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#21 |
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Northern Kentucky
Posts: 62
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Right on target with the SLR and macro mode. In another life photography was a big part of my employment. I hate to age myself but I used and still own several RB67 Maymia's, a Blad and severl motor driven Nikons. While most of the film cameras aren't valued or appreciated today they still provide excellent images. To add fuel to the age thing I'll also admit I still have and occasionally use a Speed Graphics 4X5 with VPS color sheet film or 18 asa technical pan b&w, enough ancient history.
Bill |
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#22 |
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Join Date: Feb 2010
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spot on with the DSLR and macro lens recommendations. If you are serious about pictures, I recommend this route as well. For this article I was targeting the beginner.
On the subject of general marco photography I would also recommend a larger f-stop (smaller aperature) so that you can get as much detail as possible for the surrounding areas, unless of course your intention is to blur out the areas not of interest. ![]() |
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#23 |
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Boston, MA
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Great thread and super easy tips on getting better pictures!
An SLR camera is a must for really good photos like this one. Mark |
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#24 |
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Lifetime LugerForum Patron Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Europe
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Nice tutorial.
I created a couple of custom stands so I can balance the pistols like they are 'floating' inside the light box. This way you can avoid drop shadows, which makes it easier to process the photo digitally afterwards. The stands are nothing more than a flat piece of wood with a 6mm rod (also wood) stuck in it. I can balance the pistols either on the frame (through the magazine opening) or the breech block (slide the 6mm rod through the muzzle and let the pistol rest on the top of the rod as it presses agains the breech). Usually I add a shot empty 9mm case as extra protection. The light box is a cheap folding one like shown earlier. The light sources are a couple of cheap building lights. I usually don't worry about the white balance that much, as it can be rectified by the editing software later. |
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#25 |
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 20
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vlim, thanks for the tips. I've always wondered the technique behind the "floating" gun. Now I know how they do it thanks to your post!
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#26 |
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 10
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The 2 F-Stops that create the sharpest images are 5.6 and 8. Although not good for good depth of field these stops provide the sharpest pictures.
I am a photographer. Digital 35mm |
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#27 |
Lifer
Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Austin, Texas
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Great tips !
I would prefer an SLR camera, but I don't own one. I used to use a point and shoot digital camera, but the new smart phones have amazing cameras on them! You can now buy good photography boxes like the one show below from about $65 (The "SANOTO 12"x8" Portable Studio Light Box Kit" shown below has a color balanced florescent light built-in). Simpler tent boxes are even cheaper, but you have to be careful your light sources don't melt the fabric if you get too close. The boxes work well outdoors, as well. Some prefer two incondescent lights - one on each side, for sharper edges and shadows, avoiding the glare you sometimes get on flat surfaces like guns. The white tent material helps defuse the light and even it out, avoiding glare and preserving correct colors. A tripod isn't required, but it really helps. Use the box to photograph all of your valuables, books, documents, jewelry and stuff you may want to sell on an auction site, like eBay. It's well worth the time to set it up and get a good light. I also purchased a small magnifier lens that attached to my iPhone for about $30 (you may have seen Sherlock Holmes using it on the TV show Elementary). There are a variety of other clip on after-market lens. The magnifier allows me to photograph something about 1/3 of an inch in diameter - like an acceptance stamp and serial number. (see below) |
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#28 |
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Join Date: May 2017
Location: Yorktown, VA
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Great tips for photos. I collect trumpets. My experience is that the real bargains are in the crappy photos. But you really have to know your trumpets. For example, I collect Olds trumpets and can tell at a glance what model, roughly what year, etc. usually from one crappy photo. I have gotten an unbelievable bargain or two from scanning the crappy, single photo adds that don't even mention the name Olds.
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