1914 Luger - What should I do?

sandsnow · 08-25-2008, 12:24 AM

A freind of our family served in Europe and I inherited his Luger. As you can see he had it nickel or chrome plated. It is a mis match of 3 serial numbers plus one numrich trigger plate. Plate was missing when I was given it. It functions fine, I put a couple of magazines through it. Extra Barrel also. The original is not so bad, so I may sell the extra.

Any thoughts on stripping and bluing it?
Is the magazine original?

Thanks, Larry

Steinar · 08-25-2008, 02:36 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by sandsnow

Any thoughts on stripping and bluing it?
Is the magazine original?

If you blue it up, you will still end up with a buffed and missmatched 'shooter grade' Luger. So I'm not sure it would be worth the effort.
For me it looks like the frame (wich is made by Mauser) has the original grips and the original bakelite magazine that came with it.

Mauser720 · 08-25-2008, 02:27 PM

I think everyone would agree with Steinar. It's just not worth the time and money to have it refinished. Keep it as a nice shooter grade Luger.

Mauser720 - Ron

sandsnow · 08-28-2008, 12:14 AM

Thanks for the replies. Nice to know the grips and mag are original.

Dwight Gruber · 08-28-2008, 12:26 AM

I had a nickel-plated gun for awhile, the bright reflections were really annoying during shooting. Over time I have come to the conclusion that I really don't care for Shiny Lugers.

So, this may be an opportune place to ask a question which has been in the back of my mind: is there a chemical or metallurgical process which can be applied to darken/blacken nickel and chrome finishes?

--Dwight

Edward Tinker · 08-28-2008, 08:49 AM

There are several processes that can 'coat" chrome or nickle, I would guess the problem you run into is making the working parts coated again and that much thicker for functioning.

the bright reflections never bothered me, but in Portland with all the rain, direct sunlight may be a surprise and bothersome

ed

John Sabato · 08-28-2008, 09:30 AM

The guys have said it all. It would not be economically feasible to remove and refinish the gun in blue. It would surely cost more than the gun is worth.

My suggestions:

Keep the gun as a shooter just as it is in memory of your kind friend who left it to you. The nickle will perform it's job by keeping the gun more rust resistant.

You can carefully and judiciously remove the nickle plating from the rear sight's rear face with a very fine file. Then use a good cold-blue to blacken the rear face of the rear sight so it will be more easily seen when shooting.

Rather than removing the serations on the rear of the front sight, I would purchase a replacement front sight in blue to make the front sight more shooter friendly. You can sell the extra barrel if you like since if the original barrel is in good shape, it will last you a lifetime if you keep it clean...

Welcome to the Lugerforum.

Dwight Gruber · 08-28-2008, 11:46 AM

John,

Just to follow up on the particular detail, the worst reflection is from the flat surface of the rear toggle which extends below the sight.

Ed,

"Coating" chrome or nickel--which is why I was wondering about a process which actually changes the physical properties of the bright surface.

And in Oregon, one ends up shooting indoors a lot...

--Dwight

lugerholsterrepair · 08-28-2008, 01:22 PM

Dwight..A short blast of sandblasting should dull the reflection. Or something less permanent, .99 cents worth of flat black paint.

Jerry Burney

Dwight Gruber · 08-29-2008, 01:04 PM

Jerry,

The paint is a good idea, someone else suggested "smudging" it with a dirty flame. I tried black electrical tape, that worked well enough.

I suppose that what I am getting at, is trying to find a way to "re-blacken" the gun without a strip-and-reblue.

--Dwight

Aaron · 08-29-2008, 07:51 PM

Will "cold blue" work on nickel or chrome plating?

sandsnow · 08-29-2008, 08:16 PM

I used to use sight black by Birchwood Casey on my rifle sights for matches. It's just a little can of flat black paint.

Anyway I understand the consensus about economically unfeasible, but what are we talking about in round numbers, thanks.

Steinar · 08-30-2008, 04:24 AM

http://forum.lugerforum.com/lfupload/25072007098001.jpg
This picture shows my grandfathers simple solution to the same problem, he used a varnish we call 'Benga lakk' over here, commonly used on stoves. Not pretty, but the rifle was a tool for him and used accordingly. Low in value, but priceless for me

Went Blakely · 09-01-2008, 12:45 PM

That actually looks pretty good, keep it as a nice shooter grade. Looks nice and dark. Apparently there are 'black chrome' finishes so to speak Dwight, but as hinted at, they go on too thick. One of my buddies is having the same dilemma trying to figure a way to coat an already nickeled specimen, without the hassle of a strip. I guess at the end of the day however, it is 'do it once and right, or not at all'. Whatever cheap easy way may be found, it will certainly look that way i suppose. A light buff/abrasion to the surface should be good enough for a coat of paint as Jerry suggested, or that' Gunkote' coating or whatever it is called, or even a dark automotive primer can have a 'not too bad at all' look to it

