my profile |
register |
faq |
search upload photo | donate | calendar |
07-09-2012, 04:49 PM | #21 |
User
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Norway
Posts: 85
Thanks: 41
Thanked 14 Times in 9 Posts
|
I did the extractor and safty bar a rich, deep blue with a little butane torch and some machine oil. took about 3 minutes and made a world difference.
|
07-09-2012, 05:59 PM | #22 |
User
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: The Fascist State of Maryland
Posts: 224
Thanks: 55
Thanked 26 Times in 14 Posts
|
OH WOW I just did the trigger, magazine push button and take down lever and they came out great! I tried the oven and it didn't seem to work maybe I didn't wait long enough but what I did was used a cast iron frying pan and filled it with sand I placed the parts in the sand and covered them over and used a small map gas torch to heat the sand. The first time the part came out a blue, black purple color so I repolished and started over this time I got em out just in time and hosed em off with a lite gun oil and let em cool off wrapped in a oil soaked paper towel.
The reason I decided to use the sand was to heat the parts evenly as the sand helps to hold the heat in.
__________________
Trying to redo grand dads Luger the best I can. |
07-09-2012, 06:26 PM | #23 |
User
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: The Fascist State of Maryland
Posts: 224
Thanks: 55
Thanked 26 Times in 14 Posts
|
Its a shame you can't just do the whole gun like this!
__________________
Trying to redo grand dads Luger the best I can. |
07-09-2012, 06:49 PM | #24 |
Moderator
2010 LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Santa Teresa New Mexico just outside of the West Texas town of El Paso
Posts: 7,022
Thanks: 1,090
Thanked 5,178 Times in 1,703 Posts
|
Very smart! That's the way some of the "pros" do it.
__________________
If it's made after 1918...it's a reproduction |
The following member says Thank You to Ron Wood for your post: |
07-09-2012, 09:00 PM | #25 |
User
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: The Fascist State of Maryland
Posts: 224
Thanks: 55
Thanked 26 Times in 14 Posts
|
I learned it from doing very detailed welding on thin little dash board parts on old Jags.
__________________
Trying to redo grand dads Luger the best I can. |
10-29-2013, 05:30 AM | #26 |
User
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: UK
Posts: 94
Thanks: 31
Thanked 25 Times in 12 Posts
|
Many thanks for this thread, just done a take down lever for my 1917 Arty luger, results are fantastic
|
09-28-2014, 02:18 PM | #27 |
User
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Bucharest, Romania
Posts: 7
Thanks: 2
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
|
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hw4Rl0uG7ok
an interesting video about heat treatment. at about minute 20 it explains and shows the strawing procces |
03-04-2017, 04:55 AM | #28 |
New User
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 2
Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 1 Post
|
The procedures for heat treating each part and from year to year differed. The steels did change. So did the desired color and tint.
The complete instructions can be found here. I don't know why someone stuck them on Scribed, but you can read them all there fot free without having to get a $9 a month membership. All temperatures are in Centigrade. http://www.scribd.com/document/15362...structions-pdf |
03-04-2017, 10:30 AM | #29 |
User
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: near Charlotte NC
Posts: 4,681
Thanks: 1,441
Thanked 4,350 Times in 2,040 Posts
|
There is a sticky here on strawing too- or maybe the other luger forum.
Just search on straw, strawing, re-strawing or similar and you can find it. For those challenged in degrees C- a nice straw color is obtainable from 420 to 460 degrees F, the range depends on the accuracy of your thermometer, time, metal, and phase of the moon. It can be done in your "regular" oven; and re-done if it does not turn out to suit the first time. Just re-polish to white and do it over.
__________________
03man(Don Voigt); Luger student and collector. Looking for DWM side plate: 69 ; Dreyse 1907 pistol K.S. Gendarmerie |
|
|