locking bolt spring

einnar · 10-12-2004, 10:11 PM

I am new in this list and it is my first time to handle a luger when my friend showed one and let me to keep it.According to him , he test shot the gun and it jam and when he tried to clear, the locking bolt and slide plate were move out.I searched in the web to see the diagram and how to field strip this gun.Ive noticed when it was locked open or when i moved the barel backward, locking bolt position went vertical and easily move out.Inside the hole where locking bolt inserted , i saw pin( seems a broken pin). I saw one diagram describe it as locking bolt spring but no clear picture or drwing how it looks like, I need help on where i could find picture of this or someone from this list could provide me a picture on how this pin/spring placed inside the hole, another thing is what is the use of small hole under front of the frame protruding to the hole for locking bolt.

Rannie

Vlim · 10-13-2004, 10:13 AM

Hi,

The little spring fits underneath the locking bolt and has an L-formed shape, the bottom portion going vertically into the frame.

The locking bolt can be removed from the frame by rotating it to the 'unlock' position and taking it out sideways.

John Sabato · 10-13-2004, 10:57 AM

Here is an illustration that may help you understand the appearance, function and location of the locking bolt spring.

This great illustration is an extract from the excellent e-book on the Luger Mechanicals by Gerard Henrotin. You can find a link to his e-books on the links and resources page of this website. I highly recommend all of his e-books on Lugers to new Luger owners or enthusiasts.

A- is the tip of the L-shape part of the spring that should protrude through the hole in the bottom of the frame in front of the trigger guard.

B- is the end of the spring that you should be able to see under the round portion of the locking bolt on the right side of the frame when the spring is properly installed.

C- is the indentation on the locking bolt where the bump on the spring (E) rests when the gun is assembled.

D- is the location of the spring when properly installed before the locking bolt has been installed.

The installed spring should provide moderae resistance to movement of the locking bolt with the upper half of the gun removed. If it drops down, then the spring is worn out or the notch in the locking bolt is worn...

I hope this has been helpful.

Pete Ebbink · 10-13-2004, 02:17 PM

Take down guide for a M1900 : see part number 17 - Admin JS

einnar · 10-13-2004, 09:44 PM

Thanks for the information , its really help, i will try to make one using may dremel.

Pete Ebbink · 10-13-2004, 11:37 PM

Hi Rannie,

Luger Forum member "LugerDoc" (aka Tom Heller) should be able to sell you some springs and he ships all over the world. He usually has DWM original springs as well as good repro springs; at very fair prices.

His email is : hellerarms@webtv.net

Regards,

Pete... <img border="0" alt="[typing]" title="" src="graemlins/yltype.gif" />

Vlim · 10-24-2004, 09:25 AM

Hi,

FWIW, the postwar Mauser springs work perfectly in original frames, the lower portion is a tad longer and shows a bit more from the bottom of the frame.

Lugerdoc · 11-01-2004, 08:05 AM

GvV, I agree that the Mauser Parabellum TD lever springs will work in a PO8, but the Parabellum is "long frame" like the M1900 & early 1906s, so this spring is perfect for them and almost flush with the bottom of the frame. TH

Pete Ebbink · 11-04-2004, 11:18 AM

Borrowed this photo from e-Bay...to better illustrate the spring :

Thor · 11-04-2004, 12:00 PM

These can sometimes be a bit of a hassle to install. What I like to do is put a toothpick as a spacer under the end of the length that sticks out to the right to rotate the part that goes into the frame hole. This helps better align that part for easier insertion into the frame. After the left end starts into the frame I remove the toothpick. I have installed this with and without the toothpick trick and they just seem easier to install with the toothpick! Thanks for the picture, it is a good one!

wil franken · 11-14-2004, 01:48 PM

Who can supply me? I've got the same problem
Looking for:new locking bolt (preferrably stamped #31 as my luger has #5531) and a locking bolt spring

Edward Tinker · 11-14-2004, 02:38 PM

Please put requests like this in the "Wanted" section.

