Extractor issue? mainspring issue both?

Bryon · 02-03-2003, 10:08 PM

Ok, this may be a dumb question but I know there are experts out there that know the answer. New to me 41 BYF. Have not fired the pistol but it's acting different from my 1916 DWM so I thought I would ask.

If you pull the toggle back to the first pivot point slowly the toggle stops and will not move forward unless I push it. Same holds true if I lower it slowly from a full cocked position.

This is weird as my DWM slaps forward as soon as I let go from the same half cocked position. So I am wondering, weak mainspring OR, extractor.

I stripped both pistols and found the BYF has much more friction when operating the toggle (nom mag in pistol) than the DWM. I also noticed the extractor seems to stick out more on the inside of the receiver or barrel extention. I used calipers to measure it and compared it to the DWM.

the gap from the tip of the extractor to the opposite side of the receiver(inside)is as follows:

DWM= .349
ByF= .367

After further inspection I am thinking the extractor is putting too much tension on the bolt and the main spring is too weak?

Anyone what to take a shot at this one?

Thanks

Frank · 02-04-2003, 04:57 AM

Bryon, I think you may mean Ejector, rather than Extractor. In any event, it could be a main spring, but . . . I would look at the alignment of the two sides of the receiver to make sure they are aligned.

Take the rear toggle pin out, remove the toggle and bolt assembly, then put the rear toggle pin back in, without the toggle. It should slide right in, if the receiver is not warped. If it doesn't that may be the problem.

Good Luck!!

Bryon · 02-04-2003, 06:55 AM

Yes, I was referring to the ejector, my mistake. I also did the test of taking the toggle out and replacing the rear pin, it went in fine. So too much tension the bolt from the Ejector and weak spring = my problem? Can the ejector be torqued back so there is less tension on the bolt, replaced, or grinding the end, or leave it alone?

Is removing the ejector a gunsmith job?

thanks.

Lugerdoc · 02-04-2003, 07:14 AM

Byron, You are probably correct about the increase friction caused by the ejector on your Mauser PO8. There may also be a greater overlap of your firing pin and sear (trigger bar) on this model, which causes the toggle to stop when lowered slowly. This is more an individual pistol characteristic, than one of different manufacturors. I personally would not worry about it, so long as the pistol cocks and the toggle closes fully, when released from its maximum rearward position. Tom H.

Dwight Gruber · 02-04-2003, 05:01 PM

Byron,

The ejector is an extremely easy part to remove. That being said, I highly recommend against removing it (unless it is actually broken and you are replacing it) or modifying it in any way. It is a piece of spring steel with some bends and appendages, and can easily break. A recent survey has shown that it is the most commonly broken part, resulting from shooting.

I think that Lugerdoc is on the money with his assessment. Also I have a Luger or two which do the same thing, the breech closes fully when released from maximum recoil, and there seems to be no problem in operating the pistol.

So, don't worry, and enjoy it.

--Dwight

Bryon · 02-04-2003, 08:44 PM

Ok I will leave it alone. Now where can I get some black replacement grips? I do not what to keep the original grips on the pistol. I would prefer the plastic checkered type, not the ribbed ones I have seen. Main reason for this is I right grip is a little loose even when the screw is tightened. I do not want to make it worse.

thanks again!!

Lugerdoc · 02-05-2003, 04:42 AM

Byron, I have new repro checkered black plastic (Black Widow) grips available @$25, plus several other types in the same price range. Give me a call for detail @ 636-447-3006. Tom H.

