Is my Luger jammed? - Page 2

rhuff · 09-04-2011, 05:36 PM

So very glad to hear that you were able to get your highly prized heirloom back to working order. I am sure that it takes a load off of your mind. Thanks for the followup.

saxman · 09-08-2011, 05:30 PM

That is a very nice Luger and it would be great to see some more pics.

Enoch · 09-09-2011, 06:13 AM

Here's the last picture that I had "pre-prepared". Please let me know what other angles or areas you'd like to see and I'll do my best to accomodate you. I can probably do some close ups with my wifes Nikon provided your not looking for any microscopic views. Bear in mind though, the gun isn't for sale. Also, as Mr. Sabato observed, there is a grip chip where the grip meets the smooth end of the safety lever.

sheepherder · 09-09-2011, 06:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Enoch

Also, as Mr. Sabato observed, there is a grip chip where the grip meets the smooth end of the safety lever.

That can be repaired by one of our members [Hugh] so that you'd not notice it was ever chipped...

...But that might alter the heritage of your inheritance...

Enoch · 09-09-2011, 07:36 AM

Thanks very much for that information re: a possible grip repair. Would such a thing diminish (or increase) the guns value? Also, I'm pretty nervous re: taking tools to this gun particularly since a couple others have suggested that trying to remove the grip (to ship for a repair) may result in further damage. Bearing these things in mind would you recommend I pursue a repair?

saxman · 09-09-2011, 08:38 AM

You're going to need to familiarize yourself with at least the basic takedown and operation of the pistol in order to maintain it properly. Taking off the grips is safe and easy as long as you are aware of the tendency of the LH grip to crack off the little point behind the safety. Follow the good instructions already given. Taking off the grips is needed to prevent/treat any rust that may form under them, but is not needed to perform regular maintenance. I'm not seeing the possible minor chip referred to, but you sure don't want to cause one. I don't think any repair is called for either. If you don't want to do the work on it, the best thing is to let Mr. Sabato take care of it for you since you're in the same area.

Enoch · 09-09-2011, 08:56 AM

Copy that. I guess at this point it's kind of moot anyway since that little tip has already cracked off. Is that the only danger re: removing the grips, cracking off that little tip or is there more? Also, what would you (or anyone else willing to comment) describe as basic maintenance that someone with great fear and no experience could successfully execute?

saxman · 09-09-2011, 10:48 AM

You simply need to see that all steel surfaces, inside and out, are clean and treated with a film of lubricant. I like Ballistol for old guns because it is completely safe and harmless to any finishes and it treats the wood. You would want to clean the bore with it on a bore brush and finish with a patch. Corrosive ammo was used in Lugers and they were not always cleaned after use, so the barrel may be pitted. While affecting value, this does not diminish accuracy or shooting fun. If your bore is smooth and bright, that's a big plus. This will be viewed as controversial by some, but it's a fact nonetheless - you can actually immerse the gun in Ballistol without disassembly to make sure every surface is lubed, then drain/wipe off/blow out excess. The gun is then stabilized but should be stripped and manually cleaned before firing or long-term storage. The latest gun I did this on is a 1918 Colt M1911 that had not been cleaned in at least 40 years. I later detail-stripped it which was a lot easier than a dry gun that usually has some light rust in tight places. The Ballistol had liquified most of the dirt and rust by that time and aside from the bore brush, the most aggressive tool I used was an old toothbrush. You don't have to immerse a gun - you can do basically the same with a spray can, but you have to at least field-strip it.
It's wise to fear messing up an heirloom gun by taking it apart, but there are many excellent illustrated manuals and videos on the subject. First learn to field-strip, which amounts to removing the 'cannon' or upper half. This may be as far as you will go, and is adequate for general cleaning.
It's been years since I had a Luger, but now this is making me want another. Why did I come back here and read this?

09-08-2011, 05:30 PM	#22
saxman User Join Date: Jun 2002 Posts: 301 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	That is a very nice Luger and it would be great to see some more pics. __________________ You can lead 'em to the water, but you can't make 'em drink.

