barrel relining service?

sheepherder · 10-27-2019, 01:47 PM

You might want to consider silver soldering. The entire liner does not need to be soldered, just one end. For a short distance. Don't use anything from Brownell's; get the real thing from your local welding supply. True silver solder is expensive but also low temp and uses special flux. The metal never even darkens.

I've used stippling, threading, and heat shrinking/freezing on the P1 barrel liners. Pinning turned out the most feasible.

I never bothered with trying to re-line Luger barrels. Why bother when you can buy brand new barrels completely machined??? Collectors don't want re-lined Lugers. There's just no profit in it.

Mister Sunshine · 10-27-2019, 02:18 PM

A friend of mine wanted to make a target pistol out of a replica of the Remington 1858 cap & ball revolver. He found that the little cadet 310 Martini had the right size bore and twist and were plentiful in gun shops because so many had been converted to 357s and a #001 buckshot worked perfectly. He drilled out the barrel on the pistol and turned down the Martini barrel to match put Lock-Tite on it and pressed it in the revolver barrel, let it set over nite and he found he couldn't turn it with a pipe wrench. He had left a short piece of the insert for the test. Ho could get two pistol barrels out of one 310 barrel. He made up several and none ever shot loose. He was a great pistol shot and difficult to beat . I never did.

calibrator · 10-27-2019, 03:10 PM

Hey Friend,

When you speak of a clearance of .0015", than is the clearance I hone an exhaust valve guide to in relation to the valve stem dia.

There is a perceptible wobble of the valve when inserted into the guide. I don't think that is what you want. Using anything other than oil when pressing in a valve guide is frowned upon by "Experts" because it will hinder heat transfer from the guide into the head for dissipation.

If you use Loctite on a press fit, you better be pressing it together fast, because even a pause of a few seconds can allow the anaerobic to start and it will seize up.

Drill bits wander, even drilling an existing hole, especially over a distance of several inches. Forget about drilling from both ends, meeting in the middle, DOH !

Look at a "Piloted Core Drill Bit";

http://pacifictoolandgauge.com/33-pi...-drills-nopix-

The above is only an example (the 1st image I could access). It will faithfully follow the existing bore if you can get a proper sized pilot tip. There are some that will have a 90 degree cutting edge that would allow you to leave a square shelf as a stop at the muzzle end if you halted .060-.090" shy of breaking through. The ID of the hole left by the core drill determines the OD of your new barrel blank. Drill 1st, then size the barrel blank accordingly.

The Silver Solder is a good idea, because it would not be as notable as a step or a pin.

10-27-2019, 01:47 PM	#1
sheepherder Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: ...on the 'ol Erie Canal... Posts: 8,208 Thanks: 1,425 Thanked 4,474 Times in 2,343 Posts	You might want to consider silver soldering. The entire liner does not need to be soldered, just one end. For a short distance. Don't use anything from Brownell's; get the real thing from your local welding supply. True silver solder is expensive but also low temp and uses special flux. The metal never even darkens. I've used stippling, threading, and heat shrinking/freezing on the P1 barrel liners. Pinning turned out the most feasible. I never bothered with trying to re-line Luger barrels. Why bother when you can buy brand new barrels completely machined??? Collectors don't want re-lined Lugers. There's just no profit in it. __________________ I like my coffee the way I like my women... ...Cold and bitter...

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10-27-2019, 02:18 PM	#2
Mister Sunshine User Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Cherry Valley, Ca. Posts: 94 Thanks: 0 Thanked 29 Times in 20 Posts	A friend of mine wanted to make a target pistol out of a replica of the Remington 1858 cap & ball revolver. He found that the little cadet 310 Martini had the right size bore and twist and were plentiful in gun shops because so many had been converted to 357s and a #001 buckshot worked perfectly. He drilled out the barrel on the pistol and turned down the Martini barrel to match put Lock-Tite on it and pressed it in the revolver barrel, let it set over nite and he found he couldn't turn it with a pipe wrench. He had left a short piece of the insert for the test. Ho could get two pistol barrels out of one 310 barrel. He made up several and none ever shot loose. He was a great pistol shot and difficult to beat . I never did.

10-27-2019, 03:10 PM	#3
calibrator User Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Cave Creek Posts: 340 Thanks: 67 Thanked 271 Times in 108 Posts	Hey Friend, When you speak of a clearance of .0015", than is the clearance I hone an exhaust valve guide to in relation to the valve stem dia. There is a perceptible wobble of the valve when inserted into the guide. I don't think that is what you want. Using anything other than oil when pressing in a valve guide is frowned upon by "Experts" because it will hinder heat transfer from the guide into the head for dissipation. If you use Loctite on a press fit, you better be pressing it together fast, because even a pause of a few seconds can allow the anaerobic to start and it will seize up. Drill bits wander, even drilling an existing hole, especially over a distance of several inches. Forget about drilling from both ends, meeting in the middle, DOH ! Look at a "Piloted Core Drill Bit"; http://pacifictoolandgauge.com/33-pi...-drills-nopix- The above is only an example (the 1st image I could access). It will faithfully follow the existing bore if you can get a proper sized pilot tip. There are some that will have a 90 degree cutting edge that would allow you to leave a square shelf as a stop at the muzzle end if you halted .060-.090" shy of breaking through. The ID of the hole left by the core drill determines the OD of your new barrel blank. Drill 1st, then size the barrel blank accordingly. The Silver Solder is a good idea, because it would not be as notable as a step or a pin.