![]() |
my profile |
register |
faq |
search upload photo | donate | calendar |
![]() |
#1 |
User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Cave Creek
Posts: 327
Thanks: 65
Thanked 253 Times in 100 Posts
|
![]()
Hello,
Just spent 30 minutes composing my story here, only to have it dumped by the site when I went to prereview it. 5 paragraphs gone. Long story short, I need to glue 2 pieces of oily Cocobolo together. These are the grips that split on me for no GOOD reason; https://www.hogueinc.com/new-blackha...uero-coco-bolo Thanks in advance for any kind input ! |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Twice a Lifer
Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Atop the highest hill in Schuyler County NY
Posts: 3,388
Thanks: 7,476
Thanked 2,619 Times in 1,383 Posts
|
![]()
A successful glue joint starts out with both sides clean, which we'll presume both sides of your split are.
Remove any pieces of errant grain that were displaced by the trauma. The goal of this is to remove any barrier to a literal hairline crack remaining when testing its reassembly, and out-of-place slivers of wood will hinder this big-time. I think the choice of glue would be yours, from whatever formulas are recommended for wood by the various manufacturers. I'd go for either a waterproof wood glue or cyano acrylate gel, which gives sufficient working time. Gluing without clamping is a waste of time, so make yourself a setup that will squeeze everything together straight and true, as you want it. You want to see glue pushed from the hairline crack. Clean off the excess that's squished out so you can keep track of the crack, and whatever you can reach when the clamping is finished. The solvent dampening the rag/toothbrush should be whatever the glue's maker recommends. When revealed by un-clamping, cured glue that's where you don't want it may need to be removed mechanically--scraping/sanding. Refinish the grip, or at least blend in the area of the repair, if needed. That should do it. ![]()
__________________
"... Liberty is the seed and soil, the air and light, the dew and rain of progress, love and joy."-- Robert Greene Ingersoll 1894 |
![]() |
![]() |
The following 4 members says Thank You to ithacaartist for your post: |
![]() |
#3 |
Lifetime Forum
Patron Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Fairbanks, Alaska. Home of the best moose.
Posts: 677
Thanks: 374
Thanked 1,216 Times in 411 Posts
|
![]()
I'm fond of two part epoxies. To remove the oil, hit the surfaces of your repair with brake cleaner, and be sure to rub the epoxy into the wood, so it gets well into the grain. Then, as Ithacaartist said, clamp well, and remove any excess you can get to.
|
![]() |
![]() |
The following 3 members says Thank You to gunbugs for your post: |
![]() |
#4 |
User
Join Date: Apr 2022
Posts: 76
Thanks: 77
Thanked 91 Times in 38 Posts
|
![]()
I've had good luck using acetone to de-oil the two pieces to be joined together. Ithacaartist gives you good advice.
|
![]() |
![]() |
The following 3 members says Thank You to Deputywood for your post: |
![]() |
#5 |
User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Cave Creek
Posts: 327
Thanks: 65
Thanked 253 Times in 100 Posts
|
![]()
Thanks Guys ! Pretty much what I expected. I did read on some forum that Gorilla Glue was a decent choice.
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
User
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Wrong side of the Delaware river
Posts: 323
Thanks: 231
Thanked 464 Times in 183 Posts
|
![]()
Gorilla Glue expands when setting, not a good choice.
|
![]() |
![]() |
The following 4 members says Thank You to Kiwi for your post: |
![]() |
#7 |
Lifetime Forum
Patron Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Fairbanks, Alaska. Home of the best moose.
Posts: 677
Thanks: 374
Thanked 1,216 Times in 411 Posts
|
![]()
Here's one I was working on today. Buttstock from a Mossberg turkish import. About a 6" chunk broken out of the side of the grip. Brownells Acra-glas Epoxy, and several clamps. We'll se what it looks like tomorrow. I'm sure it'll need some cleanup.
https://forum.lugerforum.com/attachm...1&d=1754613138 https://forum.lugerforum.com/attachm...1&d=1754613138 |
![]() |
![]() |
The following 2 members says Thank You to gunbugs for your post: |
![]() |
#8 |
User
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Wrong side of the Delaware river
Posts: 323
Thanks: 231
Thanked 464 Times in 183 Posts
|
![]()
Surface preparation and clamping is the key, better clamping, better result
I used to have access to carbon tetrachloride for degreasing, but cant' get it now. Acetone works. |
![]() |
![]() |
The following 2 members says Thank You to Kiwi for your post: |
![]() |
#9 |
User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Cave Creek
Posts: 327
Thanks: 65
Thanked 253 Times in 100 Posts
|
![]()
I was mostly concerned about the type (brand name) of glue to use. Several of my search results remarked that Cocobolo was especially hard to glue since it was naturally a very oily wood.
