Cleanest Factory 115grain 9mm Ammo - Page 2

envino · 05-20-2014, 01:32 PM

Ron, thanks for the clarification regarding the steel wool.

I guess my question is how to tell the difference between the Fe2O3 form of Iron Oxide (which Marc reported is expected in these firearms and not to try and remove with iron wool) and active rust (which should be addressed with steel wool).

Thanks,

Jeff

mrerick · 05-20-2014, 04:22 PM

The red oxide that you can see deep in the finish almost takes a magnifying glass and intense light to see in most cases.

When it aggregates and you can see red spots, particularly with the unaided eye, it may be in the process of starting pitting.

Marc

rhuff · 05-20-2014, 05:14 PM

I am of the group that uses a grease to the hard friction areas(toggle train to receiver, etc.) and a good oil to the lighter friction areas. I run my Lugers well lubricated.

I use TW25b for the frame/toggle areas(grease), and Outers or other good gun oils for the areas needing a lighter lubrication.

I have been using Hoppe's #9 for more years than I can remember. I have tried others, but never felt that they were any better than Hoppe's, and they lacked the fragrance!!

I used to love the smell of a paper shotgun shell that had just been fired. I believe that they were Monarch Brand.....but maybe not.

Ben M. · 05-20-2014, 09:44 PM

only areas of active rust

envino · 05-20-2014, 10:28 PM

Hey guys, I've taken a couple photos of my Luger's trigger sideplate as an example of some spotting I notice on various areas of the sidearm.

I've attached two photos of the sideplate: one standard and one macro of the upper right corner of the sideplate.

Is this active rust? If so, how should I address the rust correctly: using the 0000 steel wool and what other measures?

How will I know when I've sufficiently removed the rust?

Thanks for any insight!

Jeff

envino · 05-20-2014, 10:33 PM

rhuff,

Thanks for the suggestion regarding the grease. It sounds like TW25b is a great lubricant and protectant, so I've got it on my buy/use list, right next to Hoppe's #9

envino · 05-20-2014, 10:51 PM

cdmech,

Great! I was actually searching for some synthetic sperm oil yesterday for the heck of it.

Thanks for the link!

Jeff

05-20-2014, 01:32 PM	#1
envino User Join Date: May 2014 Location: Michigan Posts: 25 Thanks: 36 Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts	Ron, thanks for the clarification regarding the steel wool. I guess my question is how to tell the difference between the Fe2O3 form of Iron Oxide (which Marc reported is expected in these firearms and not to try and remove with iron wool) and active rust (which should be addressed with steel wool). Thanks, Jeff __________________ Lovin' the Luger!

05-20-2014, 04:22 PM	#2
mrerick Super Moderator - Patron LugerForum Life Patron Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Eastern North Carolina, USA Posts: 3,925 Thanks: 1,377 Thanked 3,139 Times in 1,520 Posts	The red oxide that you can see deep in the finish almost takes a magnifying glass and intense light to see in most cases. When it aggregates and you can see red spots, particularly with the unaided eye, it may be in the process of starting pitting. Marc __________________ Igitur si vis pacem, para bellum - - Therefore if you want peace, prepare for war.

05-20-2014, 10:33 PM	#6
envino User Join Date: May 2014 Location: Michigan Posts: 25 Thanks: 36 Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts	rhuff, Thanks for the suggestion regarding the grease. It sounds like TW25b is a great lubricant and protectant, so I've got it on my buy/use list, right next to Hoppe's #9 __________________ Lovin' the Luger!

05-20-2014, 10:51 PM	#7
envino User Join Date: May 2014 Location: Michigan Posts: 25 Thanks: 36 Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts	cdmech, Great! I was actually searching for some synthetic sperm oil yesterday for the heck of it. Thanks for the link! Jeff __________________ Lovin' the Luger!

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05-20-2014, 05:14 PM	#3
rhuff Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Az. Posts: 2,315 Thanks: 2,748 Thanked 998 Times in 733 Posts	I am of the group that uses a grease to the hard friction areas(toggle train to receiver, etc.) and a good oil to the lighter friction areas. I run my Lugers well lubricated. I use TW25b for the frame/toggle areas(grease), and Outers or other good gun oils for the areas needing a lighter lubrication. I have been using Hoppe's #9 for more years than I can remember. I have tried others, but never felt that they were any better than Hoppe's, and they lacked the fragrance!! I used to love the smell of a paper shotgun shell that had just been fired. I believe that they were Monarch Brand.....but maybe not.

05-20-2014, 09:44 PM	#4
Ben M. User Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Retired to Naples, FL. Posts: 498 Thanks: 112 Thanked 156 Times in 98 Posts	only areas of active rust