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12-01-2004, 06:19 PM | #1 |
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Luger Magazine Cleaning??
Hi folks. Just picked up a 1929 Swiss with brown grips and the mags are real greasy inside. What is the best way to clean them? They dont look like they readily come apart. Thanks for any assist and sorry for the dumb newbie question.
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12-02-2004, 10:44 AM | #2 |
Lifer
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Don't use anything like brake cleaner because it will eat the mag bottom...
I suggest that you get a loading tool if you don't have one alread, and use it to help hold the follower button down to the lowest position while you swab out the insides of the mag with a soft lint free rag that has been wet down with CLP break free... This will help clean out the grease, and lubricate the insides at the same time. Don't ever remove an original mag bottom unless you are going to replace because it is broken or very loose... you will NEVER get it to fit back like it was when originally manufactured. And don't sweat what you think are newbie questions... this forum is all about sharing information and educating the new generation of gun appreciators... no matter how old you are... Us old-timers learn something new every day too.
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12-02-2004, 11:44 AM | #3 |
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Thanks John !! Appreciate the info. Where would I get an original loading tool for a 1929 Swiss rig? I took the gun to the range yesterday. Flawless functioning and deadly accurate. I can see why people get hooked on these guns. But loading the mags is a pain. I can still feel it in my fingers.
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12-02-2004, 12:09 PM | #4 |
Lifer
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You can get a good functional and original German loading tool from Tom Heller (Lugerdoc) for reasonable money. If you want an original Swiss tool and Tom doesn't have any, we have a member named "Swissdaggers" who is a gun dealer in Switzerland... where you can get one from the source. You will find Lugerdoc hanging around the "For Sale" and the
"Wanted" forums... You can ask Pete Ebbink how to get in touch with Swissdaggers in the Swiss Luger forum.
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12-02-2004, 01:42 PM | #5 |
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You can also knock out the steel pin that holds the bottom wood, or plastic, in place, remove the spring and soak all the metal parts in Hoppes over night. You'll be amazed at how the crud will disolve and almost drain off.
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12-02-2004, 02:32 PM | #6 |
Lifer
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Originally posted by JimD:
<strong>You can also knock out the steel pin that holds the bottom wood, or plastic, in place...</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Jim, that is exactly what I was warning against in my post above... once the factory crimp on an original pin is defeated, it will NEVER fit the same, and will have a tendency to slide one way or the other at the least opportune time and permanently damage the tube hole by enlarging it, as you attempt to seat the magazine in the pistol. I do not recommend removal of an original mag bottom except for necessary repairs.
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12-02-2004, 08:00 PM | #7 |
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Thanks for the warning John!
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12-02-2004, 08:40 PM | #8 |
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Point taken, John. It all depends on one's smithing abilities and tools. So far I've been successful with re-staking the pins but you're right, it can be a real problem.
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12-02-2004, 08:59 PM | #9 |
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Yikes ! How would one go about restaking the pin after it has been removed JimD? In case I ever need to do it.
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