Luger Trigger Tuning Part II <img BORDER="0" src='http://boards.rennlist.com/luger/pic.gif'>

Hugh · 03-18-2002, 01:01 AM

A considerable amount of creep & weight of pull can be eliminated by taking the following steps:

1. The front surface of the firing pin lug that engages the trigger bar is made at a slight forward angle . Carefully secure the firing pin in a vise which is padded with soft wood or other suitable material. Using a small file or stone, work down the forward bearing surface until it is perpendicular to longitudinal axis of the firing pin. Take your time, being very careful not to create a reverse angle on this surface.

2. With 400 or 600 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper on a small block, polish your work. Finish glass smooth with crocus cloth.

3. Secure the trigger bar in the vise with the sear up, and go over the sharp edge of the sear lightly with 400 or 600 wet-or-dry sandpaper, followed by polishing glass smooth with crocus cloth. The aim of this operation is to smooth this sharp edge enough to lessen its drag on the firing pin lug, nothing more. If youÃ¢??ve done this properly, the sear will still appear sharp, with no visible radius.

If the foregoing steps have been done carefully and correctly, the weight of pull has been reduced from its original seven or eight pounds to roughly two pounds.

http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/LT1.jpg

HÃ?Â¥kan Spuhr · 03-18-2002, 01:15 AM

Sorry Hugh, but I gotta say as I understand your desscription it more or less seems to me as a full autoconverstion.

In my opinion the firingpin and the trigger bar should be blueprinted, with other words it SHOULD have exact the same measuerments and angles as stated in the original drawings.

In mostly cases those have been flied down and then I weld it up and regrind it in a toolgrinding machine until its exactly like original.

The sear engement should instead be adjusted on either the connector, by bending it you are actually changing the searengagment and triggerpull weight.

This method was espesially used by the swiss who issued unhardend connectors and a special bending device.

Should a standard connector be bent it must first be made soft.

Instead of the problems with unhardening the connector and reharden it afterwards the triggerpull wiehgt and sear engaement can be adjusted at the trigger.

Bending the small sheetmetal piece on the top in diffenrent angels makes different searengement.

The really BAD thing abouth your version with filing down the searengement surfaces is that you are ALSO at the same time making the searengement smaller when the gun is reloading.

So instead of maybe 0.8mm searengement when its reloading you are getting down to maybe 0.1-0,2 mm and its here where the full auto normally happens.

You never get full auto when you are doing the job, but after some wear you get it.

Regards HÃ?Â¥kan Spuhr

http://www.vapensmedjan.com

03-19-2002, 12:15 AM

Hugh ----why don't you just post the entire May 1974 "Shooting times" article page 28,29 and 30 and let guys decide for themselves if it works. It will, to an extent. Have used it for years. The Article is directed at the 1970s Mausers. I even scanned the Article to Marvin---who asked for it-----You are welcome Marvin. Notice that you did not even bother to say thanks for my effort---but then I have learned to expect this.

03-18-2002, 01:01 AM	#1
Hugh RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Southeast Texas Swamp Posts: 2,460 Thanks: 2 Thanked 165 Times in 64 Posts	Luger Trigger Tuning Part II A considerable amount of creep & weight of pull can be eliminated by taking the following steps: 1. The front surface of the firing pin lug that engages the trigger bar is made at a slight forward angle . Carefully secure the firing pin in a vise which is padded with soft wood or other suitable material. Using a small file or stone, work down the forward bearing surface until it is perpendicular to longitudinal axis of the firing pin. Take your time, being very careful not to create a reverse angle on this surface. 2. With 400 or 600 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper on a small block, polish your work. Finish glass smooth with crocus cloth. 3. Secure the trigger bar in the vise with the sear up, and go over the sharp edge of the sear lightly with 400 or 600 wet-or-dry sandpaper, followed by polishing glass smooth with crocus cloth. The aim of this operation is to smooth this sharp edge enough to lessen its drag on the firing pin lug, nothing more. If youÃ¢??ve done this properly, the sear will still appear sharp, with no visible radius. If the foregoing steps have been done carefully and correctly, the weight of pull has been reduced from its original seven or eight pounds to roughly two pounds. http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/LT1.jpg

03-18-2002, 01:15 AM	#2
HÃ?Â¥kan Spuhr User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Sweden Posts: 282 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Luger Trigger Tuning Part II Sorry Hugh, but I gotta say as I understand your desscription it more or less seems to me as a full autoconverstion. In my opinion the firingpin and the trigger bar should be blueprinted, with other words it SHOULD have exact the same measuerments and angles as stated in the original drawings. In mostly cases those have been flied down and then I weld it up and regrind it in a toolgrinding machine until its exactly like original. The sear engement should instead be adjusted on either the connector, by bending it you are actually changing the searengagment and triggerpull weight. This method was espesially used by the swiss who issued unhardend connectors and a special bending device. Should a standard connector be bent it must first be made soft. Instead of the problems with unhardening the connector and reharden it afterwards the triggerpull wiehgt and sear engaement can be adjusted at the trigger. Bending the small sheetmetal piece on the top in diffenrent angels makes different searengement. The really BAD thing abouth your version with filing down the searengement surfaces is that you are ALSO at the same time making the searengement smaller when the gun is reloading. So instead of maybe 0.8mm searengement when its reloading you are getting down to maybe 0.1-0,2 mm and its here where the full auto normally happens. You never get full auto when you are doing the job, but after some wear you get it. Regards HÃ?Â¥kan Spuhr http://www.vapensmedjan.com

03-19-2002, 12:15 AM	#3
Art Buchanan Guest Posts: n/a	Re: Luger Trigger Tuning Part II Hugh ----why don't you just post the entire May 1974 "Shooting times" article page 28,29 and 30 and let guys decide for themselves if it works. It will, to an extent. Have used it for years. The Article is directed at the 1970s Mausers. I even scanned the Article to Marvin---who asked for it-----You are welcome Marvin. Notice that you did not even bother to say thanks for my effort---but then I have learned to expect this.