Newbie With First Luger:

[DonVoigt]

If you or someone else had the "S" link out, they may have put it back in "upside down".
It can be done and results in pretty funky assembly/dis-assembly; and it doesn't work right.

If you show a picture with the S link laying to the rear with the upper upside down, we can see if
it is correct or not.

[gvf]

Originally Posted by DonVoigt

If you or someone else had the "S" link out, they may have put it back in "upside down".
It can be done and results in pretty funky assembly/dis-assembly; and it doesn't work right.

If you show a picture with the S link laying to the rear with the upper upside down, we can see if
it is correct or not.

Sorry I can't get you a photo just yet, waiting for time to learn the digital camera I have that's new. Soon.

---------

Found a way: bad photo but I hope OK for our purpose:

[DonVoigt]

gvf,
took one of mine apart for comparison, Your link looks like it is "stretched" a little, i.e. the engagement bosses are a little farther away from the end of the receiver; or another way to look at it, the arm pointed up in your picture should be at a more acute angle toward the receiver.

This would cause your assembly condition, IMO.

i believe you must buy a new S link and install it.

When you figure out your camera, a picture with a ruler behind and showing the distance from where the rear of the rails end to the link bosses would help confirm.

I hope this makes sense and helps.

[gvf]

Yes I do understand. Thanks very much.

I'll post another pix later today with more of the link visible as well getting better photos soon. That awful photo makes it look more stretched out than it looks in other positions where you can see more

In the meantime if you want, go to Google and search for "Luger P.08 Coupling Link" (without the quote marks). You'll see when the page comes up the first choice says "Images for luger p.08 coupling link". Click on it and a whole page of photos comes up. I can't get the link to come up here or I'd provide it. Some of coupling links shown look like their angles are not very acute. Click on any you want to check more to make sure it's a "Luger Coupling Link" . Sometimes other parts are shown.

Later,
gvf
(Jerry)

Originally Posted by DonVoigt

gvf,
took one of mine apart for comparison, Your link looks like it is "stretched" a little, i.e. the engagement bosses are a little farther away from the end of the receiver; or another way to look at it, the arm pointed up in your picture should be at a more acute angle toward the receiver.

This would cause your assembly condition, IMO.

i believe you must buy a new S link and install it.

When you figure out your camera, a picture with a ruler behind and showing the distance from where the rear of the rails end to the link bosses would help confirm.

I hope this makes sense and helps.

[gvf]

Also, I mentioned before that when my slide had no connection to the Main-Spring, it was fixed when I drew the Coupling Link in between and through the two prongs of the Recoil Spring Lever with my finger, because the Coupling Link wasn't free enough to move through on on its own when the slide moved the last little bit back on the rails.

Just wanted to make sure that was right: normally the Coupling Link moves between the Recoil Spring Lever's prongs as the slide moves the last bit backwards on the rails. That make sense?

Thanks
gvf
(Jerry)

Originally Posted by DonVoigt

gvf,
took one of mine apart for comparison, Your link looks like it is "stretched" a little, i.e. the engagement bosses are a little farther away from the end of the receiver; or another way to look at it, the arm pointed up in your picture should be at a more acute angle toward the receiver.

This would cause your assembly condition, IMO.

i believe you must buy a new S link and install it.

When you figure out your camera, a picture with a ruler behind and showing the distance from where the rear of the rails end to the link bosses would help confirm.

I hope this makes sense and helps.

[Lugerdoc]

Another thing to watch for: I occasionally run into is the installation of a M1900 connecting link (shorter than the P08) in a P08. The pistol will reassamble, but the toggle will not come back far enough to allow a round to be picked up from the mag. TH

[gvf]

Originally Posted by Lugerdoc

Another thing to watch for: I occasionally run into is the installation of a M1900 connecting link (shorter than the P08) in a P08. The pistol will reassamble, but the toggle will not come back far enough to allow a round to be picked up from the mag. TH

hmmmmm.........

[DonVoigt]

Jerry,
sorry but those last two pictures are totally useless.

I still think it is bent.

[gvf]

Originally Posted by DonVoigt

Jerry,
sorry but those last two pictures are totally useless.

I still think it is bent.

Thanks.

best I can do with laptop camera.

This is from Google images of P.08 Coupling Links:



I held my own up to the photo, both Coupling Links were exactly the same, same bends. You may be right about being bent post-production but I don't think so based on this and just the look of mine when you see it in actuality. Those other photos make it look straighter than it is in reality.

Until I can get better photos have to leave at that.

Thanks for all your help!
Jerry

[DonVoigt]

That is a good enough picture, but do put in the measurement scale and move the aim point to the center of the S link, we are still seeing it from and angle and not straight on.

[gvf]

Originally Posted by DonVoigt

That is a good enough picture, but do put in the measurement scale and move the aim point to the center of the S link, we are still seeing it from and angle and not straight on.

This is not my gun or photo of it. This is the photo on Google Images of another Luger which I compared with the same part in my own Luger. They matched perfectly, including the Coupling Links.

