Need help starting first cleaning of new to me 1906 AE

flomofo · 12-02-2011, 01:09 AM

I just picked it up and took photos to post here but have it apart right now and just have a quick question.

It looks to be all original and in good shape with a lot of the blue left on it.

I bought Corrosion X for the first time and am wondering if I can douse the gun parts, bore, springs etc. in the corrosion X and then let it sit covered in oil in a plastic bag overnight until I can get to it either friday or over the weekend?

Also not sure how to preserve the grips until I can clean them as well.

The goal is to just really clean and then preserve the gun with no restoration.

flomofo · 12-02-2011, 01:21 AM

Forgot to add I also have other cleaners such as CLP or CLP pro if they are "softer" on the finishes found on the gun.

I also plan on buying Eezox...

ithacaartist · 12-02-2011, 10:49 AM

Flo,

Welcome to Lugerforum!

I'm wondering why you're considering what sounds possibly an extreme measure under the circumstances. How corroded is this pistol? Why would it be necessary to do more than a soak in Kroil, which penetrates, and loosens rust; or a quick cleaning of the parts with Hoppe's No.9 --and a wipedown with a soft cloth and a couple drops of light oil.

Post as many photos of your Luger as you can. This will accomplish two things: 1) It will help ensure that the advice you get is more accurate than advice based on no pictures. 2) It will document your Luger, its existence, condition, and its issues. 3) It will satisfy the ongoing lust of all us forum members to at least see as many pics of Lugers as we can.

For collectibility, remember: Less is more. But please wait for others to contribute and comment on your posting before you do or don't do something to your gun. After gathering opinions of the experienced people available to you on this forum, I suggest your decisions will be best informed.

lugerholsterrepair · 12-02-2011, 11:35 AM

I always use paint thinner. Otherwise known as mineral spririts. Does a good job, not harsh and evaporates right off with a little compressed air.
Then I use a shaving brush with household..sewing machine oil. If it's one I plan to shoot I also put a little white grease on the rails.

Like David says above..Just keep it simple.

flomofo · 12-02-2011, 07:45 PM

Pics up soon as soon as I find the wire for the camera...

flomofo · 12-02-2011, 10:51 PM

flomofo · 12-02-2011, 10:57 PM

The gun has a lot of finish left on it, I just wanted to soak it because those areas that look like rust are mostly dirt and grime that wipes off and reveals more finish underneath.

Luckily the grime seemed to be very dry because there a few exposed areas of metal from holster type wear which look like clean metal.

lugerholsterrepair · 12-02-2011, 11:38 PM

Flo..A fine looking pistol..If it were mine I would give it a good bath with mineral spirits and a toothbrush. Then dip it in motor oil and work over the red rust areas with 0000 steel wool dipped in oil. As long as it's oil soaked it won't harm the rust blue. Once you think you have the rust off dip it back in your bucket of paint thinner and look it over in bright sunlight. You will see the places you missed.

You might want to consider further breakdown of parts like removing the sear, the grip safety, magazine button, holdopen and many of the parts under which rust and grime hide if you want to do a really bangup job of it. A lot of manual labor and attention to detail...Be sure you take a stiff brush to the mainspring area..lots O gunk in there!

flomofo · 12-03-2011, 12:18 AM

Ya I was trying to find a video or thread to explain the proper way to break things down further even though it seems basic looking at it.

I also wanted it to sit in the corrosion X a little while longer, it really doesnt do any harm being as it is more of a penetrator, just needed to stop the grime from getting worse as I only have CLP or stronger solvents I did not want to put on the gun like Hoppes Elite and Hoppes No 9.

So pure mineral oil then the steel wool with oil?

I was actually thinking about playing it safer and stripping it completely then using a low solvent protectant lke corrosion X or CLP to wipe it clean a little at a time each time I clean it, then using Eezox to begin removing rust and protect the finish....

Im scared to put steel wool on it.