02-03-2003, 10:08 PM	#1
Bryon User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: CA Posts: 30 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Extractor issue? mainspring issue both? Ok, this may be a dumb question but I know there are experts out there that know the answer. New to me 41 BYF. Have not fired the pistol but it's acting different from my 1916 DWM so I thought I would ask. If you pull the toggle back to the first pivot point slowly the toggle stops and will not move forward unless I push it. Same holds true if I lower it slowly from a full cocked position. This is weird as my DWM slaps forward as soon as I let go from the same half cocked position. So I am wondering, weak mainspring OR, extractor. I stripped both pistols and found the BYF has much more friction when operating the toggle (nom mag in pistol) than the DWM. I also noticed the extractor seems to stick out more on the inside of the receiver or barrel extention. I used calipers to measure it and compared it to the DWM. the gap from the tip of the extractor to the opposite side of the receiver(inside)is as follows: DWM= .349 ByF= .367 After further inspection I am thinking the extractor is putting too much tension on the bolt and the main spring is too weak? Anyone what to take a shot at this one? Thanks

02-04-2003, 07:14 AM	#4
Lugerdoc Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: POB 398 St.Charles,MO. 63302 Posts: 5,089 Thanks: 6 Thanked 737 Times in 484 Posts	Byron, You are probably correct about the increase friction caused by the ejector on your Mauser PO8. There may also be a greater overlap of your firing pin and sear (trigger bar) on this model, which causes the toggle to stop when lowered slowly. This is more an individual pistol characteristic, than one of different manufacturors. I personally would not worry about it, so long as the pistol cocks and the toggle closes fully, when released from its maximum rearward position. Tom H. __________________ Tom Heller POB 398 ST.Charles, MO. 63302 Tel 636-447-3006 lugerdoc@charter.net

02-05-2003, 04:42 AM	#7
Lugerdoc Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: POB 398 St.Charles,MO. 63302 Posts: 5,089 Thanks: 6 Thanked 737 Times in 484 Posts	Byron, I have new repro checkered black plastic (Black Widow) grips available @$25, plus several other types in the same price range. Give me a call for detail @ 636-447-3006. Tom H. __________________ Tom Heller POB 398 ST.Charles, MO. 63302 Tel 636-447-3006 lugerdoc@charter.net

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

02-04-2003, 04:57 AM	#2
Frank RIP Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Hot & Dry PHX, AZ Posts: 2,078 Thanks: 24 Thanked 165 Times in 87 Posts	Bryon, I think you may mean Ejector, rather than Extractor. In any event, it could be a main spring, but . . . I would look at the alignment of the two sides of the receiver to make sure they are aligned. Take the rear toggle pin out, remove the toggle and bolt assembly, then put the rear toggle pin back in, without the toggle. It should slide right in, if the receiver is not warped. If it doesn't that may be the problem. Good Luck!!

02-04-2003, 06:55 AM	#3
Bryon User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: CA Posts: 30 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Yes, I was referring to the ejector, my mistake. I also did the test of taking the toggle out and replacing the rear pin, it went in fine. So too much tension the bolt from the Ejector and weak spring = my problem? Can the ejector be torqued back so there is less tension on the bolt, replaced, or grinding the end, or leave it alone? Is removing the ejector a gunsmith job? thanks.

02-04-2003, 05:01 PM	#5
Dwight Gruber User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 3,908 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1,330 Times in 435 Posts	Byron, The ejector is an extremely easy part to remove. That being said, I highly recommend against removing it (unless it is actually broken and you are replacing it) or modifying it in any way. It is a piece of spring steel with some bends and appendages, and can easily break. A recent survey has shown that it is the most commonly broken part, resulting from shooting. I think that Lugerdoc is on the money with his assessment. Also I have a Luger or two which do the same thing, the breech closes fully when released from maximum recoil, and there seems to be no problem in operating the pistol. So, don't worry, and enjoy it. --Dwight

02-04-2003, 08:44 PM	#6
Bryon User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: CA Posts: 30 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Ok I will leave it alone. Now where can I get some black replacement grips? I do not what to keep the original grips on the pistol. I would prefer the plastic checkered type, not the ribbed ones I have seen. Main reason for this is I right grip is a little loose even when the screw is tightened. I do not want to make it worse. thanks again!!