Sorry for the confusion.

Best
Jerry

[gvf]

An instruction from DavidJayUnden hit the nail on the head for me:

"Put the slide on with the gun up-side-down with the hooks to the rear, then right it once the hook is about far enough back, so that it drops in place. Then once hooked place the muzzle down on a soft tabletop, press down on the grip frame and the top will slightly move back under pressure. Then clip the side plate into place and raise the lever to lock it in.
dju"

See, the problem was no longer the Coupling Link, that was either dropping into place or with grips the off I easily moved it down with my finger. Therefore the slide was now connected to the Main-Spring. The only possible problem is what was mentioned about my link being possibly misshapend. I think it's OK and will find out for sure when I shoot it.

The problem was the barrel seemed frozen, and without being able to move it backward a tad, I couldn't get the side plate on or move the Take-Down Bolt back to a horizontal position. Others must be able to do that without placing the muzzle down. My hands are weak though and I have bad arthritis in the thumb/wrist joints of both hands. (Partly from incorrect hand placement on my guns. Another time for that)

So after only a week and the help of multiple people my Luger is back together!

So thank you all so much. I'm very appreciative of you all going out of your way to help the new kid in school. Back to you after I shoot it and after that with good photos (I hope).

Jerry ("gvf")

[ithacaartist]

Another method I use is to insert an empty mag once the upper is slid on and the hook properly engaged. Pull back on the toggle knobs and it will lock back with the hold-open, allowing installation of the side plate and subsequent rotation of the locking bolt. This eliminates the juggling act required to do these operations with one hand while maintaining all that pressure with the other--a setup which is inherently unstable and may slip if you're not careful. Afterwards, remove the mag, cycle the action, de-c0ck, and you're good.

[gvf]

Originally Posted by ithacaartist

Another method I use is to insert an empty mag once the upper is slid on and the hook properly engaged. Pull back on the toggle knobs and it will lock back with the hold-open, allowing installation of the side plate and subsequent rotation of the locking bolt. This eliminates the juggling act required to do these operations with one hand while maintaining all that pressure with the other--a setup which is inherently unstable and may slip if you're not careful. Afterwards, remove the mag, cycle the action, de-c0ck, and you're good.

Hey thanks a lot, sounds a lot easier than the muzzle on table.

(How do you de-**** these by the way?)

I'll try your suggestion next time

Thanks so much,
Jerry
("gvf")

[ithacaartist]

Originally Posted by gvf

Hey thanks a lot, sounds a lot easier than the muzzle on table.

(How do you de-**** these by the way?)

I'll try your suggestion next time

Thanks so much,
Jerry
("gvf")

When the action is closed, the striker is always set, unless it has been "de-roostered". Raise the toggle knobs and pull back until you feel resistance, the bolt should be withdrawn about 3/8" at that point. Pull just slightly into this resistance and press and hold the trigger while then allowing the block to go back home. If you've done it right, you won't hear a click when the trigger is pulled thereafter.

[gvf]

Originally Posted by ithacaartist

Another method I use is to insert an empty mag once the upper is slid on and the hook properly engaged. Pull back on the toggle knobs and it will lock back with the hold-open, allowing installation of the side plate and subsequent rotation of the locking bolt. This eliminates the juggling act required to do these operations with one hand while maintaining all that pressure with the other--a setup which is inherently unstable and may slip if you're not careful. Afterwards, remove the mag, cycle the action, de-c0ck, and you're good.

You know I tried that, but after inserting the mag and pulling all the way back until I get lock-back, that still doesn't allow me to put the side-plate back on or move the Take-Down Bolt up. And the barrel/top of the gun won't budge. Any ideas? Your way sounds much easier than the other that I'd like to get it, but I must be doing something wrong.

Thanks

[gvf]

I got to the range really late, so just had enough time to test the gun with a few rounds, 6 I think.

Short test but everything seemed OK and I like shooting it. The minute sights made the shots very accurate as I imagine point-shooting would be. I used 115gr ammo and the recoil was hardly noticeable.

I look forward to shooting more!

Best to all,
Jerry ("gvf")

[gvf]

I ran across an interesting article with the "S" "T" and "U" suffixed serial numbers in it as well as others. You may have read it.

In the bottom two photos, the right one has the same mark I believe mine has - twice but minus the numbers shown in the article under the eagle mark. One is on the rear area of the barrel and one very faint on the body of the gun just behind the barrel. They are on the right side of the gun.

"Eagle over WaA66 Waffenamt proof"

It's a good summary article, and goes through the different reasons usually given for the lack of the manufacture's name on the guns. I believe they all came up on this Tread.

Best
Jerry
"gvf"

[DonVoigt]

gvf,
the right side chamber proofs on P 08s in the s,t,u range are notoriously pooly struck.
It is not surprising that you can't see or read the "66" parts.
This 1929 DWM is number 3934 u.

[SteveM]

Example of clearer stamps