Original Finish?

Don · 09-09-2001, 05:10 PM

I was browsing a local gunshop this weekend, and briefly examined a 1939 "41." The finish was beautiful -- 99%. No pitting -- just a little wear on the side plate, at least according to a cursory look. The grips appeared original, but with some big, deep gashes -- that appeared to be of recent origin becasue the wood in the gashes was still almost white. Bore was excellent. I didn't examine the gun any further, but the dealer said they had stripped and all the numbers appeared to match. He didn't make any claims about the finish being original; we both assumed it was refinished.

Here's my question: Are there any good tips on assessing the originality of a dipped blue finish? Other than pitting that has been blued over? Thanks, guys.

Thor · 09-09-2001, 05:37 PM

I assume you meant "42" instead of the posted "41" Manufacture code?

Don · 09-10-2001, 12:48 AM

Oops! Yep!

Craig · 09-10-2001, 03:25 AM

Hi Don,

Here are some things to watch for:

Look at the sear bar lever, that bar that appears and disappears as the safety is operated. It's supposed to be bare steel. If it is blued the gun has been dipped.

Check the coupling link, that T-bar S-curved piece which connects the toggle to the mainspring assembly. It also should not be blued.

Rebluers often doen't take the time to completely disassemble the gun, and parts get blued which shouldn't be.

Check the back of the frame for evidence of the toggle comming to a stop in full recoil. There should be two little square marks or partial marks where the blue is gone. If the marks are there the pistol may still have been reblued, but if they're not there the gun is unfired, little fired, or reblued.

1936 and earlier lugers have some strawed parts. Knowing whether parts are supposed to be strawed or blued can alert to a reblue.

The preceeding were my thoughts, modifications and corrections are welcome, for low I am but mortal.

An I'm not usin that stinkin spell checker cause I know how to spell looger. Now where's my 1939 43 code. (jes jokin)

Craig

Don · 09-10-2001, 11:19 AM

Thanks, Craig. I didn't strip the gun that day, in fact I wasn't going to even THINK about buying another Luger for a long time. But sometimes the bug bites ... or at least nibbles a little.

One possible clue that I now recall: The exjector was strawed, which even I as a confused newbie know is not appropriate. But I guess that doesn't tell us much.

09-09-2001, 05:10 PM	#1
Don User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Texas Posts: 146 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Original Finish? I was browsing a local gunshop this weekend, and briefly examined a 1939 "41." The finish was beautiful -- 99%. No pitting -- just a little wear on the side plate, at least according to a cursory look. The grips appeared original, but with some big, deep gashes -- that appeared to be of recent origin becasue the wood in the gashes was still almost white. Bore was excellent. I didn't examine the gun any further, but the dealer said they had stripped and all the numbers appeared to match. He didn't make any claims about the finish being original; we both assumed it was refinished. Here's my question: Are there any good tips on assessing the originality of a dipped blue finish? Other than pitting that has been blued over? Thanks, guys.

09-09-2001, 05:37 PM	#2
Thor User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico Posts: 4,583 Thanks: 958 Thanked 970 Times in 276 Posts	Re: Original Finish? I assume you meant "42" instead of the posted "41" Manufacture code?

09-10-2001, 12:48 AM	#3
Don User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Texas Posts: 146 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Original Finish? Oops! Yep!

09-10-2001, 03:25 AM	#4
Craig User Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Texas Posts: 40 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Original Finish? Hi Don, Here are some things to watch for: Look at the sear bar lever, that bar that appears and disappears as the safety is operated. It's supposed to be bare steel. If it is blued the gun has been dipped. Check the coupling link, that T-bar S-curved piece which connects the toggle to the mainspring assembly. It also should not be blued. Rebluers often doen't take the time to completely disassemble the gun, and parts get blued which shouldn't be. Check the back of the frame for evidence of the toggle comming to a stop in full recoil. There should be two little square marks or partial marks where the blue is gone. If the marks are there the pistol may still have been reblued, but if they're not there the gun is unfired, little fired, or reblued. 1936 and earlier lugers have some strawed parts. Knowing whether parts are supposed to be strawed or blued can alert to a reblue. The preceeding were my thoughts, modifications and corrections are welcome, for low I am but mortal. An I'm not usin that stinkin spell checker cause I know how to spell looger. Now where's my 1939 43 code. (jes jokin) Craig

09-10-2001, 11:19 AM	#5
Don User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Texas Posts: 146 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Thanks! Thanks, Craig. I didn't strip the gun that day, in fact I wasn't going to even THINK about buying another Luger for a long time. But sometimes the bug bites ... or at least nibbles a little. One possible clue that I now recall: The exjector was strawed, which even I as a confused newbie know is not appropriate. But I guess that doesn't tell us much.