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Unread 04-22-2011, 07:20 AM   #21
Edward Tinker
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I asked this question a few years ago and was told to buy some yellowish / white paint from Hobby World or whatever it is called. I think the white was called, either antique white or antique cream or something to that effect. It gives that aged look instead of the brand-new cream white that was probably original. Ed
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Unread 04-23-2011, 01:04 AM   #22
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There is a product called "Rub N Buff" which is available at craft stores. It is enamel in a tube, and comes in paste form. It comes in assorted colors, but the perfect color for use on a Luger (or P38 for that matter) is called "Antique White." Just rub it over the letters to be restored, let it thoroughly dry, then remove the excess with a tissue dampened with alcohol or acetone. The only problem is finding the stuff.
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Unread 11-22-2011, 05:02 PM   #23
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Sorry fot the late reply to this thread but Rub N buff products, if anyone is interested, can be located at: www.rubnbuff.com, but there are quite a few links so it may take awhile to locate the one you want, good luck.
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Unread 11-23-2011, 04:36 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G.T. View Post
you really have to wait a'bit, (might accelerate with heat) for the enamal to cure... I'm talking months!!!!..
Here's another late reply: I build plastic model cars now and then, and one trick that's mentioned quite frequently on the discussion forums is to put your painted parts in a food dehydrator. From what I have heard, the enamel will dry hard enough to polish in a day or so, and this should be hard enough for most purposes. Granted, I have never tried this myself, but many model builders swear by it so I'm sure that you can do the same thing with a Luger frame. Then again, the paint is is a recessed area where you can't really touch it, so it's difficult to damage it even if it's not completely dry.

I might also add that the Testors enamel is a bit too glossy for my taste, but a quick and careful application of acetone (just a few drops that you dab off immediately) will knock the sheen off of it and make it look more "aged".
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Unread 11-27-2011, 06:30 PM   #25
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I have been told (without being able to confirm it myself) that the original specification for the Gesichert inlay is white sealing wax.

--Dwight
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Unread 11-27-2011, 07:20 PM   #26
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Home Depot has a very large assortment of color chips that are free. I have been able to closely match the safety color with these samples. They sell a very small container of paint that is made from the samples. I think it cost $3.00 or so.

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Unread 11-27-2011, 07:53 PM   #27
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I use ground up Mongolian musk ox horn, mixed with the honey from Madagascar bees, male only (extremely rare). Let it cure for 100 days and administer it with the brush of the rare Arctic red fox. Let it sit for 30 days then place it in an oven at exactly 420 degrees for two hours and then you can't tell it from the real thing.

Harry

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Unread 11-27-2011, 08:25 PM   #28
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Ahaaaa, I see you build violins!........... best to all, til...lat'r...GT...
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Unread 11-27-2011, 09:09 PM   #29
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Unicorn horn is much preferable to Mongolian musk ox...more durable and better color. I have used up almost all of mine.
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Unread 11-27-2011, 11:04 PM   #30
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We must always strive for perfection..being human we often fail at this effort but because we do..we come out much better than if we strive for half assed.
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Unread 11-28-2011, 12:48 AM   #31
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Fail once, fail better the next time...! (By the way, I was just kidding about being almost out of unicorn horn...I have quite a bit of it stashed away in Sherwood Forest)
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Unread 11-28-2011, 01:37 AM   #32
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If at first you don't succeed, give up you are just wasting your time !! Skydiving is a perfect example !!

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Unread 11-28-2011, 02:15 AM   #33
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I myself like to use white fluorescence paint so I can see
Gesichert in the dark then I know when the saftey is on or off
at night.This way I won,t shoot myself accidently.It is better to
be safe than sorry.Hope this helps.
Thanks George
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Unread 12-16-2011, 07:33 AM   #34
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I do not work on Lugers but on many other guns I have used nail polish for various lettering or sights. I have used white for the markings on M1a rifles rear sights. I have found it best to fill the lettering with a toothpick dipped in the nail polish or sometimes you can use the little brush. Don't worry about excess. Let it dry and then get a Q tip dipped slightly in acetone or nail polish remover and gently take off the excess. You must change Q tips a lot. Once you get the hang of it it is easy.
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Unread 12-16-2011, 12:19 PM   #35
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I hope everyone realizes that the foregoing discussion only applies to collector grade Lugers in which we are trying to duplicate the appearance of the original white lettering. As for shooter Lugers, a much more attractive appearance is achieved by painting the lettering a bright yellow, fuschia, or lavendar. I believe a special line of these designer Luger colors is available from Martha Stewart.
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