John Sabato · 09-01-2008, 01:10 PM

A quailty removal of plating and metal preparation for rebluing and finally a quality reblue will probably cost you in the neighborhood of $600-1000 depending on who does the work. You can have "bubba" do it for less, but you won't be happy with the results.

jamese · 09-02-2008, 06:11 AM

There is a chemical Jewelers use to blacken or darken nickel itÃ¢??s called
Ã¢??Nickel/Iron BlackÃ¢?Â Griffith makes it. There out of NJ I think

Talk to your local jeweler, he should have some or know where to order it

If you can get any help locally, send me an e-mail and I can darken the part for you

Jim

alanint · 09-02-2008, 02:59 PM

An excellent alternative is to go to Brownells and order Gun-Kote type over cured paints. You de grease and heat the parts, spray them and then oven cure them for a short time. THis makes an excellent, durable and solvent resistent finish.
I have done dozens of assault type weapons as well as some military pieces that were corroded or pitted with excellent results.
Order flat or semi gloss black for a rerally nice finish

Went Blakely · 09-03-2008, 12:39 AM

Hey Dwight here's a link including the product Jim mentioned. I'm going to try some out for sure!
http://www.hoj.com.au/images/catalog...92b71ae6c0.jpg
http://www.hoj.com.au/images/catalog...793e5b18bf.jpg

sandsnow · 09-05-2008, 12:06 AM

John
Thanks. Yeah I see why you say leave it.

Went,
Thanks for the link to that finishing stuff. I could try it on that extra barrell first.

08-25-2008, 12:24 AM	#1
sandsnow New User Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 4 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	1914 Luger - What should I do? A freind of our family served in Europe and I inherited his Luger. As you can see he had it nickel or chrome plated. It is a mis match of 3 serial numbers plus one numrich trigger plate. Plate was missing when I was given it. It functions fine, I put a couple of magazines through it. Extra Barrel also. The original is not so bad, so I may sell the extra. Any thoughts on stripping and bluing it? Is the magazine original? Thanks, Larry

08-25-2008, 02:27 PM	#3
Mauser720 User Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Kansas Posts: 535 Thanks: 18 Thanked 49 Times in 33 Posts	I think everyone would agree with Steinar. It's just not worth the time and money to have it refinished. Keep it as a nice shooter grade Luger. Mauser720 - Ron __________________ Mauser720 - Ron "Those who do not know history are doomed to repeat it."

08-28-2008, 09:30 AM	#7
John Sabato Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: The Capital of the Free World Posts: 10,150 Thanks: 3,003 Thanked 2,304 Times in 1,096 Posts	The guys have said it all. It would not be economically feasible to remove and refinish the gun in blue. It would surely cost more than the gun is worth. My suggestions: Keep the gun as a shooter just as it is in memory of your kind friend who left it to you. The nickle will perform it's job by keeping the gun more rust resistant. You can carefully and judiciously remove the nickle plating from the rear sight's rear face with a very fine file. Then use a good cold-blue to blacken the rear face of the rear sight so it will be more easily seen when shooting. Rather than removing the serations on the rear of the front sight, I would purchase a replacement front sight in blue to make the front sight more shooter friendly. You can sell the extra barrel if you like since if the original barrel is in good shape, it will last you a lifetime if you keep it clean... Welcome to the Lugerforum. __________________ regards, -John S "...We hold these truths to be self-evident that ALL men are created EQUAL *and are endowed by their Creator* with certain UNALIENABLE* rights, and among these are life, LIBERTY, and the pursuit of happiness..."*

08-28-2008, 01:22 PM	#9
lugerholsterrepair Moderator Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Arizona/Colorado Posts: 7,761 Thanks: 4,863 Thanked 3,101 Times in 1,427 Posts	Dwight..A short blast of sandblasting should dull the reflection. Or something less permanent, .99 cents worth of flat black paint. Jerry Burney __________________ Jerry Burney 11491 S. Guadalupe Drive Yuma AZ 85367-6182 lugerholsterrepair@earthlink.net 928 342-7583 (CO & AZ) Year Round 719 207-3331 (cell) "For those who Fight For It, Life has a flavor the protected will never know."

08-30-2008, 04:24 AM	#13
Steinar User Join Date: May 2004 Posts: 1,538 Thanks: 18 Thanked 36 Times in 21 Posts	http://forum.lugerforum.com/lfupload/25072007098001.jpg This picture shows my grandfathers simple solution to the same problem, he used a varnish we call 'Benga lakk' over here, commonly used on stoves. Not pretty, but the rifle was a tool for him and used accordingly. Low in value, but priceless for me __________________ Previously known as Morgan Kane

08-28-2008, 12:14 AM	#4
sandsnow New User Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 4 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Thanks for the replies. Nice to know the grips and mag are original.

