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02-25-2014, 10:32 AM | #21 |
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David,
You might already know this, but it's still worth mentioning... The common hardware store stains have too much filler for work like this. They tend to seal the grain quickly, so it's difficult to darken or fine tune the color after it's dry, and it can also leave some unsighly dark lines in the checkering if you don't remove it quickly. They're great when you just want an even color over a large surface, but you can't do much with it once the first coat is dry. I have had very good luck with alcohol based dye from Woodcraft, it soaks into the wood more evenly than stain and the excess is easy to dab off. It doesn't seal the grain either, you just let it dry, check the color and apply more. You can also blend in a different color, hide light streaks etc. It would be ideal for this project, as you can dilute it and dab it on to change the color just a hair. |
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02-25-2014, 11:26 AM | #22 |
Twice a Lifer
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Thanks, Ollie, that's basically how the home brew works--except it is water based. I was considering changing over to alcohol for it, for faster drying. You're right about the oil based colorants' being a one shot deal due to their sealing power. And also about the dark lines if the buildup migrates to the bottoms of the grooves and is not dabbed out before dry. (A soft toothbrush will do the job in this case.)
Staining is basically imparting impurities into the outermost surface of the wood. For best penetration into the wood fiber, the pigments should be near molecular in size. And the less "vehicle" remaining, the less buildup/sealing. Alcohol is a good vehicle because it evaporates completely and will have not much tendency to raise the grain of the wood. I've used this preparation before to match colors on a set of bulls-eye grips, the components of which displayed four different tones after being stripped. Nature's blend changed the three lightest colors to match the darkest, most wal-nutty. The brightest tones required repeated applications, and I was able to approach the tone I wanted by steps in the application process.
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02-25-2014, 11:44 AM | #23 | |
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Quote:
Another DIY trick is to use colored permanent markers to adjust the color. For example: If your dye needs a hint of red, cut a red marker in half and put everything you find inside in a Tupperware container, then add alcohol. Dilute it as necessary, and use it as a dye. It usually makes a mess, but it works in a pinch. |
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02-26-2014, 10:53 AM | #24 |
Twice a Lifer
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Yesterday, I went back to the cast urethane grips for my 70s Swiss frame Mauser and straightened out the left grip I'd started to checker over a year ago but had set aside because of problems I was creating for myself in doing the work. At current experience level, I was able to straighten it out and finish the application of the pattern with good results.
The pic shows the right grip, sanded smooth of its former chunky checkering, and curved more like a P.08 grip. You can see the "master lines" I've cut in, establishing the angle--and therefore proportions--of the pattern to be genertated Next to it is the completed 20 lpi left grip. They are cast in the custom color I had them concoct for me, to mimic the "Red Swiss" look. What do you think of the color!? Cast urethane is nice material to work with--obviously, no grain to fight with, and it cuts similarly to real wood. It tends to be slippery when running the tools on it, so extra attention is needed to stay on track.
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02-26-2014, 11:37 AM | #25 |
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NICE Job!
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02-27-2014, 02:10 PM | #26 |
Twice a Lifer
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I finished up the right red Swiss grip last night. Here's how it looks on the 29/70 .22 conversion. Success...yay!!
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02-27-2014, 04:04 PM | #27 |
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You did yourself proud!! Nice job.
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02-27-2014, 09:27 PM | #28 |
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Be careful, you asking to get drafted into duty of this type of labor.
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