Best Stainless Luger Clone

Fla.Mallard · 05-01-2021, 11:31 AM

I'm not very familiar with the Luger clones. I want a shooter and I don't want to use any of my all-matching genuine Lugers.

I thought I could get a clone and use/abuse it as a shooter.

Is there one that has been shown to be more reliable with fewer malfunctions?

Bill_in_VA · 05-01-2021, 12:33 PM

Have you considered a nickle plated original? They can often be found quite reasonably priced, plus you aren't fighting reliability issues with the clones

Bigshooter · 05-01-2021, 01:25 PM

I have a Mitchell Arms dated 1993, It shoots great. I do however recommend not using the very pretty stainless mags that come with it. They have flimsy feed lips. An after market mag has it operating very well.

Vlim · 05-01-2021, 03:52 PM

Get a shooter grade P08 and forget about the stainless ones.

Alternatively, you could consider a Mauser Parabellum from the 1970s, although these have become collectable as well.

My 'shooter' was a restored 1937 Mauser with an East-German barrel. Pretty gun, technically sound but not in the collectable class.

Doubs · 05-01-2021, 04:28 PM

I have to agree with Bill & Vlim; get a shooter grade original and forget the stainless copies. Every stainless Luger I've examined left a lot to be desired in the fit and finish category. I've yet to see one that I'd own.

ithacaartist · 05-01-2021, 07:40 PM

They were apparently branded to several different distributors in succession, as well as By Aimco itself. I have only owned one, but my impression from comparing stuff presented online is that different brands may have been specified as to fit and finish differently. What you want to avoid are the ones that were over-buffed to have wavy surfaces that should be flat, and a lot of rounded corners that should be sharp.

Mine had an issue with extraction that deformed the brass. Each empty was slammed against an edge on the inside left of the upper. I was able to take the bias out of the process by dressing the claws of the extractor with a diamond needle file to be symmetrical.

Its frame ears where the toggle strikes it were spalled a bit by previous use. This was not unexpected, per their reputation. Trued with a file, they looked good again, and the raw stainless is easy as pie to blend back in--as opposed to one with an actual finish. Stainless steel's application to firearms construction improved throughout, and the later-made ones may have fewer problems like this.

The ejector had been sanded too thin when it was made and was bent. Nor was it as hard as it should have been. An original Luger ejector filled in OK, but generally parts interchangeability is a crap-shoot. Parts are easier to obtain for originals.

I bought mine for its quaintness and didn't expect much in the way of art-level metal work or even performance. It was fun to mess with for a while, then I passed it on to another collector, who would go on to solve another issue or two with it. Some may run fine and might continue to do so, but unless you want to sign up for something that might turn out to be more a project than anything else, then buy anything else.

mrerick · 05-02-2021, 11:08 AM

My shooter Luger is a 1937 Mauser made Luger with a bad case of "road rash" on one side. It's all matching, fitted at the factory, and is mechanically excellent. A Mauser Luger that is matching but not in collectible state would be my choice, followed by a Luger made from a complete matching frame and a complete matching canon assembly (receiver / barrel / toggle) from another donor gun.

Another option would be an armory fitted Russian Capture / VoPo pistol. Some of these are even all matching pistols that have been refinished and marked, sometimes with replacement grips.

I personally have no interest in the stainless Lugers because of the metallurgy and other issues that are mentioned above.

Fla.Mallard · 05-03-2021, 02:17 PM

Thanks to all for your responses. Needless to say, you have changed my mind and now I'll look for a mismatched genuine Luger shooter.

DonVoigt · 05-03-2021, 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fla.Mallard

Thanks to all for your responses. Needless to say, you have changed my mind and now I'll look for a mismatched genuine Luger shooter.

Good decision.

05-01-2021, 11:31 AM	#1
Fla.Mallard User Join Date: Jun 2020 Posts: 99 Thanks: 244 Thanked 95 Times in 37 Posts	Best Stainless Luger Clone I'm not very familiar with the Luger clones. I want a shooter and I don't want to use any of my all-matching genuine Lugers. I thought I could get a clone and use/abuse it as a shooter. Is there one that has been shown to be more reliable with fewer malfunctions?