08-28-2008, 12:26 AM	#5
Dwight Gruber User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 3,890 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1,282 Times in 424 Posts	I had a nickel-plated gun for awhile, the bright reflections were really annoying during shooting. Over time I have come to the conclusion that I really don't care for Shiny Lugers. So, this may be an opportune place to ask a question which has been in the back of my mind: is there a chemical or metallurgical process which can be applied to darken/blacken nickel and chrome finishes? --Dwight

08-28-2008, 08:49 AM	#6
Edward Tinker Super Moderator Eternal Lifer LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: North of Spokane, WA Posts: 15,915 Thanks: 1,989 Thanked 4,506 Times in 2,080 Posts	There are several processes that can 'coat" chrome or nickle, I would guess the problem you run into is making the working parts coated again and that much thicker for functioning. the bright reflections never bothered me, but in Portland with all the rain, direct sunlight may be a surprise and bothersome ed

08-28-2008, 11:46 AM	#8
Dwight Gruber User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 3,890 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1,282 Times in 424 Posts	John, Just to follow up on the particular detail, the worst reflection is from the flat surface of the rear toggle which extends below the sight. Ed, "Coating" chrome or nickel--which is why I was wondering about a process which actually changes the physical properties of the bright surface. And in Oregon, one ends up shooting indoors a lot... --Dwight

08-29-2008, 01:04 PM	#10
Dwight Gruber User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 3,890 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1,282 Times in 424 Posts	Jerry, The paint is a good idea, someone else suggested "smudging" it with a dirty flame. I tried black electrical tape, that worked well enough. I suppose that what I am getting at, is trying to find a way to "re-blacken" the gun without a strip-and-reblue. --Dwight

08-29-2008, 07:51 PM	#11
Aaron Banned Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Vista, CA Posts: 1,008 Thanks: 0 Thanked 9 Times in 9 Posts	Will "cold blue" work on nickel or chrome plating?

08-29-2008, 08:16 PM	#12
sandsnow New User Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 4 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	I used to use sight black by Birchwood Casey on my rifle sights for matches. It's just a little can of flat black paint. Anyway I understand the consensus about economically unfeasible, but what are we talking about in round numbers, thanks.

09-01-2008, 12:45 PM	#14
Went Blakely User Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Australia Posts: 231 Thanks: 4 Thanked 8 Times in 6 Posts	That actually looks pretty good, keep it as a nice shooter grade. Looks nice and dark. Apparently there are 'black chrome' finishes so to speak Dwight, but as hinted at, they go on too thick. One of my buddies is having the same dilemma trying to figure a way to coat an already nickeled specimen, without the hassle of a strip. I guess at the end of the day however, it is 'do it once and right, or not at all'. Whatever cheap easy way may be found, it will certainly look that way i suppose. A light buff/abrasion to the surface should be good enough for a coat of paint as Jerry suggested, or that' Gunkote' coating or whatever it is called, or even a dark automotive primer can have a 'not too bad at all' look to it __________________ Went Blakely

09-01-2008, 01:10 PM	#15
John Sabato Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: The Capital of the Free World Posts: 10,150 Thanks: 3,003 Thanked 2,304 Times in 1,096 Posts	A quailty removal of plating and metal preparation for rebluing and finally a quality reblue will probably cost you in the neighborhood of $600-1000 depending on who does the work. You can have "bubba" do it for less, but you won't be happy with the results. __________________ regards, -John S "...We hold these truths to be self-evident that ALL men are created EQUAL *and are endowed by their Creator* with certain UNALIENABLE* rights, and among these are life, LIBERTY, and the pursuit of happiness..."*

09-02-2008, 06:11 AM	#16
jamese User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: South Florida Posts: 789 Thanks: 0 Thanked 84 Times in 34 Posts	There is a chemical Jewelers use to blacken or darken nickel itÃ¢??s called Ã¢??Nickel/Iron BlackÃ¢?Â Griffith makes it. There out of NJ I think Talk to your local jeweler, he should have some or know where to order it If you can get any help locally, send me an e-mail and I can darken the part for you Jim __________________ The "truth" is a matter of Perception

09-02-2008, 02:59 PM	#17
alanint User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Marco Island, Florida Posts: 4,867 Thanks: 1,685 Thanked 1,916 Times in 1,192 Posts	An excellent alternative is to go to Brownells and order Gun-Kote type over cured paints. You de grease and heat the parts, spray them and then oven cure them for a short time. THis makes an excellent, durable and solvent resistent finish. I have done dozens of assault type weapons as well as some military pieces that were corroded or pitted with excellent results. Order flat or semi gloss black for a rerally nice finish

09-03-2008, 12:39 AM	#18
Went Blakely User Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Australia Posts: 231 Thanks: 4 Thanked 8 Times in 6 Posts	Hey Dwight here's a link including the product Jim mentioned. I'm going to try some out for sure! http://www.hoj.com.au/images/catalog...92b71ae6c0.jpg http://www.hoj.com.au/images/catalog...793e5b18bf.jpg __________________ Went Blakely

09-05-2008, 12:06 AM	#19
sandsnow New User Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 4 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	John Thanks. Yeah I see why you say leave it. Went, Thanks for the link to that finishing stuff. I could try it on that extra barrell first.