ANOTHER holster care question

[drbuster]

There was a recent thread regarding holster care (8-24-03). Many good suggestions were given. It appeared to me that the conditioning advice was for the part of the holster that is tanned, or shiney (the outside). I was wondering about care for the inside leather, the part that is "bear". This leather is sometimes smooth, sometimes soft and sometimes even gritty. Is this side of the leather conditioned the same way? What is the best to use: Connely's Hide Food, Pecards, regular saddle soap, Nordstom's leather conditioner (al la Pete Ebbink). Is the inside handled the same as the outside? Alot of choices..maybe all good. Would appreciate some thoughts.

[Herb]

Wow Herb, your holsters are "bear" inside? Mine are just plain ole cowhide. ROTFLMAO.

[drbuster]

Whoops, I guess I should have typed "bare". That wedding I went to last night left a hang over!

[Herb]

Darn, and I had the problem solved for you
http://www.historicaltrekking.com/ti...sages/36.shtml

[drbuster]

Appreciate your reply, Herb. Just can't seem to be able to find the bear grease!

[lugerholsterrepair]

Herb, I have used Connoly's on the inside to good effect. It does not seem to hurt anyway, smooths the suede a little and darkens to some degree. I have always believed it does the same for the inside as the outside. The suede inside is more pourous and will react differently cosmetically. Jerry Burney

[drbuster]

Thanks for the reply, Jerry. I currently have Pecards leather conditioner and saddle soap. the Connelys may be rather hard to find. I know what you said about Pecards in the earlier post, do you think it would be OK for use inside on the suede part? Always appreciate your learned and experienced comments.

[lugerholsterrepair]

Herb, Frankly NO. I do not like Pecard's on fine antique leather. It gums up the surface and is sticky like dried honey. It will attract dirt and since it does not soak in it could possibly gum up the next pistol you insert into the holster.

I have had several holsters into my shop for repair that had been treated with this goo and I had to scrape it off to even begin my repairs. It is primarily a protective coating to repell severe conditions such as snow and water. It is meant to be gooey and sticky to survive longer periods in rough conditions on hunting boots and shoes. Since it's primary purpose is to be a coating or repellant it does nothing whatever for long term leather preservation or conditioning on fine leather. On horse tack and leather meant to be exposed to the elements outdoors I suppose it is a fine product.

Saddle soap is not all that good an idea on the inner suede part of holsters either. It is excellent on the outside epidermis or smooth side because this is easily cleaned with little moisture and can be dried immediately with a cotton cloth or paper towell. If saddle soap is used on the inside it tends to penetrate and leave too much moisture in the leather. Most insides of holsters do not get the kind of dirt that can't be brushed out with a stiff tooth brush or if you want to get agressive use a brass suede brush. Remember, before you clean the outside with any saddle soap, to brush the stitch lines with a tooth brush and try to remove as much surface dirt as you can. Then polish with a clean cotton cloth.

Connoly's is not at all hard to find. I have found it for sale on eBay or do a google search for it and numerous Company's sell it for around $15.00 a jar plus shipping. That is a reasonable amount to keep from ruining a valuble holster.

I do not know what experience you have had with Pecard's but mine has been negative. I would not use it on either side of a holster I value.
Jerry Burney

[drbuster]

Jerry, thanks again for your valuable input. I'm going to search out and buy Connoly's. You saved me from gumming some quality holsters. Thanks!

[Daniel]

Herb, Connelly's is available at <www.properautocare.com> , I have tried it and only time will tell if it is the best for leather as it has a petroleum base . I like a product called "Blackrock" it contains Carnauba wax, Lexol is another leather treatment product. I usued neatsfoot oil for many years on leather body belts & safety straps without any problems. You may want to experiment on scrap leather or old belts to help with your decision.
My $.02
Daniel

[wterrell]

Why does Connolly's Hide Food bead up water droplets whenever you rub it onto leather?

[Edward Tinker]

The only fear I have is the future, in the sense that you don't really know what to think will happen in 10 or 20 years time, from having used some kind of "preventive"?

I have heard good things about Pecards, but didn't know others on the forum didn't like it, no matter what, I very seldom use anything on my holsters, but feel "something" should be used when they bought and are so dry?

Ed

[lugerholsterrepair]

Danial, How do you know Connoly's has a petroleum base? I am not asking to be confrontational but seek any information you might have about it's chemical composition. It is my understanding it is composed of Lanolin, and a white spirit, what ever that may be. (petroleum?) I suspect but do not know that it has some waxes besides, perhaps bees wax or carnuaba. Please come back with any information you may have.

As for Black Rock I must say I have tried it and it has it's purpose. A client recomended it and was kind enough to send me a generous sample. It is not one of my favorites as it stinks and has a waxy buildup on old leather. I would suspect I would prefer it on slick surfaces but even then it is not user friendly as it will not dry properly to wipe with a cotton cloth.

I have used Lexol on certain leather pieces and it is OK. I still prefer Connoly's. As you so aptly stated time will tell. I have stated here as well as elswhere that I have done no long term tests on any of the products I talk about here and any or all of them may very well turn your holsters into mush in the very near future. I am no chemist and only work off of experience, observing how certain products react to the leather when I work on it.

I have talked with very knowledgable people who have studied this subject and are chemists and Neatsfoot oil was developed and used to break down leather fibers and repell water.
Specifically to break in and protect shoe soles. Since shoe soles need to be flexible and wear out in short order, Neatsfoot oil was the chemical for the job.

Now, I think using Neatsfoot oil on an artifact like a Luger holster is a recipe for destruction.
There is the argument that using nothing on leather is the way to preserve it and maybe they are right, but I can guarentee you this...I will never put money into a holster that has been treated with the stuff. You can squeeze the oil out of the leather after it is applied and if it sits awhile it impregnates the leather with a dark mass of oily stink. Then the holster is really flexible alright, like an oily rag.It will not take a shine as the oil repells any other substance applied like an oil slick.

Please! I emplore all the members, what ever you choose to put on your holster, from nothing to Connoly's, DO Not, under any circumstances pollute your fine historical artifact with Neatsfoot Oil.

Wes, I would think it beads water because of the waxes employed in it's composition or perhaps to some extent the Lanolin. Since Connoly's is a propriatary mix that is unknown to anyone but Connoly's other than what they voluntarily list as ingredients it is unknown exactly what all is in it. I suspect if the White Spirits they do list is in truth a petroleum product it evaporates quickly and is less harmful than we think. The Lanolin remains to do the job we ask.

I am a student of this craft and do not mean to belittle or antagonize but to protect and learn. Many thanks for all your comments. Jerry Burney