05-01-2021, 12:33 PM	#2
Bill_in_VA User Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Southwest Virginia Posts: 373 Thanks: 768 Thanked 554 Times in 198 Posts	Have you considered a nickle plated original? They can often be found quite reasonably priced, plus you aren't fighting reliability issues with the clones __________________ John 8:32 reive (riːv) vb (Military) (intr) dialect Scot and Northern English to go on a plundering raid [variant of reave] ˈreiver n e.g., " Some view the Border Reivers as loveable rogues."

05-01-2021, 07:40 PM	#6
ithacaartist Twice a Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Atop the highest hill in Schuyler County NY Posts: 3,346 Thanks: 7,273 Thanked 2,578 Times in 1,365 Posts	They were apparently branded to several different distributors in succession, as well as By Aimco itself. I have only owned one, but my impression from comparing stuff presented online is that different brands may have been specified as to fit and finish differently. What you want to avoid are the ones that were over-buffed to have wavy surfaces that should be flat, and a lot of rounded corners that should be sharp. Mine had an issue with extraction that deformed the brass. Each empty was slammed against an edge on the inside left of the upper. I was able to take the bias out of the process by dressing the claws of the extractor with a diamond needle file to be symmetrical. Its frame ears where the toggle strikes it were spalled a bit by previous use. This was not unexpected, per their reputation. Trued with a file, they looked good again, and the raw stainless is easy as pie to blend back in--as opposed to one with an actual finish. Stainless steel's application to firearms construction improved throughout, and the later-made ones may have fewer problems like this. The ejector had been sanded too thin when it was made and was bent. Nor was it as hard as it should have been. An original Luger ejector filled in OK, but generally parts interchangeability is a crap-shoot. Parts are easier to obtain for originals. I bought mine for its quaintness and didn't expect much in the way of art-level metal work or even performance. It was fun to mess with for a while, then I passed it on to another collector, who would go on to solve another issue or two with it. Some may run fine and might continue to do so, but unless you want to sign up for something that might turn out to be more a project than anything else, then buy anything else. __________________ "... Liberty is the seed and soil, the air and light, the dew and rain of progress, love and joy."-- Robert Greene Ingersoll 1894

05-02-2021, 11:08 AM	#7
mrerick Super Moderator - Patron LugerForum Life Patron Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Eastern North Carolina, USA Posts: 3,909 Thanks: 1,374 Thanked 3,110 Times in 1,510 Posts	My shooter Luger is a 1937 Mauser made Luger with a bad case of "road rash" on one side. It's all matching, fitted at the factory, and is mechanically excellent. A Mauser Luger that is matching but not in collectible state would be my choice, followed by a Luger made from a complete matching frame and a complete matching canon assembly (receiver / barrel / toggle) from another donor gun. Another option would be an armory fitted Russian Capture / VoPo pistol. Some of these are even all matching pistols that have been refinished and marked, sometimes with replacement grips. I personally have no interest in the stainless Lugers because of the metallurgy and other issues that are mentioned above. __________________ Igitur si vis pacem, para bellum - - Therefore if you want peace, prepare for war.

05-01-2021, 01:25 PM	#3
Bigshooter New User Join Date: Dec 2020 Location: Whidbey Island WA. Posts: 1 Thanks: 0 Thanked 3 Times in 1 Post	I have a Mitchell Arms dated 1993, It shoots great. I do however recommend not using the very pretty stainless mags that come with it. They have flimsy feed lips. An after market mag has it operating very well.

05-01-2021, 03:52 PM	#4
Vlim Moderator Lifetime LugerForum Patron Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Europe Posts: 5,053 Thanks: 1,036 Thanked 3,988 Times in 1,205 Posts	Get a shooter grade P08 and forget about the stainless ones. Alternatively, you could consider a Mauser Parabellum from the 1970s, although these have become collectable as well. My 'shooter' was a restored 1937 Mauser with an East-German barrel. Pretty gun, technically sound but not in the collectable class.

05-01-2021, 04:28 PM	#5
Doubs User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Byron, Georgia Posts: 1,696 Thanks: 792 Thanked 1,679 Times in 552 Posts	I have to agree with Bill & Vlim; get a shooter grade original and forget the stainless copies. Every stainless Luger I've examined left a lot to be desired in the fit and finish category. I've yet to see one that I'd own.

05-03-2021, 02:17 PM	#8
Fla.Mallard User Join Date: Jun 2020 Posts: 99 Thanks: 244 Thanked 95 Times in 37 Posts	Thanks to all for your responses. Needless to say, you have changed my mind and now I'll look for a mismatched genuine Luger shooter.