Luger Target Trigger Modification

Thanks, I've got an Anshutz .22 (Mod 1451?) with an adjustment exactly like what you did. I had to loosen it back up because it was messing me up with my other guns. Had an AK once that you could nearly pass out from lack of oxygen trying to shoot. Had a trigger pull from here to Texas.


Roadkill

Very nice, but I see two problems.


1. You have my grips on it,


2. Someone stepped on the barrel and flattened it!


Very sweet Hugh, did you do the work?


Ed

The method Hugh describes and trigger photos come from a May 1974 "Shooting Times" article pages 28,29 and 30 by Mike Gorman. The piece was directed at work on a 1970s Mauser. The methods work fine on other Lugers. I have refered to the article and reworked fireing pins for a number of years with good success. Polishing bearing surfaces as described in the article also helps a bit. The small screws in trig help. My experience has been--that adjusting the slack take up screw is a bit tricky. Remove too much slack and sear does not catch when fired even though it may work fine when action is worked by hand. Perhaps someone [maybe me] would scan the article and forward to seriously intersted guys.

[John Sabato]

[Marvin]

Art,


I wonder what it would take to be able to repring the article on the Forum? I sure wold like to read that one myself.


Marvin

[BILL]

Thanks Hugh, I have several .22 target pistols that have very similar stops. This might be an excellent mod for that 'spare' trigger, just in case you have a matched pistol that you want to keep matching. If you look around at gunshows there are usually some parts guys who aren't trying to retire by selling Luger parts. eBay is actually bad for spare parts (often closing out at the price of a whole pistol). Just my opinion..your mileage may vary.

[Dan Clemons]

Hi Hugh:


Thanks for bringing this subject up!! How come my shooters have a long trigger pull and my mint Lugers that I don't shoot have a short pull? There seems to be no consistancy.


Dan C.

[Hugh]

Improve the trigger pull on your shooter Luger by installing trigger stop and slack adjusting screws.


The top adjustment, which is a #2-56 Allen set screw, is designed to take up the small but annoying amount of slack that is present in the linkup between the trigger and the trigger bar. Although it will do so, this screw is NOT designed to adjust sear engagement. If sear engagement is altered by turning this screw in too far, the trigger bar plunger will not reengage the trigger bar when the trigger is released, which will put the gun out of action. The lower #4-40 Allen screw functions as a standard trigger-stop.


By installing these adjustment screws, the total length of trigger travel can be cut from over 1/8" to a hair over 1/16", with practically zero backlash. Once you have the screws set properly, a small drop of Locktite on each will insure less frequent adjustment.


The first of the attached pictures show the adjustment screws mounted in a 1970's era Mauser Luger trigger. The next two pictures show the trigger stop screw mounted in a standard Luger trigger.


In future installments, I will describe how to smooth and lighten your Luger's trigger SAFELY to obtain a smooth 2# trigger pull.

[Blastattack]

Any chance we can ressurect this page? I'm sure there is valuable information here, but all the illustrations of it are MIA (for me at least)

I should add that i am particularly interested in that 2 pound trigger pull.

[sheepherder]

I also would be interested in the pics/article.

[mrerick]

If you Email me the jpegs, I can create a compressed PDF file.

Marc

[Ron Wood]

I suppose after 28 years no one will get their knickers in a wad if I post .jpg images of the Shooting Times article on trigger adjustment. They are a bit fuzzy but I think they are OK for folks that have enough gunsmithing skills. If you can't grasp what the procedure is, you probably shouldn't be messing with the gun in the first place. I assume absolutely no liability for any modifications to any Luger using this aricle...it is provided for information purposes only and should not be attempted by anyone other than a qualified and licensed gunsmith.

[Vlim]

Good article.

My 1937 S/42 had a very, very strong trigger spring in it, which forced me to build up so much pressure that I would twist the gun slightly sideways and downwards. Quite annoying. A simple fix was the installation of a softer (Swiss 06/29) trigger spring. Made a world of difference.

So before bringing out the drills, taps and screws, try the simple approach first

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by Ron Wood

I suppose after 28 years no one will get their knickers in a wad if I post .jpg images of the Shooting Times article...

Way to go, Ron! Take a walk on the wild side...

*************************************************************

In that article's first page, the upper pic of a Luger barrel...What model/make Luger is that??? Is that the Mauser (with a 6" barrel) that the author was referring to???

[Ron Wood]

I should have posted that after I took a nap...it has been 38 years since the article was published.

[Blastattack]

Excellent! Thank you! Any chance you can Re-post this article in a fresh thread and have it stickied? That would be invaluable for all current and future members.

[Michael Zeleny]

Making a Luger trigger mimic that of an M1911 is a fool's errand. In effect, this method eliminates the first stage of the trigger action that was designed and built in a two stage pattern. It is an unsafe procedure that cannot be recommended under any circumstances.

[Blastattack]

Originally Posted by Michael Zeleny

Making a Luger trigger mimic that of an M1911 is a fool's errand. In effect, this method eliminates the first stage of the trigger action that was designed and built in a two stage pattern. It is an unsafe procedure that cannot be recommended under any circumstances.

I challenge that statement. What evidence do you have to support any of that?

I would hardly qualify the Luger as having a "two stage" trigger. A proper two stage trigger divides the total pull between the two stages, requiring a greater and longer pull in the first stage, and requiring a shorter but much lighter (not to mention crisp) pull in the second. The Luger's pull consists of taking the slack out f the mechanism, which takes a couple ounces, and then the full 7-8lbs in the last bit of movement. I also fail to see how such modifications are unsafe when done properly. If the instructions are followed to a T and the user does not over adjust the trigger to break on a hair, the pistol should work perfectly fine and be 100% safe. I'm sure Herbert Werle does a very similar procedure to this, and he seems to enjoy a very good reputation, both here and abroad.

[Michael Zeleny]

Originally Posted by Blastattack

I challenge that statement. What evidence do you have to support any of that?

I would hardly qualify the Luger as having a "two stage" trigger. A proper two stage trigger divides the total pull between the two stages, requiring a greater and longer pull in the first stage, and requiring a shorter but much lighter (not to mention crisp) pull in the second. The Luger's pull consists of taking the slack out f the mechanism, which takes a couple ounces, and then the full 7-8lbs in the last bit of movement. I also fail to see how such modifications are unsafe when done properly. If the instructions are followed to a T and the user does not over adjust the trigger to break on a hair, the pistol should work perfectly fine and be 100% safe. I'm sure Herbert Werle does a very similar procedure to this, and he seems to enjoy a very good reputation, both here and abroad.

Please Google "Druckpunkt Parabellum".

[Blastattack]

Originally Posted by Michael Zeleny

Please Google "Druckpunkt Parabellum".

I'm not sure I understand. Clearly the Swiss devised a method to improve the trigger pull of their Lugers. I cannot and will not argue the effectiveness and relative merits of their modification. However, that does not explain why the method described in the article is inherently wrong or dangerous. It simply seems like another way to skin a cat. If done properly, with great care and attention, as well as the proper tools, I cannot see how it would be any less effective than what the Swiss devised.