Also can anyone provide any history on this gun, maybe build date which I think is around 1920? Also a range on value, I think it might be worth just preserving this one.

DavidJayUden · 12-03-2011, 12:24 AM

There are good videos on youtube that will help in disassembly and re assembly.
dju

flomofo · 12-03-2011, 12:32 AM

Thanks, a you tube video actually just got me this far.

I know nothing about the manual of arms for this gun even after reading up on their history over the last couple months.

mrerick · 12-03-2011, 10:15 AM

Hi Flo,

Welcome to the forum! You've got a very nice American Eagle Luger in original finish.

A large retail dealer like Simpsons can give you an idea of the insurance value of your pistol. Check these listings...

Luger collectors value a Luger as close to original factory state as possible. Original finish, all matching parts. You have these things in your Luger, and it is very collectible.

Remember as you approach stabilizing the red oxidation taking place on your pistol that there is always going to be some level of red oxide present on an older gun. This is actually evidence of the original state of the finish (which was rust blued, with strawing done on several small parts - the golden ones). It is easy to go overboard on "cleaning up" your Luger.

I would be very conservative about doing anything with the wooden grips or magazine bottom(s). They can be gently cleaned, but part of the aged appearance of the wood will be affected by cleaning. Oil based soaps designed for cleaning wood can be used, but they can also be too harsh if heavily used.

G. T. on this forum (Gerald Tomak) is an expert on magazine repair and restoration. I personally would not dis-assemble a magazine, but would be more comfortable sending it to him for any needed work.

So, best advice is to go slow, gentle and just do enough to stabilize the finish and prevent future red oxidation. Certainly some can be slowly removed to help with the stabilization process, but there should always be some red deep in the blue-black finish.

Also remember that many of the new relatively exotic chemicals sold for gun cleaning didn't exist when our Lugers were originally made and maintained.

Marc

flomofo · 12-03-2011, 03:47 PM

Thanks that helps clarify what I wanted to do better than the way I said it.

I'm trying to just wipe off the grime with a protectant layer applied and the gun, grips and magazine will probably all be sent out.

Would you guys send pieces out to different people or just send the whole thing out to one person?

I assume sending it to each person is faster than sending the whole thing to say Thor, since he has a bunch of work to usually do.

I also wanted to take out and replace some of the more fragile parts like the different springs and store them separately in a corrosion protectant and sealed bag.

The grips and magazine I havent done anything with, I just separated them from the parts I'm cleaning.

lugerholsterrepair · 12-03-2011, 03:58 PM

Marc has given excellent advice..

G. T. on this forum (Gerald Tomak) is an expert on magazine repair and restoration. I personally would not dis-assemble a magazine, but would be more comfortable sending it to him for any needed work.

I just had a wood bottom magazine tuned up and cleaned by GT and he did an excellent job. Quick turnaround and at a reasonable price.

flomofo · 12-03-2011, 04:34 PM

I'll start there first, and I can send the grips to be cleaned as well there?

I'll try and find him here.

flomofo · 12-04-2011, 08:25 PM

The magazine should be on its way out and hopefully the grips will go out soon for a cleaning as well.

Also thinking of having a good smith check it out before I try and shoot it once at a later date.

After that I have to buy another Luger I can shoot without fear and another Luger thats more collectable than this one ....

Also can one of you guys help me with getting some info on my pistol like build year etc?

DavidJayUden · 12-04-2011, 08:31 PM

Hugh Clark is our grip guru if you need them restored.
dju

flomofo · 12-05-2011, 06:31 PM

Contacted him now as well.

Thank You.

Anybody able to to tell me anything about my gun with the serial number?

