Toggle sticking open

[Military Engineer]

Ladies and gentlemen,

I think, I really think, it's FIXED. Several folks indicated a possible torqued fork from the rebarrel, but as the repair would show (or at least suggest), this pistol took an impact some time ago along the right "ear" on the frame--the part that serves to retain the rear toggle link pin (axle pin). I need help posting pix if anyone is interested. Here's what i think: The impact deformed the right ear a bit creating a high point inside where the fork slides. The ear does not yield when it cycles, the fork does, so the fork was being jammed against the toggle link. This would explain the wear pattern on the ejector and forks. The signature tight tolerances worked against the pistol here, because when I cycle the toggle it would take much more force that with GTs upper. Since the pistol has been doing this for a while, I think the fork developed a slight misalignment, which is why GTs upper was much harder to cycle and get the bolt out of(his is perfectly straight) but also explains why my toggle link fit so nicely into his upper and why mine jammed both bolts. Extremely minor, since all it took to force it back into battery was my thumb.

So here's what I did. As far as what triggered the original problem, I'm not sure, but if we have a thread that talks specifically about Luger issues, I'm hoping we can put this there for the next guy. Or gal...I'm not sexist.

So I decided to operate under the assumption that there was an interference fit, which was why it was fine until you pulled it all the way back where it stuck. I knew that GTs complete upper not only operated, but fit into the slide and operated perfectly. If I had a berrel, I would have gone out and shot it. But I digress. When I cycled it, there were some strange marks that only come from metal against metal and in places not normal. I am going to post pics, but I will need help to do it from someone here, as I am having a devil of a time getting it done. Unfortunaly, some will only show the repair work, as I didn't think to do before pics.

Anyway, I took the frame, the fork and the toggle train apart. I used a fine file to smooth out the "ears" of the frame (the high points that encapsulate the rear toggle pin in the fork) on the inside. It started out very, very rough. I also noticed that on the right ear, directly behind the toggle, it looks like it took a hit at one point in the past. The impact was in line to the ear, not perpendicular to it. It explains the high point inside. Mic-ing the parts revealed uneven measurements at the base of the ears and one side verses the other.

Next, I smooth filed the inside of the forks, at the rear where the rear toggle pin (axle pin) retains the rear half of the toggle link. I smooth filed about1/3 forward toward the chamber. There were some really high points and extremely rough machine tool marks, which could only be original. Much smoother now.

I used a fine file also on the insides of both of the grooves in which the breech block slides. I smooth filed them and also did it for a while to file down a smidgeon of material to open it up a bit...not more that 1/10,000 -- very fine file 20-30 times on each side.

Results? Smooth sliding surfaces now and there is no more sticking. The bolt snaps right back into battery, so the springs I just ordered may just be spares now. Bloody thing nearly took the tip of my finger when I got it back together because I wasn't expecting it to close that easily.

Now I really need to find someone who does blueing in SoCal.
Mark

[kurusu]

Just for the picture part. Click on the the paper clip icon. The manage attachement should open.

In the upload file from your computer part of the window click on select file.

It will open a new window at the bottom. Click on files.

Browse your computer for where you keep the pictures you want to insert.
Click on the picture you want to insert. And then on upload.

It's done.

[G.T.]

Hi to all! This complete thread is very good example of how difficult it is to track down a luger malfunction issue? And, it is kind of ironic, that the more you know, the harder it seems to be to find and fix the problem? My gut feeling was an interference at some point, but I've seen so many different problems at both ends, where do you start? Mark obviously has some talent, as he speaks the correct language for problem solving and repair procedures. But for most it is like a picture with no focus? The lessons to take away from this exercise are, in my view, many fold. But we will point out the most important...
First, go slow! Don't rush to alter something just because it seems as the right thing to do initially?
Second, test, substitute parts, establish a repair protocol and start eliminating potential hot spots!
Third, alter very little, only enough to correct and make what you believe should happen, happen?
Fourth and maybe most important, seek out info and help from others who have experience, parts and skills in the area of repair you are now entering!
This forum is a wealth of information, and a great bunch of members willing to share and help! Great fun for all I know of no other place like it... best to all, til....lat'r....GT...