heavy fowling from extended shooting, WD-40 to remove most of the heavy crud. Hoppies No. 9 for the bore. Hoppies Gun Oil for the lubrication of the moving parts and a clean barrel. Lugers were built to very high (tight) tolerances. This is one reason they are so accurate. Thick grease to lubricate the tightly fitting parts is not in the make for me. Some suggest that you not lube the firing pin and its channel, though it hasn't seemed to make any difference to me one way or the other. Sieger

03-22-2007, 10:30 PM	#3
Edward Tinker Super Moderator Eternal Lifer LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: North of Spokane, WA Posts: 15,933 Thanks: 2,032 Thanked 4,530 Times in 2,092 Posts	as Sieger said, Hoppes 9 reminds me of being a kid. I use it and then breakfree. ed __________________ Edward Tinker ************ Co-Author of Police Lugers - Co-Author of Simson Lugers Author of Veteran Bring Backs Vol I, Vol II, Vol III and Vol IV

03-24-2007, 02:16 AM	#4
Sieger User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: New York, NY Posts: 1,575 Thanks: 2,124 Thanked 400 Times in 249 Posts	Breakfree Ed: I like the fact that Breakfree is an outstanding lube and preservative, but the smell, for some reason, is slightly irritating to me. Oh well, who goes around smelling old Lugers anyway, I guess! Ha!! The Hoppies gun oil isn't as an advanced a formula as the Breakfree, but it still works for me. By the way, a few years ago, in one of the gun rags, they tried all of the commercially available lube/preservatives and Breakfree (CLP) scored the best in all tests. Sieger

03-24-2007, 12:15 PM	#5
Tom Nowling User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: South Fla. Posts: 24 Thanks: 1 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Breakfree I have been using Breakfree for over 20 years with no rust problems.I used to be much more active with hunting in all kinds of weather and always cleaned and lubed with Breakfree. Have always lived in Fla,(high humidity) and now live on a salt water canal in SW Fla. I keep my guns in a safe and usually check for rust pretty often but it does not seem to be an issue.Oh the old formulation of Breakfree used to smell better...LOL I have used Tetra Teflon grease on my autos bearing surfaces with great results also. Tom Nowling

04-10-2007, 04:35 PM	#11
Augsburger User Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Tejas Posts: 160 Thanks: 17 Thanked 14 Times in 5 Posts	Slide Glide #1 for the top end...Lugers love the stuff __________________ Wilder Eber

03-22-2007, 02:27 PM	#1
azlaw User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Tucson, AZ Posts: 204 Thanks: 1 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts	Luger Lubrication What is the guidance on lubrication for the Luger? I have been trained to use grease on automatic guns, is this also true of the Luger? The fit of the Luger seems quite a bit tighter than other guns I have used, and I wonder if they were designed for use with oil instead. My usual grease is Lubriplate 130A, a lithium grease, and I use it on pretty much everything automatic. H

04-09-2007, 01:10 AM	#6
rightwire User Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Metro Detroit 'burbs Posts: 18 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Does anyone here use Kroil?

04-09-2007, 12:14 PM	#8
rightwire User Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Metro Detroit 'burbs Posts: 18 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	That is where I picked up using it... benchrest shooting. Most of the guys I shot with used 2 parts Shooters Choice with 1 part Kroil. It really does make an amazing bore cleaner. I found that in my rifles with non-stainless or moly barrels it leaves a nice protective 'sheen' in the bore. I used 100% Kroil as a lube on my new Luger, it shot a lot better than when I lubed it with Sinclair bolt grease.

04-12-2007, 05:05 PM	#12
Luke User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: NC - USA Posts: 1,239 Thanks: 0 Thanked 18 Times in 6 Posts	I have used Break Free CLP for rust prevention since I first started with Lugers, and I have never experienced any surface rust . . . even though I don't clean and reoil very frequently. That's where the good news ends for me. Last week I bought another Winchester 63 rifle, took it out and ran 100 rounds through it. Worked perfectly. Then . . . I brought it home, cleaned it thoroughly with BreakFree Powder Blast, reoiled with CLP both outside and inside. The moving parts have a good coat of CLP and nothing else. Today I took it out and ran another 100 rounds of the same ammo through it and experienced at least 6 or 8 jams, because the gun just didn't cycle properly. Yeah, I know, maybe some guns just like to be dirty. Of course, it could be that I had a bad box of ammo today (CCI LR Solid Point MiniMags), but I am wondering if CLP is simply a bad choice for the moving parts. Has anyone else had this kind of experience? Luke __________________ "Peace, if possible; truth, at any cost." . . . Martin Luther

