Value of reblued Luger - Page 2

DonVoigt · 07-23-2018, 12:34 PM

Jerry,
You said "Mauser improvements" ; I just wondered what you thought they were; since I don't "collect" Mauser lugers, I thought I might learn something. You did remind me about the extractor difference. The hump I never thought of as an improvement - but it is.

In other cases they were not improvements by Mauser.

Rich is correct, I just don't like general statements or repetition of "common" knowledge.
Where the info is available, I like to know what/where it is.

I believe a 1916 DWM luger can be an excellent choice for a shooter.
I see extractors and ejectors as expendable and replaceable parts in a shooter; along with springs and grips. JMO. This does not mean that a Mauser luger is not a good choice, but it is often a more expensive choice- due to the "Nazi" and/or WWII mystique that seems to command a premium.

Norm, thanks for your comment- nice to know I'm not the only "one".

sheepherder · 07-23-2018, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DonVoigt

Rich is correct, I just don't like general statements or repetition of "common" knowledge.
Where the info is available, I like to know what/where it is.

I agree with Don and Norm. The Japanese 'Mum' Luger discussion (and Totenkopf, and Russian Contract, and Spandau) discussions fascinate me, since so many dismiss them as fantasies when there are actual early photographs of them. From way before it was profitable or collectible or anyone even gave a rats' ass about them.

I also like to know about design changes and the tooling changes required. Changes are done to make something safer, or cheaper, or manufacture quicker, or eliminate waste (time or materials). I can always benefit from knowing how to do the job (any job) more efficiently.

wlyon · 07-23-2018, 01:11 PM

We get toilet trained at an early age and then in old age forget all about it. Bill

lugerholsterrepair · 07-23-2018, 02:42 PM

I believe a 1916 DWM luger can be an excellent choice for a shooter.
I see extractors and ejectors as expendable and replaceable parts in a shooter; along with springs and grips.

I have a half dozen WW1 shooters. I also have also experienced 100% of my breakage on them. Expense? Extractors, ejectors, bolts..all kind of spendy saying nothing about traveling to a range for several hours of shooting only to have expensive parts fly off. THEN if you are NOT a Luger mechanic..you have another expensive trip to a gunsmith.

I guess really one could say a late Swiss might be the best shooter..less likely to break. But Luger's DO break and WW1 Luger's in my experience break a LOT more frequently that most people think.

You would think an "anal" person could see the logic of my position! Course I ain't blaming the Author of my days. I own it all.

kurusu · 07-24-2018, 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DonVoigt

Yes, crazed(or crazy) or just curious.

I'd like to know what the other important changes are when you get time to list them.

Some folks suggest changing the entire toggle train for shooting, if one wishes to preserve the original from any chance of damage.

But then that is the reason to have a "shooter".

That, may work... Or be a total headache.

Seen it happen.

DonVoigt · 07-24-2018, 08:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lugerholsterrepair

I believe a 1916 DWM luger can be an excellent choice for a shooter.
I see extractors and ejectors as expendable and replaceable parts in a shooter; along with springs and grips.

I have a half dozen WW1 shooters. I also have also experienced 100% of my breakage on them. Expense? Extractors, ejectors, bolts..all kind of spendy saying nothing about traveling to a range for several hours of shooting only to have expensive parts fly off. THEN if you are NOT a Luger mechanic..you have another expensive trip to a gunsmith.

I guess really one could say a late Swiss might be the best shooter..less likely to break. But Luger's DO break and WW1 Luger's in my experience break a LOT more frequently that most people think.

You would think an "anal" person could see the logic of my position! Course I ain't blaming the Author of my days. I own it all.

I count myself fortunate to have not "broken" any luger parts(all I shoot are WWI or Weimar vintage-since I don't collect Mauser lugers); well except the one breech block that was entirely my fault when "experimenting"- and it is fixed now.

That was trying to make a .32 acp luger(just to see if I could) and I let the headspace get way to "long".

Even my .45 conversion on a normal WWI P08 didn't break any parts.

I have found broken or missing parts in luger pistols I have bought though.

My range trips are successful, since I always take at least two shooter lugers and maybe a third- and usually a fourth of something else- since 4 pistols fit into my shooting box. Along with several magazines and more than one brand of ammo. That must me the result of anality.

If you have a spare, one usually never breaks a part!
Murphy's law in reverse.

Vlim · 07-25-2018, 05:45 AM

Early German steel was crap. Consistancy was lacking and hardness was all over the place.

