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#1 |
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: near Charlotte NC
Posts: 4,681
Thanks: 1,443
Thanked 4,355 Times in 2,041 Posts
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Thanks Rick for the loctite info.
Using a threaded pin, adds unnecessary complexity to an already delicate job; and increases the chance for failure- like breaking a very small hardened tap in a very small hole, leaving a near impossible removal issue. I used a 1/16" drill bit, cut to length for the pin, since it was already hardened and should last as well or better than the material of the original block. If you screw up a pin, as you say - drive it out and put in another; doesn't get much simpler than that. If I could weld worth shucks, I would have welded it! Sure there are lots of ways to skin a cat, I just like to get it fixed and move on. No need to over complicate things. JMHO.
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03man(Don Voigt); Luger student and collector. Looking for DWM side plate: 69 ; Dreyse 1907 pistol K.S. Gendarmerie |
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#2 |
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 339
Thanks: 81
Thanked 359 Times in 198 Posts
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One of my many faults is that I like detail. The more, the better. Overthink, overdo, never happens.
I suspect that we could talk about the choice of mudflaps for the old truck until the cows come home. Guess to me, it is pretty marvelous that someone in the past did take the time to come up with the piin in the breechblock routine, fairly well mechanically supported, and is a good alternative to welding. I cannot weld either, but have cousins that can. We all know about choices in tap material, all comes into play in certain situations. I have come to disdain a little, the good stout red loctite stuff, so many messed up scope mounts put in with that stuff, painful it is to repair..........well at least time consuming. Environment is everything. Likewise, not much is really new in the gun business. So it goes. I hope that Rickybill will chime in on occasion with a report on how his breechblock is holding up. |
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