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#21 |
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![]() Gents, Recently came into possession of a Luger. It is a 30 Luger SN 7573. Pics are attached. The only other mark is what looks like an "N" on the left side with something over it. Wood handles and wood clip end. Let me know what else you might need to help id and age. Thx. |
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#22 |
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Kurgen/Jerry, your pistol is a typical civilian-market pistol commonly known as an “alphabet Luger.” They were made in the mid to late 1920s. The “Germany” stamp indicates yours was intended for sale to the US market. They’re one of the most common Lugers found.
As an aside, you probably ought to open your own thread instead of hijacking another. (I’m sure Ed or one of the other mods will be along shortly to do so for you.). Welcome to the forum and be sure to read the FAQ - it has a wealth of information on ID’ing Lugers.
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John 8:32 reive (riːv) vb (Military) (intr) dialect Scot and Northern English to go on a plundering raid [variant of reave] ˈreiver n e.g., " Some view the Border Reivers as loveable rogues." |
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#24 |
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I can't make out the letter suffix.....it is part of the serial number and gives us an idea of when it was made.
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Need DWM breechblock #21 |
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#25 |
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@Kurgen I think you have 7573 o ("O" see DWM suffix chart below)
The suffix is only found under the full serial number on the frame front. The crown/N is a commercial nitro firing proof. It's usually only on the left upper receiver, but sometimes more than one will be applied to the receiver and barrel. (BTW, you can just start another thread - it would be less confusing). |
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#26 |
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I am not getting any bids on the luger at 1200. I took it down to 900 starting with a buy it now of 1200. I think for a commercial Luger its just a bit high.
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#27 |
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#28 |
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Since no one else addressed this, you are thinking about shooting 7.62 Tokarev in the 1895 Mauser. Same case dimensions only the Tok is loaded way hotter and will blow the Mauser up after a while.
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#29 | |
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I appreciate and offer fulsome praise for your obvious concern for the safety of your fellow shooters. Most, if not all of us, have at some point in our lives pushed the envelope of prudent behavior and it's good to be occasionally reminded that unwise behavior can have seriously painful consequences. Let's expand this to a more general caution, taken from NSSF – 10 RULES OF SAFE GUN HANDLING ( https://www.nssf.org/safety/rules-firearms-safety/ ) Rule 5: 5. USE CORRECT AMMUNITION You must assume the serious responsibility of using only the correct ammunition for your firearm. Read and heed all warnings, including those that appear in the gun’s instruction manual and on the ammunition boxes. Using improper or incorrect ammunition can destroy a gun and cause serious personal injury. It only takes one cartridge of improper caliber or gauge to wreck your gun, and only a second to check each one as you load it. Be absolutely certain that the ammunition you are using matches the specifications that are contained within the gun’s instruction manual and the manufacturer’s markings on the firearm. Firearms are designed, manufactured and proof tested to standards based upon those of factory loaded ammunition. Handloaded or reloaded ammunition deviating from pressures generated by factory loads or from component recommendations specified in reputable handloading manuals can be dangerous, and can cause severe damage to guns and serious injury to the shooter. Do not use improper reloads or ammunition made of unknown components. Ammunition that has become very wet or has been submerged in water should be discarded in a safe manner. Do not spray oil or solvents on ammunition or place ammunition in excessively lubricated firearms. Poor ignition, unsatisfactory performance or damage to your firearm and harm to yourself or others could result from using such ammunition. Form the habit of examining every cartridge you put into your gun. Never use damaged or substandard ammunition — the money you save is not worth the risk of possible injury or a ruined gun. |
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