Lugerdoc · 12-06-2011, 10:37 AM

I believe that your M1906AE was made prior to 1908, since the 1908 commerical began appearing in the 39xxx serial number range according to "Lugers at Random". I wouldn't be shy about removing any active rust with solvent and a wire brush and keep those areas well oiled to keep the rust from coming back. Be careful when removing the grip safety, not to break it's spring. If you do, I have replacements available @$35. I'M SURPRISED that no one has commented on the extra piece of metal on the inside of the mag well on the right side of the frame! This would appear to be some type of repair, as the bottom of the back strap also appear a bit odd. I've never seen this before. How about you" TH

MFC · 12-07-2011, 02:44 AM

Tom,
Please explain further what it is your seeing. Everything looks normal to me.

12-02-2011, 01:09 AM	#1
flomofo User Join Date: Nov 2011 Posts: 18 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Need help starting first cleaning of new to me 1906 AE I just picked it up and took photos to post here but have it apart right now and just have a quick question. It looks to be all original and in good shape with a lot of the blue left on it. I bought Corrosion X for the first time and am wondering if I can douse the gun parts, bore, springs etc. in the corrosion X and then let it sit covered in oil in a plastic bag overnight until I can get to it either friday or over the weekend? Also not sure how to preserve the grips until I can clean them as well. The goal is to just really clean and then preserve the gun with no restoration.

12-02-2011, 01:21 AM	#2
flomofo User Join Date: Nov 2011 Posts: 18 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	... Forgot to add I also have other cleaners such as CLP or CLP pro if they are "softer" on the finishes found on the gun. I also plan on buying Eezox...

12-02-2011, 11:35 AM	#4
lugerholsterrepair Moderator Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Arizona/Colorado Posts: 7,761 Thanks: 4,852 Thanked 3,101 Times in 1,427 Posts	I always use paint thinner. Otherwise known as mineral spririts. Does a good job, not harsh and evaporates right off with a little compressed air. Then I use a shaving brush with household..sewing machine oil. If it's one I plan to shoot I also put a little white grease on the rails. Like David says above..Just keep it simple. __________________ Jerry Burney 11491 S. Guadalupe Drive Yuma AZ 85367-6182 lugerholsterrepair@earthlink.net 928 342-7583 (CO & AZ) Year Round 719 207-3331 (cell) "For those who Fight For It, Life has a flavor the protected will never know."

12-02-2011, 07:45 PM	#5
flomofo User Join Date: Nov 2011 Posts: 18 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	... Pics up soon as soon as I find the wire for the camera...

12-02-2011, 10:51 PM	#6
flomofo User Join Date: Nov 2011 Posts: 18 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Last edited by flomofo; 07-13-2012 at 04:16 PM.

12-02-2011, 10:49 AM	#3
ithacaartist Twice a Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Atop the highest hill in Schuyler County NY Posts: 3,284 Thanks: 7,013 Thanked 2,478 Times in 1,320 Posts	Flo, Welcome to Lugerforum! I'm wondering why you're considering what sounds possibly an extreme measure under the circumstances. How corroded is this pistol? Why would it be necessary to do more than a soak in Kroil, which penetrates, and loosens rust; or a quick cleaning of the parts with Hoppe's No.9 --and a wipedown with a soft cloth and a couple drops of light oil. Post as many photos of your Luger as you can. This will accomplish two things: 1) It will help ensure that the advice you get is more accurate than advice based on no pictures. 2) It will document your Luger, its existence, condition, and its issues. 3) It will satisfy the ongoing lust of all us forum members to at least see as many pics of Lugers as we can. For collectibility, remember: Less is more. But please wait for others to contribute and comment on your posting before you do or don't do something to your gun. After gathering opinions of the experienced people available to you on this forum, I suggest your decisions will be best informed.

12-02-2011, 10:57 PM	#7
flomofo User Join Date: Nov 2011 Posts: 18 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	... The gun has a lot of finish left on it, I just wanted to soak it because those areas that look like rust are mostly dirt and grime that wipes off and reveals more finish underneath. Luckily the grime seemed to be very dry because there a few exposed areas of metal from holster type wear which look like clean metal.

