C96 Stock repair ? - Page 2

Rick W. · 08-05-2017, 05:13 PM

If it was mine. I might say I am not too heavy into C96 apparatus.

a drill press is not a mill. I personally think the mill is the best machine for this attempt, just an old guy's opinion. The mill is lots more stable left/right sorta speak.

I would ponder the actual line of travel thru the stock of the screw , and try to get that line upright to the cutter. Not sure how to do that other than by careful eye, and then use an indicator to center the top of the screw proper the best I could.

I think I would use a carbide centerdrill to establish the divit for the drill to follow. The carbide and the attributes of a centerdrill(relative stiffness) will help get things started.

Screws are not too hard I do not think, so a HSS drill(135 degree) would be my choice, unless I had carbide drill on hand. Let there be gentle movements.

A little Kroil on the bottom existing screw/steel support would not hurt before using an easyout. I do not know if the screw is threaded on top and on bottom, but a little Kroil helps threaded objects come loose with judicious persuasion.

A bit touchy to set up, but is done everyday really.

DonVoigt · 08-05-2017, 10:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alvin

This is not the original screw there. Looks the tip is hex shaped, installed by a special tool. But this must be there for a long time and match this stock's overall condition. A new replacement screw won't make it prettier for sure. Downgrading for fun, I guess?

Alvin,
that is not the "tip", but what is left after the head broke off.

If the screw was stuck bad enough to break off the head, you are going to have major problems getting it out, it is probably "rusted" and stuck in the wood.

Drill out the bottom, then drive out the old shaft bottom to top.

Or just leave it alone.

sheepherder · 08-05-2017, 11:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DonVoigt

If the screw was stuck bad enough to break off the head, you are going to have major problems getting it out, it is probably "rusted" and stuck in the wood.

+1

Quote:

Or just leave it alone.

And glue a screw head in the broken-off hole.

alvin · 08-06-2017, 01:10 AM

Broken head screw should NOT break on the tail end. Please note the both pictures shown in post #16 are screw's tail end, not head end.

unitedcs · 08-06-2017, 09:16 AM

Thanks Alvin, my photo abilities are in desperate need of improvement. I see an iphone in my future. Both pictures are of the tail end, just a black hole on the screw head side. I've thought about another option that may not be righteous to any future owner if I'm not around to explain. But since the stock is functional but only loose on the screw head side, I'm inclined to epoxy it, lop of a correct screw head and epoxy that into the hole. Out of sight, strong and functional and without the possibility of destroying the piece. The value of the stock is already compromised and in my eyes downgraded to "shooter" status now regardless of its pristine appearance. Any thoughts on which type epoxy would work best?

sheepherder · 08-06-2017, 01:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by unitedcs

Both pictures are of the tail end, just a black hole on the screw head side.

Well, that changes everything.

How about sticking a rod down the 'black hole' and see how much of the screw is actually left? If that is the bottom of the screw, then you would only have to drill out about 3/16" of the screw x base diameter of the thread to break it loose and drive it out. Then you can separate the wood and pick out the pieces of thread and clean up the tapped hole.

It's actually gotten easier.

unitedcs · 08-06-2017, 08:07 PM

Thank you all for the advice. Finally got the SOB out and recut the thread (I think the same size). It did take two new carbide bits due to busting the first. Went with the dremel suggestion to dish out the center first, thanks Olle for suggesting. Now just to find the correct replacement screw without having to buy the whole mounting bracket.

DonVoigt · 08-06-2017, 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by unitedcs

Thanks Alvin, my photo abilities are in desperate need of improvement. I see an iphone in my future. Both pictures are of the tail end, just a black hole on the screw head side. I've thought about another option that may not be righteous to any future owner if I'm not around to explain. But since the stock is functional but only loose on the screw head side, I'm inclined to epoxy it, lop of a correct screw head and epoxy that into the hole. Out of sight, strong and functional and without the possibility of destroying the piece. The value of the stock is already compromised and in my eyes downgraded to "shooter" status now regardless of its pristine appearance. Any thoughts on which type epoxy would work best?

For sure your description and pictures are at best "confusing".
If that is indeed the tail end in the picture, someone has already drilled and monkeyed with it!

DonVoigt · 08-06-2017, 09:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by unitedcs

Thank you all for the advice. Finally got the SOB out and recut the thread (I think the same size). It did take two new carbide bits due to busting the first. Went with the dremel suggestion to dish out the center first, thanks Olle for suggesting. Now just to find the correct replacement screw without having to buy the whole mounting bracket.

Well, now-

how about pictures of both sides and "what ever" you got out of the stock?

Why would you re-cut the thread until you have the screw and know the diameter and thread pitch ?