Ed

Lugerdoc · 11-14-2004, 06:19 PM

Note to all: New European made locking bolt springs available @$15 each or 2 for $25 postpaid in US. I also have a few tired used original for the purist, but I don't guarantee these @$10. TH

John Sabato · 11-29-2004, 01:56 PM

For those of you with the mechanical skills necessary to produce these springs, here is an extract of the original 1913 blueprints for the takedown lever spring (all dimensions are in millimeters naturally):

Enjoy!

Vlim · 11-30-2004, 06:30 AM

Hi,

Some fieldtest experience showed that it's important to test a combination of the spring and the takedown lever/locking bolt.

An old spring with a decent bolt will work, an old spring with a worn bolt will not. A new spring with a decent bolt will be difficult to operate, etc...

It pays to try a combination of both in order to archieve best functionality.

10-12-2004, 10:11 PM	#1
einnar New User Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Philippines Posts: 2 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	locking bolt spring I am new in this list and it is my first time to handle a luger when my friend showed one and let me to keep it.According to him , he test shot the gun and it jam and when he tried to clear, the locking bolt and slide plate were move out.I searched in the web to see the diagram and how to field strip this gun.Ive noticed when it was locked open or when i moved the barel backward, locking bolt position went vertical and easily move out.Inside the hole where locking bolt inserted , i saw pin( seems a broken pin). I saw one diagram describe it as locking bolt spring but no clear picture or drwing how it looks like, I need help on where i could find picture of this or someone from this list could provide me a picture on how this pin/spring placed inside the hole, another thing is what is the use of small hole under front of the frame protruding to the hole for locking bolt. Rannie

11-01-2004, 08:05 AM	#8
Lugerdoc Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: POB 398 St.Charles,MO. 63302 Posts: 5,089 Thanks: 6 Thanked 736 Times in 483 Posts	GvV, I agree that the Mauser Parabellum TD lever springs will work in a PO8, but the Parabellum is "long frame" like the M1900 & early 1906s, so this spring is perfect for them and almost flush with the bottom of the frame. TH __________________ Tom Heller POB 398 ST.Charles, MO. 63302 Tel 636-447-3006 lugerdoc@charter.net

11-04-2004, 12:00 PM	#10
Thor User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico Posts: 4,583 Thanks: 958 Thanked 970 Times in 276 Posts	These can sometimes be a bit of a hassle to install. What I like to do is put a toothpick as a spacer under the end of the length that sticks out to the right to rotate the part that goes into the frame hole. This helps better align that part for easier insertion into the frame. After the left end starts into the frame I remove the toothpick. I have installed this with and without the toothpick trick and they just seem easier to install with the toothpick! Thanks for the picture, it is a good one! __________________ Thor's Luger Clinic http://members.rennlist.com/lugerman/ Ted Green (Thor Yaller Boots) 725 Western Hills Dr SE, Rio Rancho, NM 87124 915-526-8925 Email thor340@aol.com ----------------------------------- John3:3 Jesus answered and said to him, "Most assuredly, I say to you, unless one is born again, he cannot see the kingdom of God."

11-14-2004, 01:48 PM	#11
wil franken User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: The Netherlands Posts: 14 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Who can supply me? I've got the same problem Looking for:new locking bolt (preferrably stamped #31 as my luger has #5531) and a locking bolt spring __________________ if it is made after 1937, it has been well tested...

11-14-2004, 02:38 PM	#12
Edward Tinker Super Moderator Eternal Lifer LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: North of Spokane, WA Posts: 15,916 Thanks: 1,995 Thanked 4,507 Times in 2,081 Posts	Please put requests like this in the "Wanted" section. Ed __________________ Edward Tinker ************ Co-Author of Police Lugers - Co-Author of Simson Lugers Author of Veteran Bring Backs Vol I, Vol II, Vol III and Vol IV

10-13-2004, 10:13 AM	#2
Vlim Moderator Lifetime LugerForum Patron Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Europe Posts: 5,049 Thanks: 1,035 Thanked 3,957 Times in 1,200 Posts	Hi, The little spring fits underneath the locking bolt and has an L-formed shape, the bottom portion going vertically into the frame. The locking bolt can be removed from the frame by rotating it to the 'unlock' position and taking it out sideways.

