A 1800 Meter Luger !

[DonVoigt]

If you want to be really confused, measure the ramps on "original" barrels. They are not all the same; though one never knows when or how they "got" different angles and widths.

When I cut ramps for GT, I cut to the 50 degrees he likes; when I do them for myself, I go closer to 47. I find they feed better- or at least I've convinced my self that they do . JMHO.

Extractor cut at spec is not a big issue. I don't use the two key cutters; but a Round over cutter.
I do start the cut with a normal end mill, no use wearing out the cutter removing the first "big" cut.

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by DonVoigt

I don't use the two key cutters; but a Round over cutter.

Olle called my attention to a special cutter from Harvey Tool that he uses. I have their catalog, I'll see if I can find it.

Here we go...Corner rounding end mills...

http://www.harveytool.com/cat/Corner...ducts_200.aspx

Maybe if Olle sees this, he can say which one works best.

Originally Posted by DonVoigt

I don't use the two key cutters; but a Round over cutter.

I just use what I've got. The cutter from Harvey would cost more in postage than the cutter itself. Plus Harvey doesn't sell to the general public; you have to order from one of their distributors.

I have a couple of Harvey's keyseat cutters specifically for Luger front sight inserts, but they are fragile.

[Rick W.]

Old habits from behind the wall I guess, we were required to compare theoretical to actuals in my old real job.

I was not aware of that variation in Luger barrel ramps or top slots.
Might just spur me on to do some measurements out of morbid curiosity.

I dreamed once of having PTG on the west coast custom grind a tool for the top extractor slot, he at the time would do steel or carbide or the tipped stuff. I have not got there($$), but would be nice; carbide would last me my lifetime I can assure you. I still have some wildcat chambering to do on the Luger framework.

I try to minimize case non support at the top and bottom of the luger tenion, just the way I was taught and too old now to change. My first attempts were with two straight mills and a touch with a file; back in the older than dirt routines huh? Things change over time............some.

I have seen nice work done by a skilled guy with files for both operations, but he had tenure sorta speak..........and the touch which I never got figured out, he made it look so easy; he was really gifted.

I am one of the use what I got guys too, but there has been times when the right tool would have saved some grey.

Tis always neat to hear how folks approach a task with these pistols, there is always room to get better I think. I still have the curiosity about such things, so thanks a lot to everyone for their time to post.

[DonVoigt]

Originally Posted by sheepherder

Olle called my attention to a special cutter from Harvey Tool that he uses. I have their catalog, I'll see if I can find it.

Here we go...Corner rounding end mills...

http://www.harveytool.com/cat/Corner...ducts_200.aspx

Maybe if Olle sees this, he can say which one works best.



I just use what I've got. The cutter from Harvey would cost more in postage than the cutter itself. Plus Harvey doesn't sell to the general public; you have to order from one of their distributors.

I have a couple of Harvey's keyseat cutters specifically for Luger front sight inserts, but they are fragile.

Ollie gave me the number a couple years ago.
I bought two different ones, from China via Ebay, much cheaper.
You just have to do some searching and measuring.

Takes moving the cutter side to side to get the correct width with the correct radius.

The key cutters are fine , if you are not selling the barrels and want them to look like originals- as GT does.

I have a really small dovetail cutter for the sight base. They are really easy to break.

[Olle]

Originally Posted by sheepherder

Olle called my attention to a special cutter from Harvey Tool that he uses. I have their catalog, I'll see if I can find it.

Here we go...Corner rounding end mills...

http://www.harveytool.com/cat/Corner...ducts_200.aspx

Maybe if Olle sees this, he can say which one works best.



I just use what I've got. The cutter from Harvey would cost more in postage than the cutter itself. Plus Harvey doesn't sell to the general public; you have to order from one of their distributors.

I have a couple of Harvey's keyseat cutters specifically for Luger front sight inserts, but they are fragile.

Here's the one I use: http://www.harveytool.com/ToolTechIn...olNumber=17062. I run it to the correct depth, then I widen the cut 10/1000" left/light (total 20/1000"). It's probably as close as you will get to the correct shape without custom ordering, and it gives you an original looking cut and the proper clearance for the extractor.... or at least I haven't heard otherwise from GT.

I'm sure you can find a cheaper tool from China, but the cool thing about Harvey's catalog (as opposed to eBay) is that they have a plethora of diameters and shapes to choose from and the tools are top quality. The 17062 cutter is very close to specs, and should last longer than the Chinese bits as well. Tiny bits like this (especially in carbide) chatter and break easily when they start going dull, and it normally happens A: Friday afternoon and B: When you have a deadline to meet. IMO it pays off to buy good quality if your'e planning to do several barrels.

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by Olle

Here's the one I use: http://www.harveytool.com/ToolTechIn...olNumber=17062. I run it to the correct depth, then I widen the cut 10/1000" left/light (total 20/1000").

Excellent! I had written it down when Olle told me about it but when I received Harvey's latest catalog, I tossed the old one - With the note about the cutter.

FWIW, the dovetail cutter I use for Luger front sights is Harvey's # 28512, 3/16" x 40º carbide 2-flute dovetail cutter -

http://www.harveytool.com/ToolTechIn...olNumber=28512

[pitsword]

Rich, you never cease to amaze. Salute

[sheepherder]

I'll be waiting four to six weeks for the 'Swedish Luger' to come back and I can start assembling it. Until then, I have a shelf full of projects.

One was a 1911 parts kit with an FN M1911 slide in 38ACP that was so tight it wouldn't slide on the receiver. I've lapped slides in in the far past [80's] and still have the three grades of 'lapping compound' left. So, I made up a handy slide attachment and a magazine well reinforcement and lapped the FN slide in. (In those halcyon years of yore I would use my bare hands. I still have the scars). First valve grinding compound, then polishing compound, then rubbing compound. You 'saw' the tool back & forth like sawing wood. Now the slide glides as slick as grubs through a goose.

(I've had to do this with a parts Luger too. Same principle).

I'll function test this one when I can get some range time again.