Sharing info is good.

unitedcs · 08-06-2017, 10:45 PM

Well I don't know Don, just seem the right thing to do. The tap looked to fit and turned through with not much effort like it was following. If it's too small I'll make it bigger. Haven't been able to find just the screw w/o buying the complete hardware so worse case is I'll have to make one.

unitedcs · 08-06-2017, 11:03 PM

Good old ebay $10

alvin · 08-07-2017, 07:26 AM

ebay is full of goodies.

sheepherder · 08-07-2017, 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alvin

ebay is full of goofies.

Didn't you mis-spell 'goodies'???

DonVoigt · 08-07-2017, 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by unitedcs

Good old ebay $10

Great deal, hope you got it.

Threads look a little coarse, but then there is no reference.

I've pre-drilled and pre-threaded before, and at least half the time I then wished I had waited!
Maybe you are luckier than I am.

alvin · 08-07-2017, 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sheepherder

Didn't you mis-spell 'goodies'???

Goodies. Fixed.

Looks being a replica. But it fits the role.

unitedcs · 08-09-2017, 04:30 PM

Don, just an update on those threads. My ebay screw arrived today, ended up being a 6-32.

DonVoigt · 08-09-2017, 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by unitedcs

Don, just an update on those threads. My ebay screw arrived today, ended up being a 6-32.

Thanks for the info.

You can get an exact duplicate if you want one.
One of the forum members had some made- but they are not cheap.

08-06-2017, 11:03 PM	#31
unitedcs User Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Land O Lakes, Florida Posts: 90 Thanks: 8 Thanked 30 Times in 15 Posts	Good old ebay $10 Attached Thumbnails

08-07-2017, 07:26 AM	#32
alvin User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: US Posts: 3,843 Thanks: 132 Thanked 729 Times in 438 Posts	ebay is full of goodies. Last edited by alvin; 08-07-2017 at 11:21 AM. Reason: misspelled word

08-05-2017, 05:13 PM	#21
Rick W. User Join Date: Jun 2002 Posts: 339 Thanks: 81 Thanked 359 Times in 198 Posts	If it was mine. I might say I am not too heavy into C96 apparatus. a drill press is not a mill. I personally think the mill is the best machine for this attempt, just an old guy's opinion. The mill is lots more stable left/right sorta speak. I would ponder the actual line of travel thru the stock of the screw , and try to get that line upright to the cutter. Not sure how to do that other than by careful eye, and then use an indicator to center the top of the screw proper the best I could. I think I would use a carbide centerdrill to establish the divit for the drill to follow. The carbide and the attributes of a centerdrill(relative stiffness) will help get things started. Screws are not too hard I do not think, so a HSS drill(135 degree) would be my choice, unless I had carbide drill on hand. Let there be gentle movements. A little Kroil on the bottom existing screw/steel support would not hurt before using an easyout. I do not know if the screw is threaded on top and on bottom, but a little Kroil helps threaded objects come loose with judicious persuasion. A bit touchy to set up, but is done everyday really.

08-06-2017, 01:10 AM	#24
alvin User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: US Posts: 3,843 Thanks: 132 Thanked 729 Times in 438 Posts	Broken head screw should NOT break on the tail end. Please note the both pictures shown in post #16 are screw's tail end, not head end.

08-06-2017, 09:16 AM	#25
unitedcs User Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Land O Lakes, Florida Posts: 90 Thanks: 8 Thanked 30 Times in 15 Posts	Thanks Alvin, my photo abilities are in desperate need of improvement. I see an iphone in my future. Both pictures are of the tail end, just a black hole on the screw head side. I've thought about another option that may not be righteous to any future owner if I'm not around to explain. But since the stock is functional but only loose on the screw head side, I'm inclined to epoxy it, lop of a correct screw head and epoxy that into the hole. Out of sight, strong and functional and without the possibility of destroying the piece. The value of the stock is already compromised and in my eyes downgraded to "shooter" status now regardless of its pristine appearance. Any thoughts on which type epoxy would work best?

08-06-2017, 08:07 PM	#27
unitedcs User Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Land O Lakes, Florida Posts: 90 Thanks: 8 Thanked 30 Times in 15 Posts	Thank you all for the advice. Finally got the SOB out and recut the thread (I think the same size). It did take two new carbide bits due to busting the first. Went with the dremel suggestion to dish out the center first, thanks Olle for suggesting. Now just to find the correct replacement screw without having to buy the whole mounting bracket.

08-06-2017, 10:45 PM	#30
unitedcs User Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Land O Lakes, Florida Posts: 90 Thanks: 8 Thanked 30 Times in 15 Posts	Well I don't know Don, just seem the right thing to do. The tap looked to fit and turned through with not much effort like it was following. If it's too small I'll make it bigger. Haven't been able to find just the screw w/o buying the complete hardware so worse case is I'll have to make one.

08-09-2017, 04:30 PM	#36
unitedcs User Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Land O Lakes, Florida Posts: 90 Thanks: 8 Thanked 30 Times in 15 Posts	Don, just an update on those threads. My ebay screw arrived today, ended up being a 6-32.