Paint for Safety

[captcraig]

Does anyone know where to get paint for the "Gesichert" on a PO*?

[lugerholsterrepair]

Bryan, This paint, originally applied at the factory, was an enamel. It is not a white but a cream color..beige one might call it.

I suspect that if you had a few colors of "Testors" modeling enamel paint you could make up the right color with a little mixing.

[captcraig]

Thanks for the reply, I will wait and see if someone else knows of a supplier before I try my hand at mixing paint, not sure if I could pull that off

[Olle]

Originally Posted by lugerholsterrepair

I suspect that if you had a few colors of "Testors" modeling enamel paint you could make up the right color with a little mixing.

Testors has a color called "Light Ivory", which I have used on a few guns. It may not be 100% correct, but it's close enough for me.

[wmdrew]

Here you go. This should do and comes in many colors.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=7...QUER_STIK_reg_
Cheers, Bill

[policeluger]

white stick from Brownell's.

[lugerholsterrepair]

Howard, From a technical point of view... a grease pencil approach to replacing the missing enamel paint on the Gesichert safety marking area is abhorrent.

In the restoration work I do I strive to be as accurate and original as I can possibly be. Any other approach is alien to me.

The Gesichert safety marking was originally painted with enamel and that's what should be used.

[policeluger]

I have been put in my place, and shall remain.......

[lugerholsterrepair]

Howard, I am not here to put you or anyone else in their place..It's just that many people don't know what was in there to begin with. If I were trying to accurately restore a pistol to original specs I would use enamel paint.
yes, white stick from Brownell's would certainly work and make it show up but to what end? I am the type of collector who wouldn't do that but it may be OK for others. It's not permanent so no real damage.
We don't know what type of collector Bryan is so your idea may be as good as mine for him.

[Ron Wood]

No "places to be put" here...just an exchange of ideas. Thanks to both of you.

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by lugerholsterrepair

Bryan, This paint, originally applied at the factory, was an enamel...

Can you explain *how* it was applied??? In the past, I've tried dabbing it in the stampings and then tried to wipe off the excess...Doesn't work...the rag pulls up *all* the paint...

[lugerholsterrepair]

Rich, I would guess a squeegee approach would be best. I had an extensive conversation with a Luger restorer who does this and that's how he did it. I wouldn't get too agressive with residual paint left behind but let it stiffen up and peel or scrape it (gently with wood or plastic)when it's dry. Just be sure to squeegee off the letters leaving them full of enamel. A rubber spatula perhaps?
If I were doing it I would remove the safety lever for a clear flat area to work. The fellow I know did a spectacular job, matched the color exactly too. He did this after bluing..

One other approach I might consider if I were doing it is a hypodermic needle. Use a very fine needle and gently ease the paint into each letter. Might work better than the squeegee method..

[Ice]

A fine tipped camel hair artists brush works well for applying enamel. Application is very precise and the brush cleans up well for reuse later.

Charlie

[Norme]

I've noticed that the paint on older guns is noticeably yellower than that on newer guns. It's my belief that they were all originally white. Anyone have any thoughts on this? Regards, Norm

[G.T.]

Hello to all, as with everything that concerns Lugers.. replacing the enamal in the safety area, is not an operation that can be done correctly without a little learning curve and patiences / practice ...... The enamal (testors plastic model paints) can be mixed correctly to obtain the exact shade of off white needed.. you just have to test a few combinations, and let them both dry & age a'bit.. To apply, you can just fill in the recess, and then wait a'bit, (hours, days???) then mop up the residue, using thinner or acetone dampened cloth... ... not too much wiping, as it'll all disappear... now... you really have to wait a'bit, (might accelerate with heat) for the enamal to cure... I'm talking months!!!!.. Then try to wipe it out of the recess with anything... almost bulletproof!! .........I believe the originals were filled with white and red lead, art based filler for these types of applications... But I certainly could be wrong, as I can't really back it up with any printed resources.. best to all, til...lat'r....GT

[captcraig]

Wow, thank you to everyone for there replies. I would like to restore the gun to original specs. So with that said does any one know where to purchase the enamel paint and in what color?

Bryan

[G.T.]

Hi Bryan, any toy store hobby shop... it's just testors enamal model paint... The ivory suggestion has merit also, and as inexpensive as the paints are... you might want to try it also.. I used white and yellow... and just used drops for trial and error... (example: 20 drops white, 1 drop yellow, mix, mix, mix!!) etc... I think originally they just used white.. the off white you're trying to replicate is just a century of aging!....let us know how it works out... remember, time and patience... ...best to you, til...lat'r...GT
Oops! almost forgot! You really have to pre-clean the area to be filled.. acetone works well...

[lugerholsterrepair]

GT..Good advice! I have painted metal parts here in the shop and it essentially dries enough to handle it in 24 hours but it's still not dry! A thin coat here in the dry desert might be a week or more before it's very dry and longer than that for any kind of use. If you were to make it thick enough to fill the letters..you are probably right..could take one heck of a long time!

[Wilhelm]

I've gone the testors route on various firearms before. It is tedious and requires trial and error as well as lots of patience . The trick is to do it over and over again until you build up the paint in the recessed area. You put paint on and then wipe off the extra which pulls up some of what you don't want pulled up. Let it dry and repeat until you get the height that you want. The good part is that it's just paint on metal and you can't really screw anything up. If you get too sloppy, a squirt of carb cleaner and a rag makes it like it never happened.

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by Wilhelm

The trick is to do it over and over again until you build up the paint in the recessed area. You put paint on and then wipe off the extra which pulls up some of what you don't want pulled up. Let it dry and repeat until you get the height that you want.

Ah! That aspect of the process has never been mentioned (in my readings). Thanks!