DWM Shooter Refresh

4 Scale · 10-11-2017, 02:48 PM

I agree this pistol looks fine as is for a shooter. The fundamental issue we all face on restoring pistols is, the restoration expense can drive the total investment beyond what a good to very good original would cost.

In fire bluing parts, I have found the trick is to heat them slowly. There are some useful youtube videos that explain it, many people including me use brass shavings or a brass fixture (bar) to help apply heat slowly and evenly. If I go too fast heating the part, I speed through the bright fire blue color before I can quench the item.

If you overheat a part, cool it, sand off the dark finish and then try again. Be very careful when handling a greatly overheated part as they can be be quite brittle. By definition if you achieve the fire blue color you have achieved the proper temper.

On those tight pins, when the press doesn't work try starter punches (Brownells et al). Personally when I use starter punches I typically also build a fixture from hardwood scrap to hold the part while I am beating the pin with a hammer.

You might consider applying Renaissance Wax, I've found it makes old re-blues look a bit more original. It can be removed if you don't like the look.

milesc2 · 10-11-2017, 04:28 PM

Just ordered some Renaissance Wax thanks for the suggestion.
I will try to punch out the pins with a starter punch. If that dosen't work I may just leave it be.
Maybe Tom H would tear it down if I mailed it to him?

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10-11-2017, 02:48 PM	#1
4 Scale User Join Date: Nov 2014 Posts: 544 Thanks: 194 Thanked 490 Times in 251 Posts	I agree this pistol looks fine as is for a shooter. The fundamental issue we all face on restoring pistols is, the restoration expense can drive the total investment beyond what a good to very good original would cost. In fire bluing parts, I have found the trick is to heat them slowly. There are some useful youtube videos that explain it, many people including me use brass shavings or a brass fixture (bar) to help apply heat slowly and evenly. If I go too fast heating the part, I speed through the bright fire blue color before I can quench the item. If you overheat a part, cool it, sand off the dark finish and then try again. Be very careful when handling a greatly overheated part as they can be be quite brittle. By definition if you achieve the fire blue color you have achieved the proper temper. On those tight pins, when the press doesn't work try starter punches (Brownells et al). Personally when I use starter punches I typically also build a fixture from hardwood scrap to hold the part while I am beating the pin with a hammer. You might consider applying Renaissance Wax, I've found it makes old re-blues look a bit more original. It can be removed if you don't like the look.

10-11-2017, 04:28 PM	#2
milesc2 User Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Kansas City Posts: 214 Thanks: 328 Thanked 249 Times in 66 Posts	Just ordered some Renaissance Wax thanks for the suggestion. I will try to punch out the pins with a starter punch. If that dosen't work I may just leave it be. Maybe Tom H would tear it down if I mailed it to him?