Part of my dumped first attempt at posting this thread was that I bought the Hogue grips 6/6/24. Mounted on the pistol, put in a fleece lined case and put in the safe in my bedroom. Maybe it came out 2-3 times a month to show off when company came over. It was NEVER fired, dropped or abused. Just noticed the crack on it's last viewing. The grip still looks pristine, except for the crack. Hogue felt I had gotten my $$$ worth since I had it over a year. They GRACIOUSLY offer me a 25% discount on a fresh pair ![]() Hogue's Customer Service is anything but, IMHO ! |
![]() |
![]() |
The following member says Thank You to calibrator for your post: |
![]() |
#10 |
Super Moderator
Eternal Lifer LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: North of Spokane, WA
Posts: 15,968
Thanks: 2,066
Thanked 4,601 Times in 2,120 Posts
|
![]()
If you type slow or you like to make it perfect, write the original in word or other word processor and then copy and paste it here on the forum.
|
![]() |
![]() |
The following 2 members says Thank You to Edward Tinker for your post: |
![]() |
#11 |
Lifer
Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Winnipeg, Canada
Posts: 632
Thanks: 3,189
Thanked 1,068 Times in 437 Posts
|
![]()
Writing a long post only to have it accidentally 'delete' BEFORE you post it is maddening.
![]() I have done it several times. Now I press 'save' often, then post when done. ![]()
__________________
Whoever said that "money can't buy you happiness" never bought a Luger. WTB - Take Down Lever & Trigger Plate (#90) for an Imperial Artillery.
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
The following member says Thank You to spangy for your post: |
![]() |
#12 |
User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Cave Creek
Posts: 327
Thanks: 65
Thanked 253 Times in 100 Posts
|
![]()
They don't "accidently" delete, it's a feature of this site. I've been lurking here since '09, and don't recall it being an issue back when. I like to get up, get some coffee, go the bathroom, locate a link I want to add (I have 2 monitors) ... etc.
I usually get dropped when I click the preview button to see how it will actually look. I'm immediately asked to log in again, and when I do, I'm no longer at the point I was at, with no obvious way to navigate back to it. I guess Ed is right about Word, it just adds a layer I'd like to do without. |
![]() |
![]() |
The following member says Thank You to calibrator for your post: |
![]() |
#13 |
Twice a Lifer
Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Atop the highest hill in Schuyler County NY
Posts: 3,388
Thanks: 7,476
Thanked 2,619 Times in 1,383 Posts
|
![]()
Ed has discovered the way to avoid this mishap. I start out any posts that threaten to be extensive in a new email, then copy and paste the text to the actual post before I dump the email draft.
__________________
"... Liberty is the seed and soil, the air and light, the dew and rain of progress, love and joy."-- Robert Greene Ingersoll 1894 |
![]() |
![]() |
The following member says Thank You to ithacaartist for your post: |
![]() |
#14 |
User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Indiana
Posts: 27
Thanks: 0
Thanked 5 Times in 3 Posts
|
![]()
I used to make small music boxes with Cocobolo and gluing was pretty painful. It has a lot of oil in it and that makes it tough to glue. It also tends to warp as it dries out. This can cause cracks and splits usually along the grain. Using acetone or other solvents to remove the oil just creates a dried out area that is sure to crack at some point.
The best results I found were to let the wood dry well prior to doing anything with it. Once dry I set it up in a fixture to glue and used superglue after clamping. The thin superglue will wick into the joint if its tight. I also tried some of the new at the time gel superglue. It has to be applied prior to clamping but will fill gaps better. I do have one of the music boxes still that hasn't come apart in 20 or more years. Good luck with your repair. Cocobolo is not an easy material to deal with. That is why its usually used in small parts like knife grips or other simple one piece applications. Frank |
![]() |
![]() |
The following 2 members says Thank You to biffj for your post: |
![]() |
#15 |
User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Cave Creek
Posts: 327
Thanks: 65
Thanked 253 Times in 100 Posts
|
![]()
Sounds like if I want accident-free reliability, I should ditch the 1 piece grip and get a more conventional set-up. Too bad, they look great.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|