New member with a problem

[wyowillys46]

Hi all,
I just bought my first Luger a few weeks ago. It's a rebarreled DWM 4 digit SN that was setup for target shooting (the rear sight was filed to a "U"). I had a problem crop up at the range this last Sunday that I can't seem to fix. After a mag or two I pulled the trigger and nothing happened. Come to find out the firing pin spring guide popped out. I put it back in and turned to lock it. However, now the bolt won't go back into battery UNLESS the trigger is pulled. The toggle stays up about a millimeter to two, pull the trigger, then click, it comes down. I think the sear is catching the bolt and not the firing pin but I can't seem to find out where? Can anyone help?
Morgan Neelands

[ViggoG]

Morgan,
Remove your Cannon Assembly
Remove the Spring Guide, Spring, And Firing Pin.
Examine the Rear of the Bolt Assembly. for any damage, or Foreign Material or Damage that may keep the guide Pin from rotating to the position where the "Slot is Vertical". This is most Important as, "IF THE SLOT IN THE SPRING GUIDE IS NOT VERTICAL" The lug of the pin will not seat in the lug recess, holding the pin forward about 1 mm and "THE MALFUNCTION THAT YOU DESCRIBE WILL HAPPEN EVERY TIME !!!!" I tested it on my "06 AE".
ViggoG

[wyowillys46]

So then the slot should be vertical? I thought it had to be inserted then turned slightly to lock in place? When I get off work tomorrow I'll take a look at the pistol.

[Dwight Gruber]

"slightly" = 90�º

--Dwight

[wyowillys46]

Ok, so I took a look at the pistol tonight. I think I have what could be classified as a major problem. At the rear of the breech block where the guide lug turns in there is a sopt of metal where the lug on the guide is suppose to rest against. At the 12 o clock position when in the pistol. This metal is missing on my breech block.Is this a normal thing that happens over time as that section gets repeatedly peened? Is there a fix I can do (welding) or do I have to break down and buy a whole new breech block?
Morgan

[ViggoG]

Morgan,

LUGER SPECIALIST NEEDED

I'm Happy to announce that You are a Very Lucky Fellow.
This is generally a sign of a blown primer, Which allows the Breech Pressure Gas to drive the firing pin to the rear like a bullet Frequently accompanied with the venting of gas through the bottom of the cannon and can in some cases severly damage the shooters hand, not to mention the gas venting to the rear dirctly into the face and the shooters eyes.
This is a very serious failure and the weapon should be reworked by a highly qualified "Luger Gunsmith". NOT JUST ANY GUNSMITH BUT ONE THAT SPECIALIZES IN LUGER REPAIRS AND PROOF TESTING.
There are several who are members of this forum.
One who comes to mind, "Thor", Ted Green Is listed in the "Menu Links", "Links & Resources". In my opinion His Work Is TOPS !
How about one of you Fellows Jumping in Here.
ViggoG

[Thor]

Viggo, I can certainly replace the breechblock with a new one and do any finish work he might need. A new breechblock purchase should also be accompanied by a WWII vintage VENTED firing pin.

[Lugerdoc]

Morgan, I agree with Thor's assement. Blown breech blocks can be rewelded, but this is an expendsive and time consuming procedure, to cut the new groove after welding. This is only recommended for collector grade matching lugers, as it's much cheaper (about $150) to install a new mismatched breech block and relieved firing pin, to prevent this happening again. TH

[wyowillys46]

Thank you very much for your replies everyone. I think the problem was there before I bought the pistol and just didn't know it till now. The only ammunition I have used has been Winchester white box. I know that Sarco stocks some original unnumbered breech blocks for about 110 or so.Is this a good deal? I imagine that it would have to probably be hand fitted to the pistol huh? I will probably be taking you up on repairing my Luger, Thor. Might have to wait a little while till I can get the funds.
Thanks a lot guys,
Morgan

[wyowillys46]

Hmmm. Had an idea after coming back from dinner. The breech block has been on my mind all night. I have access to a mill here at work. Could the same cuts that are made in the 12 o'clock part of the block be cut into the 6 o'clock postition? Thereby just reversing the procedure to turn in the firing pin guide (counter-clockwise to install instead of removing)? I hope I'm explaining this correctly.

[John Sabato]

wyowilly46,

I don't know a mechanical reason that it wouldn't work provided there is enough steel there to accomodate the retaining boss on the firing pin retainer... BUT definitely get a new vented firing pin before shooting it... Now that I have said that, the recommended way would be a new breechblock...

BUT if you have the time and the tools you could do it... the question: Is there really enough steel on the bottom of the breechblock to do a good job? and will the damage to the upper portion enable a good fit of the retainer when the retaining boss is turned down instead of up.

Since the block is already damaged, you really don't have anything to lose by attempting this modification except maybe your hand! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="eek.gif" />

[wyowillys46]

I'll have to take a look at it again today. LIke you said since its already damaged I don't think I'd mess it up anymore. And if it becomes damaged during machining, off to Thor it will go I guess. Who carries vented firing pins by the way?
Morgan

[Lugerdoc]

Morgan, I have a few relieved Mauser firing pins left in stock @$40 each. Unless Sarco has done some milling on their unfinished DDR breech blocks, I don't recommend them. The sample that they sent me was so tight, that a standard firing pin would not go in. TH