05-23-2007, 03:43 PM	#15
CROLUGER User Join Date: May 2007 Location: Croatia. Posts: 134 Thanks: 0 Thanked 13 Times in 7 Posts	WD-40 I use WD-40 for my Lugers, and other weapons. __________________ Luger DWM 1915, Luger BYF 1942, Walther P-38 AC43 & CYQ 1944, Mauser Hsc, Steyr 1909, Frommer Stop 1916, SA XD HS 45, Beretta M34, M70, M72, M950B, 92FS, Browning 1910/22, CZ M-48, CZ PAP M59/66, Winchester 9422M, GLOCK 19.

05-23-2007, 04:05 PM	#16
Edward Tinker Super Moderator Eternal Lifer LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: North of Spokane, WA Posts: 15,933 Thanks: 2,032 Thanked 4,530 Times in 2,092 Posts	WD-40 is not one of the best "oils" to use. WD stands for Water Displacement, so it is not a true gun oil, and although it works, it does not have the same properties as a gun oil would.... Ed __________________ Edward Tinker ************ Co-Author of Police Lugers - Co-Author of Simson Lugers Author of Veteran Bring Backs Vol I, Vol II, Vol III and Vol IV

05-24-2007, 01:10 AM	#17
Hugh RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Southeast Texas Swamp Posts: 2,460 Thanks: 2 Thanked 165 Times in 64 Posts	I have been using Clenzoil for a couple of years now and seems to work fine, it smelled kinda funny at first but I'm beginning to like it, but not as well as Hoppes #9, that smell brings back so many pleasant memories. __________________ *TRUMP FOR PREZ IN '20!*

05-24-2007, 07:27 AM	#18
Luke User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: NC - USA Posts: 1,239 Thanks: 0 Thanked 18 Times in 6 Posts	FOLLOW UP Since my last posting on this subject I took note of Ron's comments about antique 22 rifles. Seemed like a reasonable hypothesis. So, I thoroughly cleaned the rifle with BreakFree "Powder Blast" and immediately upon drying re-lubricated all the internal moving parts with Remoil (with teflon). I then applied a light coat of BreakFree CLP to the EXTERIOR metal only. Since going to this process I have not experienced a single jam with this 60 year old 22 rifle. This has held true through about 700 rounds of CCI MiniMags and CCI Stingers. Conclusion: I think Ron's theory is correct; BreakFree CLP is a bit too thick or gummy for old 22 blowback-action rifles. Luke __________________ "Peace, if possible; truth, at any cost." . . . Martin Luther

05-24-2007, 09:48 AM	#19
Vlim Moderator Lifetime LugerForum Patron Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Europe Posts: 5,053 Thanks: 1,036 Thanked 3,988 Times in 1,205 Posts	Just want to add that recently an interesting study was done to the rust proofing properties of some of our favorite (and less favorit) gun oils, by our member Steinar. One of the trials is still going, I believe.

05-24-2007, 11:39 AM	#20
tudorbug Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Georgia Posts: 387 Thanks: 0 Thanked 40 Times in 29 Posts	I think that WD-40 is not only not an oil, but, if allowed to remain on a metal part for a vew months, it will turn into an adhesive paste. When that happens, it is not easy to remove. I do clock repair as a hobby. The owner sprays the movement of a stopped clock with WD-40. After a few months the clock stops again because what seemed initially like a helpful lubricant has turned into a retarding paste. The clock then comes to me for repair and I have to clean the paste off as well as the other dried oil and dust that was covered by the spray of WD-40. I can then rebuild the movement by putting in bushings and polishing pivots and so forth. I would avoid WD-40 like the plaque, except possibly for initial an cleaning followed quickly by its compete removal in favor of a lubricant that protects the metal underneath from corrosion. Will WD-40 prevent rust? Because of the past it turns into, I believe it will. The problem arises when it is used on metal surfaces that are intended to slide over one another. There, it does not act like a lubricant. David