Getting these to funtion - Page 2

farinacci56 · 03-28-2015, 12:51 PM

When you are right you are right. I put 50 rounds of factory federal 115 fmj ( all I could get) through this 1917 LP 08 and she was 100%- so its gotta the ammo. Will try fmj reloads and go from there

K.Wilhelm · 03-28-2015, 02:47 PM

Great news, and thanks for letting us know!

Bill

rhuff · 03-28-2015, 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by farinacci56

When you are right you are right. I put 50 rounds of factory federal 115 fmj ( all I could get) through this 1917 LP 08 and she was 100%- so its gotta the ammo. Will try fmj reloads and go from there

So glad to hear this. Now you have a baseline to work against. You now know that this Luger will function with RNFMJ, so your handloading can proceed from there as to which bullet profiles, bullet materials, OALs, etc. you want to try. This is the challenging, and fun part of handloading......with a real feeling of self accomplishment once you have your loads shooting 100% reliably, and accurately. Keep us informed, and congrats!!

noylj · 03-31-2015, 04:19 AM

All the above, particularly magazine issues, and:
My personal opinion: try a SWC or the long conical nose bullets like RCBS 09-115-RN. COL needs to be fiddled with. You are obviously quite close--try some a bit longer and some at reduced COLs until you get perfect function.
+1 for Power Pistol, but you have to use what you have.
I have had a P-08 not only eject the empty case, but also eject the next round. Surprise seeing two cases flying out of the gun. Magazine and COL issues.

farinacci56 · 03-31-2015, 09:47 AM

I have loaded up some 115 SWC hollow points with a near max load of 4756- I still have a few pounds. Since she is 100 5 with factory it's gotta be me who made the ammo. We will see. For oal I used some orig . German WW2 ammo. The oal is 1. 175

I have a very nice reblued 1906 American Eagle in 7.65 that is so accurate it is scary. Shoots like my M 52 S & W at 25 yards. The function is perfect except sometimes the toggle doesn't close just short of battery. This might happen say 5-10 times out of 50 I put a new mainspring in. Any ideas? regards Michael

G.T. · 03-31-2015, 12:10 PM

Hi Michael, I have found that the slightest drag on the fit between the receiver rails and the frame rail relief, will cause it not to close consistently... It usually has to be smooth as glass thru the length of recoil, thru return to battery... super fine lapping will cure it up....

..... til....lat'r......GT

rhuff · 03-31-2015, 06:25 PM

One thing that I always consider on the 7.65Para(30 luger) is the shoulder on the brass. Be sure that your sizing die is fully down and that it is setting the shoulder back far enough. I was having a problem with this, and removed .015-.020in. off of the base of the sizing die(via lathe) to remedy the problem. Compare your handloads to factory new 7.65 ammo as to where they sit in the chamber(with the toggle train removed). Hold the barrel vertical and drop the ammo into the chamber. Just a thought.

farinacci56 · 03-31-2015, 07:13 PM

Gents thank you I will try this tonight. The gun is unbelievable. I shot a 46 out of 50 the other day slow fire on the std 25 yard American target.

they really put them together then

farinacci56 · 04-07-2015, 08:30 AM

I tried taking apart the gun and using the chamber for a gauge to make sure the reloaded ammo was not hanging up due to improper resizing. this was not evident. I think the comment about lapping being needed is the answer. The gun was reblued a long time ago ( a nice job) but I think there is bluing on the bearing surfaces of the breechblock on the sides where it slides back and forth on the inner rails of the receiver fork. I think also there is blue on the inner bearing surfaces of the receiver fork as well ( I hope my terms are correct, or at least descriptive) Judging from the 3 other originals I have, I see these surfaces were left in the white. My question is what compound would I use ( and how) to get the bluing out of those bearing surfaces? thanks MC

03-28-2015, 02:47 PM	#22
K.Wilhelm User Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: South Central Colorado Posts: 215 Thanks: 45 Thanked 109 Times in 66 Posts	Feeding issues Great news, and thanks for letting us know! Bill __________________ NRA Endowment Life member Proud veteran of the Naval Security Group

03-31-2015, 12:10 PM	#26
G.T. Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Chandler Arizona Posts: 3,506 Thanks: 1,318 Thanked 3,652 Times in 1,004 Posts	not closing all the way.... Hi Michael, I have found that the slightest drag on the fit between the receiver rails and the frame rail relief, will cause it not to close consistently... It usually has to be smooth as glass thru the length of recoil, thru return to battery... super fine lapping will cure it up.... ..... til....lat'r......GT

03-28-2015, 12:51 PM	#21
farinacci56 User Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 40 Thanks: 0 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts	When you are right you are right. I put 50 rounds of factory federal 115 fmj ( all I could get) through this 1917 LP 08 and she was 100%- so its gotta the ammo. Will try fmj reloads and go from there

03-31-2015, 04:19 AM	#24
noylj User Join Date: Mar 2013 Posts: 41 Thanks: 0 Thanked 13 Times in 12 Posts	All the above, particularly magazine issues, and: My personal opinion: try a SWC or the long conical nose bullets like RCBS 09-115-RN. COL needs to be fiddled with. You are obviously quite close--try some a bit longer and some at reduced COLs until you get perfect function. +1 for Power Pistol, but you have to use what you have. I have had a P-08 not only eject the empty case, but also eject the next round. Surprise seeing two cases flying out of the gun. Magazine and COL issues.

03-31-2015, 09:47 AM	#25
farinacci56 User Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 40 Thanks: 0 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts	I have loaded up some 115 SWC hollow points with a near max load of 4756- I still have a few pounds. Since she is 100 5 with factory it's gotta be me who made the ammo. We will see. For oal I used some orig . German WW2 ammo. The oal is 1. 175 I have a very nice reblued 1906 American Eagle in 7.65 that is so accurate it is scary. Shoots like my M 52 S & W at 25 yards. The function is perfect except sometimes the toggle doesn't close just short of battery. This might happen say 5-10 times out of 50 I put a new mainspring in. Any ideas? regards Michael

03-31-2015, 06:25 PM	#27
rhuff Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Az. Posts: 2,289 Thanks: 2,707 Thanked 971 Times in 716 Posts	One thing that I always consider on the 7.65Para(30 luger) is the shoulder on the brass. Be sure that your sizing die is fully down and that it is setting the shoulder back far enough. I was having a problem with this, and removed .015-.020in. off of the base of the sizing die(via lathe) to remedy the problem. Compare your handloads to factory new 7.65 ammo as to where they sit in the chamber(with the toggle train removed). Hold the barrel vertical and drop the ammo into the chamber. Just a thought.

03-31-2015, 07:13 PM	#28
farinacci56 User Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 40 Thanks: 0 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts	Gents thank you I will try this tonight. The gun is unbelievable. I shot a 46 out of 50 the other day slow fire on the std 25 yard American target. they really put them together then

04-07-2015, 08:30 AM	#29
farinacci56 User Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 40 Thanks: 0 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts	I tried taking apart the gun and using the chamber for a gauge to make sure the reloaded ammo was not hanging up due to improper resizing. this was not evident. I think the comment about lapping being needed is the answer. The gun was reblued a long time ago ( a nice job) but I think there is bluing on the bearing surfaces of the breechblock on the sides where it slides back and forth on the inner rails of the receiver fork. I think also there is blue on the inner bearing surfaces of the receiver fork as well ( I hope my terms are correct, or at least descriptive) Judging from the 3 other originals I have, I see these surfaces were left in the white. My question is what compound would I use ( and how) to get the bluing out of those bearing surfaces? thanks MC