10-13-2004, 10:57 AM	#3
John Sabato Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: The Capital of the Free World Posts: 10,152 Thanks: 3,003 Thanked 2,304 Times in 1,096 Posts	Here is an illustration that may help you understand the appearance, function and location of the locking bolt spring. This great illustration is an extract from the excellent e-book on the Luger Mechanicals by Gerard Henrotin. You can find a link to his e-books on the links and resources page of this website. I highly recommend all of his e-books on Lugers to new Luger owners or enthusiasts. A- is the tip of the L-shape part of the spring that should protrude through the hole in the bottom of the frame in front of the trigger guard. B- is the end of the spring that you should be able to see under the round portion of the locking bolt on the right side of the frame when the spring is properly installed. C- is the indentation on the locking bolt where the bump on the spring (E) rests when the gun is assembled. D- is the location of the spring when properly installed before the locking bolt has been installed. The installed spring should provide moderae resistance to movement of the locking bolt with the upper half of the gun removed. If it drops down, then the spring is worn out or the notch in the locking bolt is worn... I hope this has been helpful. __________________ regards, -John S "...We hold these truths to be self-evident that ALL men are created EQUAL *and are endowed by their Creator* with certain UNALIENABLE* rights, and among these are life, LIBERTY, and the pursuit of happiness..."*

10-13-2004, 02:17 PM	#4
Pete Ebbink User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: The USA Posts: 5,919 Thanks: 0 Thanked 6 Times in 4 Posts	Take down guide for a M1900 : see part number 17 - Admin JS

10-13-2004, 09:44 PM	#5
einnar New User Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Philippines Posts: 2 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Thanks for the information , its really help, i will try to make one using may dremel.

10-13-2004, 11:37 PM	#6
Pete Ebbink User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: The USA Posts: 5,919 Thanks: 0 Thanked 6 Times in 4 Posts	Hi Rannie, Luger Forum member "LugerDoc" (aka Tom Heller) should be able to sell you some springs and he ships all over the world. He usually has DWM original springs as well as good repro springs; at very fair prices. His email is : hellerarms@webtv.net Regards, Pete... <img border="0" alt="[typing]" title="" src="graemlins/yltype.gif" />

10-24-2004, 09:25 AM	#7
Vlim Moderator Lifetime LugerForum Patron Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Europe Posts: 5,049 Thanks: 1,035 Thanked 3,957 Times in 1,200 Posts	Hi, FWIW, the postwar Mauser springs work perfectly in original frames, the lower portion is a tad longer and shows a bit more from the bottom of the frame.

11-04-2004, 11:18 AM	#9
Pete Ebbink User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: The USA Posts: 5,919 Thanks: 0 Thanked 6 Times in 4 Posts	Borrowed this photo from e-Bay...to better illustrate the spring :

11-14-2004, 06:19 PM	#13
Lugerdoc Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: POB 398 St.Charles,MO. 63302 Posts: 5,089 Thanks: 6 Thanked 736 Times in 483 Posts	Note to all: New European made locking bolt springs available @$15 each or 2 for $25 postpaid in US. I also have a few tired used original for the purist, but I don't guarantee these @$10. TH __________________ Tom Heller POB 398 ST.Charles, MO. 63302 Tel 636-447-3006 lugerdoc@charter.net

11-29-2004, 01:56 PM	#14
John Sabato Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: The Capital of the Free World Posts: 10,152 Thanks: 3,003 Thanked 2,304 Times in 1,096 Posts	For those of you with the mechanical skills necessary to produce these springs, here is an extract of the original 1913 blueprints for the takedown lever spring (all dimensions are in millimeters naturally): Enjoy! __________________ regards, -John S "...We hold these truths to be self-evident that ALL men are created EQUAL *and are endowed by their Creator* with certain UNALIENABLE* rights, and among these are life, LIBERTY, and the pursuit of happiness..."*

11-30-2004, 06:30 AM	#15
Vlim Moderator Lifetime LugerForum Patron Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Europe Posts: 5,049 Thanks: 1,035 Thanked 3,957 Times in 1,200 Posts	Hi, Some fieldtest experience showed that it's important to test a combination of the spring and the takedown lever/locking bolt. An old spring with a decent bolt will work, an old spring with a worn bolt will not. A new spring with a decent bolt will be difficult to operate, etc... It pays to try a combination of both in order to archieve best functionality.