In the early years, Mauser bought its steel from Sheffield because they considered German steel to be unsuitable for their use.

In the 1930s metallurgy greatly improved. Mausers from the 1930s utilize better steel, better heat treating and thus improved reliability over WW1 era P08s.

Krieghoffs are probably similar in regards to metallurgy. But if one is looking for a reliable and affordable shooter, a Krieghoff is not really an option.

DonVoigt · 07-25-2018, 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vlim

Early German steel was crap. Consistancy was lacking and hardness was all over the place.

In the early years, Mauser bought its steel from Sheffield because they considered German steel to be unsuitable for their use.

In the 1930s metallurgy greatly improved. Mausers from the 1930s utilize better steel, better heat treating and thus improved reliability over WW1 era P08s.

Krieghoffs are probably similar in regards to metallurgy. But if one is looking for a reliable and affordable shooter, a Krieghoff is not really an option.

Yikes!

Yet, somehow, DWM and Erfurt managed to produce over 1 million lugers by 1918; many of which survive today with their matching parts after 100 years.
Perhaps "German steel was crap" is a little overstated?

07-23-2018, 12:34 PM	#21
DonVoigt User Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: near Charlotte NC Posts: 4,681 Thanks: 1,441 Thanked 4,350 Times in 2,040 Posts	Jerry, You said "Mauser improvements" ; I just wondered what you thought they were; since I don't "collect" Mauser lugers, I thought I might learn something. You did remind me about the extractor difference. The hump I never thought of as an improvement - but it is. In other cases they were not improvements by Mauser. Rich is correct, I just don't like general statements or repetition of "common" knowledge. Where the info is available, I like to know what/where it is. I believe a 1916 DWM luger can be an excellent choice for a shooter. I see extractors and ejectors as expendable and replaceable parts in a shooter; along with springs and grips. JMO. This does not mean that a Mauser luger is not a good choice, but it is often a more expensive choice- due to the "Nazi" and/or WWII mystique that seems to command a premium. Norm, thanks for your comment- nice to know I'm not the only "one". __________________ 03man(Don Voigt); Luger student and collector. Looking for DWM side plate: 69 ; Dreyse 1907 pistol K.S. Gendarmerie

07-23-2018, 01:11 PM	#23
wlyon Lifer 2X Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: May 2005 Location: Somewhere in Montana Posts: 2,629 Thanks: 3,169 Thanked 2,552 Times in 952 Posts	We get toilet trained at an early age and then in old age forget all about it. Bill __________________ Bill Lyon

07-23-2018, 02:42 PM	#24
lugerholsterrepair Moderator Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Arizona/Colorado Posts: 7,768 Thanks: 4,896 Thanked 3,122 Times in 1,433 Posts	I believe a 1916 DWM luger can be an excellent choice for a shooter. I see extractors and ejectors as expendable and replaceable parts in a shooter; along with springs and grips. I have a half dozen WW1 shooters. I also have also experienced 100% of my breakage on them. Expense? Extractors, ejectors, bolts..all kind of spendy saying nothing about traveling to a range for several hours of shooting only to have expensive parts fly off. THEN if you are NOT a Luger mechanic..you have another expensive trip to a gunsmith. I guess really one could say a late Swiss might be the best shooter..less likely to break. But Luger's DO break and WW1 Luger's in my experience break a LOT more frequently that most people think. You would think an "anal" person could see the logic of my position! Course I ain't blaming the Author of my days. I own it all. __________________ Jerry Burney 11491 S. Guadalupe Drive Yuma AZ 85367-6182 lugerholsterrepair@earthlink.net 928 342-7583 (CO & AZ) Year Round 719 207-3331 (cell) "For those who Fight For It, Life has a flavor the protected will never know."

07-25-2018, 05:45 AM	#27
Vlim Moderator Lifetime LugerForum Patron Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Europe Posts: 5,053 Thanks: 1,036 Thanked 3,987 Times in 1,205 Posts	Early German steel was crap. Consistancy was lacking and hardness was all over the place. In the early years, Mauser bought its steel from Sheffield because they considered German steel to be unsuitable for their use. In the 1930s metallurgy greatly improved. Mausers from the 1930s utilize better steel, better heat treating and thus improved reliability over WW1 era P08s. Krieghoffs are probably similar in regards to metallurgy. But if one is looking for a reliable and affordable shooter, a Krieghoff is not really an option.