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Unread 11-05-2002, 01:49 PM   #1
Johnny Peppers
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Join Date: Jun 2002
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It is normally easier to apply the light test to the rust blued Lugers as these will be anywhere from 65 to 100 years old. The rust blue was just what the name implies; that the blueing came about as the result of first being rusted with a browning solution and then having the rust scratched or carded off with either a wire wheel of steel wool pads. This was done as many times as was needed to achieve the desired color.
Virtually all Lugers that are 65 to 100 years old will show some wear. Look at the areas that normally get the most wear such as the frame rails, the sideplate, and the bottom of the grip frame around the magazine opening. It is not unusual for Lugers to have thin wear lines on the sides of the barrels which does not show under normal room light, but stand out under intense light. With the Mini-Maglite, or any other light with a high intensity bult, these areas should show signs of browning/oxidation around the worn areas. Even a 98% original finish pistol will show wear under the intense light that is not noticeable under normal room light. If a Luger that was originally rust blued does not show any oxidation, beware of a new rust blued finish. The easiest reblue to spot is the Luger that was originally rust blued that has been reblued in a hot salt blue tank. The natural etching of the steel by the rust blue process gives the rust blue a soft appearance which the hot salt blue lacks.
Some of the Mauser commercial pistols will be found with mixed rust blue and salt blued parts. This is normally easy to spot by the difference in appearance of the two blueing methods. Mauser also used left over parts, mainly barrels, from a run of contract pistols on later pistols, and there may be a difference in the color of the blue under the intense light.
There is no easy way to explain how to spot the telltale signs of a reblue, but just as with anything else you learn about Lugers, looking at a lot of them will help.
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