Locking Bolt Spring help

[Shooter629]

Tried dropping in a locking bolt spring an it fit fine, but the Locking Bolt would not move into the frame. Tried a number of different ways to install but no luck, they would snap?

Certain way to install? Need a tool? Did they come in different sizes?

Any help would be great.

Thank you in advance

[Edward Tinker]

Usually they will fit in and they will click down or pop down once you turn the locking bolt. but you might have to reach in with a screwdriver and gently push it down till it clicks / pops all the way

but that should have nothing to do with the toggle??

That spring doesn’t look right but might ne the angle / close up...

[Shooter629]

Originally Posted by Edward Tinker

Usually they will fit in and they will click down or pop down once you turn the locking bolt. but you might have to reach in with a screwdriver and gently push it down till it clicks / pops all the way

but that should have nothing to do with the toggle??

That spring doesn’t look right but might ne the angle / close up...

I'm wondering if the part is wrong? Was to say locking bolt, I'll fix that.

Thanks

[DonVoigt]

Some locking bolt springs are a little "large", i.e. they are too tall when installed and the bolt won't slide in.

Last 2 I installed had to be ground down slighty, very slightly on the top of the "L", the part you can see when the spring is installed in its slot.

Just a little! it is not very thick. I used a small stone on a dremel tool; springs are hard so they won't cut with a file, if they do they are not good springs! Hold the spring by the short leg in a pair of vice grips.

[4 Scale]

I removed/inspected the spring in one of my pistols, and it looks just like the picture in post #1 - Ed can you be more specific about what does not look right?

To the best of my knowledge, at least in New Model Parabellums that spring didn't change (I haven't checked my Old Model), nor is there any specialized install tool.

My own modest experience with this part is that it's a typical Luger replacement part- sometimes fits perfect, sometimes needs minor fitting, and sometimes it doesn't fit.

My suggestions:
1. With no spring in place, verify that the takedown lever inserts with no obstruction, thereby isolating the problem to the spring.
2. Using small non-marring tools like toothpicks, with the spring removed carefully and thoroughly clean the area, also clean the spring and takedown lever then lightly lube.
3. Exert pressure on the spring to get it to seat per Ed's advice. The part that goes into the trigger guard should be flush or very slightly outside the the bottom the trigger guard.
4. Use firm pressure or even light taps from a rubber or wooden mallet to push the takedown lever into place. Be careful to line the takedown lever up perfectly with the hole on the right side of the pistol that receives it.
5. If this doesn't work consider fine polishing the spring. I start with emory cloth. But be careful, it is possible to easily polish too much and make things loose.

Good luck and please let us know the resolution.

[Edward Tinker]

Originally Posted by 4 Scale

I removed/inspected the spring in one of my pistols, and it looks just like the picture in post #1 - Ed can you be more specific about what does not look right?

.

It just looked thicker - again, might just be the angle and size, since its a small small part

[mrerick]

The scaling on the surface is odd, and the cut is much wider than the springs I have inspected.

Possibly, the alloy is different from that used in the original springs, and the cut is wider and deeper in order to compensate. Most of those you find after an image Google search on "luger locking bolt spring" have a narrower cut which is off center.

Here's an example:

https://image.sportsmansguide.com/ad...6/60725_ts.jpg

[ithacaartist]

If you can get the nose of the lever's shaft started over the spring, it should fit. It is more usual than not to encounter great resistance from the spring. The shaft must travel along the same axis it winds up on when in place. The spring might be small, but it is stiff--big-time. Before removing any material from the spring--with a fine diamond needle file--it's best to first give the installation your best efforts while the frame is clamped into a padded vice, and some padded small vise grips to hold the lever firmly enough to control its orientation positively. Banging the shaft into place with the padded mallet won''t work at all unless it remains lined up!

[Shooter629]

Thank you everyone, I'm ordering a replacement an will give all a try. Will post the outcome.

Thank you.

[DonVoigt]

Originally Posted by Shooter629

Thank you everyone, I'm ordering a replacement an will give all a try. Will post the outcome.

Thank you.

If you have ordered anything other than an original retainer spring, you are likely to have the same issue.

[Shooter629]

How can I tell if I'm buying a original? Last one had no markings at all.

[DonVoigt]

Originally Posted by Shooter629

How can I tell if I'm buying a original? Last one had no markings at all.

None have markings; one has to depend on the dealer.
From whom did you order?

Lugerdoc could have originals, Sarco and Numrich likely reproduction unless specifically described as original.

Others, who knows?

I don't understand any reluctance to fit the one you have so that it works. Even if you "destroy" it, you have not lost anything as it does not work now.

As I said in my first post, a little grinding, or as someone said file with a diamond file, will do the trick- it does not take much.

[ithacaartist]

Installing the spring is easy in theory, but don't underestimate the oomph needed to get the lever into place. The spring will be constantly forcing the shaft's axis off-center, and this must be overcome for most of its jurney. One member wrestled with his for quite a while, IIRC, a utility sink was involved as his sturdy, finish-friendly thing against which to push... Once accomplished, you'll have seen how it goes, and there's a next one, it will be much easier.

[Zorba]

Originally Posted by ithacaartist

Installing the spring is easy in theory, but don't underestimate the oomph needed to get the lever into place. The spring will be constantly forcing the shaft's axis off-center, and this must be overcome for most of its journey. One member wrestled with his for quite a while, IIRC, a utility sink was involved as his sturdy, finish-friendly thing against which to push... Once accomplished, you'll have seen how it goes, and there's a next one, it will be much easier.

That was me. That thing was a bearcat to get installed, but I got it done in the end. Then it took a while (read: number of actuations) for the takedown lever to loosen up to a "usable" state - but all's well now!

[ithacaartist]

Originally Posted by Zorba

That was me. That thing was a bearcat to get installed, but I got it done in the end. Then it took a while (read: number of actuations) for the takedown lever to loosen up to a "usable" state - but all's well now!

Yep, I remember...just didn't want to be a name-dropper! I assure you that the imagery you gave us was unforgettable!

[Thor]

I usually check the fit from the outside holding the long side and putting the shaft down in the hole and rotate it to make sure it is not over size. Then oil the hole in the frame and I usually take a small tip of a toothpick on the right side in the groove, this will lift the long side slightly up and the peg/shaft will go into the hole better. Use a small pin punch and light ball peen and lightly tap it into the hole and remove the toothpick to the right and check the fit with a couple of light taps of the punch. DONT force it or it might break. Then as you install the bolt you should feel resistance on the right side as the round part of the bolt is lifted slighty above the larger hole in the frame. This is indicating that the spring is doing its job and pushing up on the bottom of the bolt. Push down on the bot as you push right on the flat side to get it in place VOILA......or something like that. DONT USE a HUGE THOR HAMMER!!