Sure Fire Rust Removal! - Page 2

aptech77 · 02-03-2011, 11:54 AM

Do you think it will work on this..?

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/Vie...Item=214479006

John Sabato · 02-03-2011, 02:45 PM

LOL... No.

hardinge · 02-03-2011, 05:30 PM

Paladinpainter · 12-04-2011, 07:21 AM

John: I did a quick test on the electrolytic method on an S/42 frame and the cylinder of a S&W Model 19. I didnt notice any effect on the caustic bluing, but the bare metal did appear a little brighter. I didnt pursue the experiment for very long because I was trying to remove the bluing. If I refinish a rust blued pistol, I'll let you know what happens.
John

4 Scale · 06-24-2017, 01:46 PM

I tried the rust removal technique on what I believe were a couple salt-blued parts and got results that were ah interesting on the first try and excellent on the second.

I have a shooter with a blued s-link and decided to remove the blue with the electrical method of this thread. I followed the instructions, including using steel (a screw) for the positive connection. After 5 minutes in the bath, I inspected the part and the blue seemed to be coming off.

To complete the process and improve matters, rather than use a steel screw I decided to use about 2" of copper wire, as we all know that copper is a good conductor. I substituted the copper for the steel screw and let the process go for about 15 minutes.

Before and after pictures below.

4 Scale · 06-24-2017, 01:52 PM

It was not my intent to copper plate anything so I was quite astounded to discover the plated the s-link. Fortunately the copper was quite thin and easily removed via 220 grit sandpaper. It appears the blue was replaced by a very thin layer of copper. The part looks ok after sanding off the copper to the bare metal. As it goes into a shooter, no harm done.

Having learned my lesson, I repeated the process with a trigger bar on a different shooter. Being careful to use steel for the positive connection. After about 30 minutes I was pleased with the result.

So I conclude the process does remove blue, and that you should use steel not copper for the positive connection. While I am not a chemist (obviously), I've read that both rust blue and hot blue techniques create the same surface coating on the metal; therefore I would expect this technique to remove both types of bluing.

02-03-2011, 02:45 PM	#22
John Sabato Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: The Capital of the Free World Posts: 10,154 Thanks: 3,003 Thanked 2,306 Times in 1,097 Posts	LOL... No. __________________ regards, -John S "...We hold these truths to be self-evident that ALL men are created EQUAL *and are endowed by their Creator* with certain UNALIENABLE* rights, and among these are life, LIBERTY, and the pursuit of happiness..."*

02-03-2011, 05:30 PM	#23
hardinge User Join Date: Nov 2010 Posts: 10 Thanks: 1 Thanked 7 Times in 4 Posts	another vid on the same subject <click

06-24-2017, 01:46 PM	#25
4 Scale User Join Date: Nov 2014 Posts: 544 Thanks: 194 Thanked 489 Times in 251 Posts	How to Copper Plate Your Luger I tried the rust removal technique on what I believe were a couple salt-blued parts and got results that were ah interesting on the first try and excellent on the second. I have a shooter with a blued s-link and decided to remove the blue with the electrical method of this thread. I followed the instructions, including using steel (a screw) for the positive connection. After 5 minutes in the bath, I inspected the part and the blue seemed to be coming off. To complete the process and improve matters, rather than use a steel screw I decided to use about 2" of copper wire, as we all know that copper is a good conductor. I substituted the copper for the steel screw and let the process go for about 15 minutes. Before and after pictures below. Attached Thumbnails

06-24-2017, 01:52 PM	#26
4 Scale User Join Date: Nov 2014 Posts: 544 Thanks: 194 Thanked 489 Times in 251 Posts	It was not my intent to copper plate anything so I was quite astounded to discover the plated the s-link. Fortunately the copper was quite thin and easily removed via 220 grit sandpaper. It appears the blue was replaced by a very thin layer of copper. The part looks ok after sanding off the copper to the bare metal. As it goes into a shooter, no harm done. Having learned my lesson, I repeated the process with a trigger bar on a different shooter. Being careful to use steel for the positive connection. After about 30 minutes I was pleased with the result. So I conclude the process does remove blue, and that you should use steel not copper for the positive connection. While I am not a chemist (obviously), I've read that both rust blue and hot blue techniques create the same surface coating on the metal; therefore I would expect this technique to remove both types of bluing. Attached Thumbnails

02-03-2011, 11:54 AM	#21
aptech77 User Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Illinois Posts: 85 Thanks: 10 Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts	Do you think it will work on this..? http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/Vie...Item=214479006

12-04-2011, 07:21 AM	#24
Paladinpainter User Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Vermont Posts: 64 Thanks: 14 Thanked 45 Times in 15 Posts	John: I did a quick test on the electrolytic method on an S/42 frame and the cylinder of a S&W Model 19. I didnt notice any effect on the caustic bluing, but the bare metal did appear a little brighter. I didnt pursue the experiment for very long because I was trying to remove the bluing. If I refinish a rust blued pistol, I'll let you know what happens. John