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06-26-2013, 02:04 PM | #41 |
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06-26-2013, 02:21 PM | #42 |
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Rich..I don't know either. I have always considered anything screwed in to be incorrect for the previous reasons I have given.
The Carbine rod may be an anomoly. It is carried either in a flat case where it COULD unscrew and fall out or perhaps placed in a hard case? Either way..a rod that screws in makes no sense whatever. What is it's purpose? Most modern rods that screw together are to condense the length. That is not necessary on short rods or a carbine length. If it was to replace it with some other type/length of rod..where are they? The worst part about rods that screw into a barrel is that it creates an extremely weak section at a critical stress area. To accomodate a threaded screw in a same size shaft..it is necessary to make a portion of the rod at least one half the thickness of the rod proper..if not more! IF any original rods were threaded.. it was and is.. stupidity on a colossal scale. I don't believe the Germans would have done it. Norm.. The shafts on original rods are hard soldered to the handles. I don't know whether they are threaded or not. It would have made much more sense if one were to join a soldered rod with a simple hole and shaft. No threading necessary. This method would provide less labor, a flat seal for solder at the joint and a stronger fixture that would be as good as an unmolested rod.
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06-26-2013, 02:23 PM | #43 | |
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Is the brass rod w/auger supposed to be removable??? I don't think I can understand this without looking at/inspecting one...
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06-26-2013, 02:23 PM | #44 |
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Eric
I have a rod like yours. I don't know if the brass rod is threaded or not, but the steel neck is staked/crimped to the brass shaft so it will not come out. I think it is Portuguese because the end opposite the oiler has both KK 10 in circle and 5 in circle. I will try and post pictures later. Thanks Ed |
06-26-2013, 02:27 PM | #45 |
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Easy with paint , so , new light
About the inside , the rod go to be level , flush(dictionary) so , only we see the brass cercle for 4 or 5 mm / Got also a french rod for the "manufacture" luger , with also like the gun have inventory number stamped , and the milling brass is 45 ° from standard one's .
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06-26-2013, 02:30 PM | #46 |
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The thread on the barrel is also thinner on repros
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06-26-2013, 02:38 PM | #47 |
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Thanks Ed, heres a screw closeup! They are not interchangeable!
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06-26-2013, 02:42 PM | #48 | |
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Regards, Norm |
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06-26-2013, 03:23 PM | #49 |
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Norm, both of these are definatly 'non permanent'!Do we have another genuine to compare?
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06-26-2013, 04:24 PM | #50 |
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Hi Eric, According to Dr Sturgess, who has written the definitive book on the subject, the commercial Luger cleaning rod was of "one-piece non-demountable pattern with a blued steel grease drum handle, with a permanently fixed (hard-soldered) one-piece shaft/jag, made of brass". He goes on to say that the shaft was of 5.5mm diameter, and 179mm long (for 120mm barreled pistols). The final 55-58mm was turned with a coarse thread, 12 turns to the inch (Whitworth).
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06-26-2013, 04:29 PM | #51 |
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I should have known as I was was blessed with two exwives!!! I have the heavy books and found your reference! Thats what makes our passion so interesting!!! Thanks to all of you who contributed your input and devotion~~~~~Eric
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06-26-2013, 06:05 PM | #52 |
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Eric
After I got home from work I had a chance to dig through my cleaning rod collection and here are some photos of original soldered shafts. These oilers have a rust blue outer finish as the insides are in the white. Thanks Ed |
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06-26-2013, 06:21 PM | #53 |
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Wow big difference!!!! Tks
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06-26-2013, 08:13 PM | #54 |
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It would appear that the grease containers were regularly used as hammers for tapping in pins, etc.
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06-26-2013, 08:27 PM | #55 |
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Doug..yeah they just sorta scream use me like a hammer!
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06-26-2013, 08:31 PM | #56 |
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Does anyone have a clue who manufactured either?
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06-26-2013, 08:44 PM | #57 |
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Not just the steel ones.
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