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#1 |
Lifer
Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002
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I checked the blueprints, (as I am sure those of you who have purchased the blueprint CD already have), and found that the two ends that fit into the frame are round and 2.5mm in size... the holes are also 2.5mm so that would indicate a press fit to me.
I thought I had remembered that there was a retaining drift pin on the inside of the frame, but not according to the blueprints. While I don't have a Luger with me at work ![]() IF the ends of the loop are machined to 2.5mm and the holes drilled to that size as well, the fit would be very tight, and if the loop were refrigerated, and the frame warmed up, insertion would be not so difficult... once the two parts were the same temperature, it would take substantial effort to remove the staple. I would submit that if you find a loose lanyard staple as Ed Tinker has, someone has already attempted removal and it didn't just loosen from use. Just my $0.02 worth of engineering/gunsmithing expertise... ![]()
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regards, -John S "...We hold these truths to be self-evident that ALL men are created EQUAL and are endowed by their Creator with certain UNALIENABLE rights, and among these are life, LIBERTY, and the pursuit of happiness..." |
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#2 |
Lifer
Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Feb 2009
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As with all my posts/threads, ALL wags/experiences/mistakes are welcomed! Even if they are wrong/outdated/completely off-topic, they can stimulate me to explore avenues of thought I might not otherwise have considered. Others have even admitted to learning something new. <gasp!>
![]() Pressing the staple in seems most likely. Staking, peening, welding are possible but would they bother with a part intended to only hold a pound of weight (if it hung from the lanyard)??? Probably not. The press fit would suffice. That the area around the 'legs' is machined or finished after the pressing is curious. My 1900AE clearly shows grinding after the area was milled and then the staple pressed in. But my S/42 only shows the mill tool marks, which would seem to indicate that Mauser at least switched the finishing operations around. All good stuff. But I'm still not sure if the loop itself will withstand repeated firings with a relatively heavy object hanging off of it...Or clamped to it... ![]() Ed seems interested in removing his staple from that sawed-off frame. Hopefully he can add his experience to Bill's. ![]() Yes, I also think that. Like the stock lug, the jigs and fixtures for those two appendages probably were used to locate or suspend the frame for further operations, and rather than design/manufacture new jigs, the various companies just used the old fixtures. They still served a purpose, even if not the original one. Why re-invent the wheel???
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#3 |
Lifer 2X
Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: May 2005
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Here is an original lanyard loop. I think they were pressed in and then the protruding ends ground or machined off. I removed one years ago just as stated by GT, with a small punch. . Inserting was more difficult because of the tight fit. I used a small nylon hammer and slowly tapped both sides in. Bill
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Bill Lyon |
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#4 |
Lifer
Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Feb 2009
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OHO!!! Now that is priceless! It is a 3mm rod with shoulders/ends turned down to 2.5mm, as on the P38 loops that Olle did.
![]() Thanks Bill! ![]() Armed with this knowledge, I searched TBLAP and found the blueprint measurements for it...1900, P04, and P08...All interesting...It seems to have 'evolved'... ![]()
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