12-02-2011, 11:38 PM	#8
lugerholsterrepair Moderator Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Arizona/Colorado Posts: 7,761 Thanks: 4,852 Thanked 3,101 Times in 1,427 Posts	Flo..A fine looking pistol..If it were mine I would give it a good bath with mineral spirits and a toothbrush. Then dip it in motor oil and work over the red rust areas with 0000 steel wool dipped in oil. As long as it's oil soaked it won't harm the rust blue. Once you think you have the rust off dip it back in your bucket of paint thinner and look it over in bright sunlight. You will see the places you missed. You might want to consider further breakdown of parts like removing the sear, the grip safety, magazine button, holdopen and many of the parts under which rust and grime hide if you want to do a really bangup job of it. A lot of manual labor and attention to detail...Be sure you take a stiff brush to the mainspring area..lots O gunk in there! __________________ Jerry Burney 11491 S. Guadalupe Drive Yuma AZ 85367-6182 lugerholsterrepair@earthlink.net 928 342-7583 (CO & AZ) Year Round 719 207-3331 (cell) "For those who Fight For It, Life has a flavor the protected will never know."

12-03-2011, 12:18 AM	#9
flomofo User Join Date: Nov 2011 Posts: 18 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	... Ya I was trying to find a video or thread to explain the proper way to break things down further even though it seems basic looking at it. I also wanted it to sit in the corrosion X a little while longer, it really doesnt do any harm being as it is more of a penetrator, just needed to stop the grime from getting worse as I only have CLP or stronger solvents I did not want to put on the gun like Hoppes Elite and Hoppes No 9. So pure mineral oil then the steel wool with oil? I was actually thinking about playing it safer and stripping it completely then using a low solvent protectant lke corrosion X or CLP to wipe it clean a little at a time each time I clean it, then using Eezox to begin removing rust and protect the finish.... Im scared to put steel wool on it. Also can anyone provide any history on this gun, maybe build date which I think is around 1920? Also a range on value, I think it might be worth just preserving this one.

12-03-2011, 12:24 AM	#10
DavidJayUden Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 4,047 Thanks: 578 Thanked 1,414 Times in 887 Posts	There are good videos on youtube that will help in disassembly and re assembly. dju

12-03-2011, 12:32 AM	#11
flomofo User Join Date: Nov 2011 Posts: 18 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Thanks, a you tube video actually just got me this far. I know nothing about the manual of arms for this gun even after reading up on their history over the last couple months.

12-03-2011, 10:15 AM	#12
mrerick Super Moderator - Patron LugerForum Life Patron Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Eastern North Carolina, USA Posts: 3,900 Thanks: 1,372 Thanked 3,094 Times in 1,503 Posts	Hi Flo, Welcome to the forum! You've got a very nice American Eagle Luger in original finish. A large retail dealer like Simpsons can give you an idea of the insurance value of your pistol. Check these listings... Luger collectors value a Luger as close to original factory state as possible. Original finish, all matching parts. You have these things in your Luger, and it is very collectible. Remember as you approach stabilizing the red oxidation taking place on your pistol that there is always going to be some level of red oxide present on an older gun. This is actually evidence of the original state of the finish (which was rust blued, with strawing done on several small parts - the golden ones). It is easy to go overboard on "cleaning up" your Luger. I would be very conservative about doing anything with the wooden grips or magazine bottom(s). They can be gently cleaned, but part of the aged appearance of the wood will be affected by cleaning. Oil based soaps designed for cleaning wood can be used, but they can also be too harsh if heavily used. G. T. on this forum (Gerald Tomak) is an expert on magazine repair and restoration. I personally would not dis-assemble a magazine, but would be more comfortable sending it to him for any needed work. So, best advice is to go slow, gentle and just do enough to stabilize the finish and prevent future red oxidation. Certainly some can be slowly removed to help with the stabilization process, but there should always be some red deep in the blue-black finish. Also remember that many of the new relatively exotic chemicals sold for gun cleaning didn't exist when our Lugers were originally made and maintained. Marc __________________ Igitur si vis pacem, para bellum - - Therefore if you want peace, prepare for war.