09-09-2011, 06:13 AM	#23
Enoch User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Northern VA Posts: 18 Thanks: 4 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Here's the last picture that I had "pre-prepared". Please let me know what other angles or areas you'd like to see and I'll do my best to accomodate you. I can probably do some close ups with my wifes Nikon provided your not looking for any microscopic views. Bear in mind though, the gun isn't for sale. Also, as Mr. Sabato observed, there is a grip chip where the grip meets the smooth end of the safety lever. Attached Images

09-09-2011, 08:38 AM	#26
saxman User Join Date: Jun 2002 Posts: 301 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	You're going to need to familiarize yourself with at least the basic takedown and operation of the pistol in order to maintain it properly. Taking off the grips is safe and easy as long as you are aware of the tendency of the LH grip to crack off the little point behind the safety. Follow the good instructions already given. Taking off the grips is needed to prevent/treat any rust that may form under them, but is not needed to perform regular maintenance. I'm not seeing the possible minor chip referred to, but you sure don't want to cause one. I don't think any repair is called for either. If you don't want to do the work on it, the best thing is to let Mr. Sabato take care of it for you since you're in the same area. __________________ You can lead 'em to the water, but you can't make 'em drink.

09-09-2011, 10:48 AM	#28
saxman User Join Date: Jun 2002 Posts: 301 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	You simply need to see that all steel surfaces, inside and out, are clean and treated with a film of lubricant. I like Ballistol for old guns because it is completely safe and harmless to any finishes and it treats the wood. You would want to clean the bore with it on a bore brush and finish with a patch. Corrosive ammo was used in Lugers and they were not always cleaned after use, so the barrel may be pitted. While affecting value, this does not diminish accuracy or shooting fun. If your bore is smooth and bright, that's a big plus. This will be viewed as controversial by some, but it's a fact nonetheless - you can actually immerse the gun in Ballistol without disassembly to make sure every surface is lubed, then drain/wipe off/blow out excess. The gun is then stabilized but should be stripped and manually cleaned before firing or long-term storage. The latest gun I did this on is a 1918 Colt M1911 that had not been cleaned in at least 40 years. I later detail-stripped it which was a lot easier than a dry gun that usually has some light rust in tight places. The Ballistol had liquified most of the dirt and rust by that time and aside from the bore brush, the most aggressive tool I used was an old toothbrush. You don't have to immerse a gun - you can do basically the same with a spray can, but you have to at least field-strip it. It's wise to fear messing up an heirloom gun by taking it apart, but there are many excellent illustrated manuals and videos on the subject. First learn to field-strip, which amounts to removing the 'cannon' or upper half. This may be as far as you will go, and is adequate for general cleaning. It's been years since I had a Luger, but now this is making me want another. Why did I come back here and read this? __________________ You can lead 'em to the water, but you can't make 'em drink.

09-04-2011, 05:36 PM	#21
rhuff Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Az. Posts: 2,272 Thanks: 2,692 Thanked 959 Times in 705 Posts	So very glad to hear that you were able to get your highly prized heirloom back to working order. I am sure that it takes a load off of your mind. Thanks for the followup.

09-09-2011, 07:36 AM	#25
Enoch User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Northern VA Posts: 18 Thanks: 4 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Thanks very much for that information re: a possible grip repair. Would such a thing diminish (or increase) the guns value? Also, I'm pretty nervous re: taking tools to this gun particularly since a couple others have suggested that trying to remove the grip (to ship for a repair) may result in further damage. Bearing these things in mind would you recommend I pursue a repair?

09-09-2011, 08:56 AM	#27
Enoch User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Northern VA Posts: 18 Thanks: 4 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Copy that. I guess at this point it's kind of moot anyway since that little tip has already cracked off. Is that the only danger re: removing the grips, cracking off that little tip or is there more? Also, what would you (or anyone else willing to comment) describe as basic maintenance that someone with great fear and no experience could successfully execute?