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11-19-2011, 06:08 AM | #1 |
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1910 DWM P08. what parts should be strawed?
Hello. I am new to this forum although i have read a lot of interesting threads the time i has been here.
I live in Denmark and have just bought an All matching P08 from DWM manifactured in 1910. It takes about a month for my permit to get through before i can pick up the pistol so you can imagine how hard it is to wait... I apologize for the bad pictures in advance. Those are the pics i got from the seller and all i have at this point. I promise to make a new thread with high quality pics when i get the pistol. From the pictures it looks good but the ejector, mag release, safety lever, take down lever and the trigger seems to be blued. It is a bit hard to see from the pics. But from what ive learned in here those parts are supposed to be strawed on a 1910 DWM luger? They are marked correctly so they may have been cold blued at some point. I want to know if your advise would be to strip the bluing off gently and get the parts re-strawed so it can come back in its original configuration ( if it is not? ) I also got a holster and take down tool plus 2 matching mags. the price was amazingly low so no matter what i have got a greal deal. Thanks in advance. Christian S. |
11-19-2011, 06:31 AM | #2 | |
Lifer
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Here's a recent post on "strawed" parts, found through the "Search" function...
Quote:
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11-19-2011, 06:40 AM | #3 |
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Thanks for the quick reply!
i will browse the archives a bit and find what i am looking for. EDIT: i have looked around for a bit and learned that i can remove the bluing with white vinegar. i will not sand the parts if not neccesary because i dont want to make the parts look new and shiny. i do have one more question. i can see that there are several ways to straw parts. i saw the diagram that showed that i need about 230 degrees celsius to get the light golden color needed. but should i use an oven. a lighter or a propane torch? i know to quench the part in oil but i could use some advice on this because i dont want to do things wrong. thanks again. |
11-19-2011, 10:03 AM | #4 |
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For an even, correct color use an oven. Torches and other forms of focused heat will leave an uneven color and even some blueing in spots.
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11-19-2011, 10:06 AM | #5 |
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ok thanks.
should the parts be prepared in any way beyond removing the old bluing? should the parts be submerged in sand? and how long should the parts be in the oven? |
11-19-2011, 10:19 AM | #6 |
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Christian, Welcome to the Luger Forum!
Yes..You need to clean the parts with a good solvent to remove any grease or oils..even from your fingers when handeling. It is not necessary to bury the parts in sand. Just lay them on a small tray. The parts must stay in the oven untill it reaches the correct temperature. The books say once parts are correct..remove them and put oil on them as they may continue to heat from the soak. It's all easier than you think!
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11-20-2011, 06:29 AM | #7 |
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Thanks. this forum is truly filled with good information!
i think i will try out the technique on some other small metal parts i have laying around to get used to it. theres still 3 weeks till my permit gets through so sadly i have plenty of time to practice |
11-20-2011, 07:59 AM | #8 | |
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Quote:
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11-20-2011, 08:18 AM | #9 |
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What parts should be added to the FAQ
Can someone add it please?
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