12-03-2011, 03:47 PM	#13
flomofo User Join Date: Nov 2011 Posts: 18 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	... Thanks that helps clarify what I wanted to do better than the way I said it. I'm trying to just wipe off the grime with a protectant layer applied and the gun, grips and magazine will probably all be sent out. Would you guys send pieces out to different people or just send the whole thing out to one person? I assume sending it to each person is faster than sending the whole thing to say Thor, since he has a bunch of work to usually do. I also wanted to take out and replace some of the more fragile parts like the different springs and store them separately in a corrosion protectant and sealed bag. The grips and magazine I havent done anything with, I just separated them from the parts I'm cleaning.

12-03-2011, 03:58 PM	#14
lugerholsterrepair Moderator Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Arizona/Colorado Posts: 7,761 Thanks: 4,852 Thanked 3,101 Times in 1,427 Posts	Marc has given excellent advice.. G. T. on this forum (Gerald Tomak) is an expert on magazine repair and restoration. I personally would not dis-assemble a magazine, but would be more comfortable sending it to him for any needed work. I just had a wood bottom magazine tuned up and cleaned by GT and he did an excellent job. Quick turnaround and at a reasonable price. __________________ Jerry Burney 11491 S. Guadalupe Drive Yuma AZ 85367-6182 lugerholsterrepair@earthlink.net 928 342-7583 (CO & AZ) Year Round 719 207-3331 (cell) "For those who Fight For It, Life has a flavor the protected will never know."

12-03-2011, 04:34 PM	#15
flomofo User Join Date: Nov 2011 Posts: 18 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	... I'll start there first, and I can send the grips to be cleaned as well there? I'll try and find him here.

12-04-2011, 08:25 PM	#16
flomofo User Join Date: Nov 2011 Posts: 18 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	... The magazine should be on its way out and hopefully the grips will go out soon for a cleaning as well. Also thinking of having a good smith check it out before I try and shoot it once at a later date. After that I have to buy another Luger I can shoot without fear and another Luger thats more collectable than this one .... Also can one of you guys help me with getting some info on my pistol like build year etc?

12-04-2011, 08:31 PM	#17
DavidJayUden Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 4,047 Thanks: 578 Thanked 1,414 Times in 887 Posts	Hugh Clark is our grip guru if you need them restored. dju

12-05-2011, 06:31 PM	#18
flomofo User Join Date: Nov 2011 Posts: 18 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	... Contacted him now as well. Thank You. Anybody able to to tell me anything about my gun with the serial number?

12-06-2011, 10:37 AM	#19
Lugerdoc Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: POB 398 St.Charles,MO. 63302 Posts: 5,089 Thanks: 6 Thanked 736 Times in 483 Posts	I believe that your M1906AE was made prior to 1908, since the 1908 commerical began appearing in the 39xxx serial number range according to "Lugers at Random". I wouldn't be shy about removing any active rust with solvent and a wire brush and keep those areas well oiled to keep the rust from coming back. Be careful when removing the grip safety, not to break it's spring. If you do, I have replacements available @$35. I'M SURPRISED that no one has commented on the extra piece of metal on the inside of the mag well on the right side of the frame! This would appear to be some type of repair, as the bottom of the back strap also appear a bit odd. I've never seen this before. How about you" TH __________________ Tom Heller POB 398 ST.Charles, MO. 63302 Tel 636-447-3006 lugerdoc@charter.net

12-07-2011, 02:44 AM	#20
MFC User Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Louisiana Posts: 1,237 Thanks: 183 Thanked 281 Times in 162 Posts	Tom, Please explain further what it is your seeing. Everything looks normal to me. __________________ Mike C.